Finally got the FMIC on and the car got slower!
#21
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Originally Posted by BOOSTAT4500
My front mount is finally done! I ended up using the Vortech Mondo bypass valve. Unfortunetly, my boost droped about 2 lbs. and the car runs 2mph slower ( according to G-tech and seat of the pants ) in the quarter. Anyone else experienced this? Also, where can I get a smaller 8-rib blower pulley? I have the 3.4 ATI right now and was told thats the smallest they make. I currently see about 8 psi of boost.
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I got the boost pressure back up, the by-pass valve needed to be adjusted despite what Vortech told me. The pressure is now back at what it was before, 10psi. We threw the car on a dyno and the first pull was down 45rwhp from before. However, it was way rich, so I turned the fuel pressure down a little as a temporary fix and the power came back and then some. My old best was 635 and it did 641 with tires spinning at 5500rpm. So I don't know what the actual power is now. I'm getting it re-tuned this week hopefully and I'll post results. As far people seeing a boost increase with a FMIC, I think it's from the aftermarket blow off valve they use ( that don't leak) vs. the ones that come with the ATI kit, and not the intercooler itself. The ATI BOV's leak really bad so they won't hold high pressure.
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
im with frcefed,got the OBX one yesterday and the pressure drop is rated to only .2 psi at 15#'s.check piping like they said and check the tune.
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Hey, I'm glad you found and fixed the problem. It's always something, ain't it?
But here's some basics. I've got some IC background and I'll tell you for sure the IC is an additional restriction that, if you don't do anything else but add it, will use up about 1-2 psi. Just for S&G, imagine a 10' long pipe from the blower output to the TB. Now take out about 2' in the middle and add a double S-shaped 6' piece of slightly smaller diameter. What do you think the boost will do?
Here's the deal, the psi at the blower outlet will stay exactly the same (the wastegate setting - unless it's referenced to MAP), but the psi at the TB will drop. If the charge is cooled on top of that, there's less volume (and psi) at the TB than at the blower outlet because of the temp drop. The charge has got the same amount of oxygen molecules, just in a smaller space. The "goodness" of the IC comes with running the same or higher (!) boost at the TB (adjust the wastegate setting) on a cooler charge with less or 0 knock. In my experience, if you add intercooling, the boost drops and you add timing and you gain power. If knock will let you, add timing AND increase boost readings to what they were before and you gain even more power! Boost is not HP! Boost is one of about 3 basic ways to add HP, timing's another for instance, proper AFR is another. They all have to work together. This all assumes almost no knock!
I hope that makes sense, it's true.
But here's some basics. I've got some IC background and I'll tell you for sure the IC is an additional restriction that, if you don't do anything else but add it, will use up about 1-2 psi. Just for S&G, imagine a 10' long pipe from the blower output to the TB. Now take out about 2' in the middle and add a double S-shaped 6' piece of slightly smaller diameter. What do you think the boost will do?
Here's the deal, the psi at the blower outlet will stay exactly the same (the wastegate setting - unless it's referenced to MAP), but the psi at the TB will drop. If the charge is cooled on top of that, there's less volume (and psi) at the TB than at the blower outlet because of the temp drop. The charge has got the same amount of oxygen molecules, just in a smaller space. The "goodness" of the IC comes with running the same or higher (!) boost at the TB (adjust the wastegate setting) on a cooler charge with less or 0 knock. In my experience, if you add intercooling, the boost drops and you add timing and you gain power. If knock will let you, add timing AND increase boost readings to what they were before and you gain even more power! Boost is not HP! Boost is one of about 3 basic ways to add HP, timing's another for instance, proper AFR is another. They all have to work together. This all assumes almost no knock!
I hope that makes sense, it's true.
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Gez I hate reading something like this. I have been looking for a while now at taking off my vortech aftercooler and putting on a FMIC since I drive the car on the street alot. Let me know how everything turns out before I go spending all this money!
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Originally Posted by SSprayn
Gez I hate reading something like this. I have been looking for a while now at taking off my vortech aftercooler and putting on a FMIC since I drive the car on the street alot. Let me know how everything turns out before I go spending all this money!
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Yep, a more efficient IC will cause a drop in pressure at the TB due to the denser/cooler air. The IC does induce some drop too due to restriction. Some of the STS guys saw similar issues when installing the IC until they changed the wastegate tap location downwind of the IC so it saw the "reduced" pressure.
Ever notice how your tire pressure is lower when the outside temp drops? Same idea. The air did not escape, it just got denser. This is why you should always check your tire pressure with the tire cold as it could give you an incorrect reading.
Ever notice how your tire pressure is lower when the outside temp drops? Same idea. The air did not escape, it just got denser. This is why you should always check your tire pressure with the tire cold as it could give you an incorrect reading.
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Jesus is anything good on the ATI kit besides the head unit? It seems like everyone loves these kits but throws everyhting away except the head and replaces the parts with afteremarket or custom stuff. LOL
Go ATI! Hahaha
Go ATI! Hahaha