mulletwearingtadrive

iTrader: (10)

if i ran a vortech would i have to do anything to my hood? i have a stock hood on a non ws6 TA

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Well I can't remember for sure but look on there website and look at the installation instructions and it will tell you for sure, but I think it asks you to relieve one of the underhood metal braces that go across. I think they tell you to use a rubber malet for about 1/2 an inch or so. But you better double check for sure I know it wasn't nearly as involved as my SS hood and a Ram air hood doesn't get touched and they are supposedly worth another 10-15HP I think. You can download the instructions right off the internet so you can see what is involved. I am sure I could do it in about 8hrs or so. Good luck. Let me know if I can help answer any of your questions.
Jeff

tici

iTrader: (1)

No need to touch the hood in a TA.
My install has been much looooonger than the Jeff's 8 hours, but it was my first Vortech
Right now I run the non intercooled kit with water-alcohol injection: maybe an alternative to the intercooled (and most expensive) kit (see my homepage). Using the water-alcohol injection you can use a smaller pulley, lean out the mix and run more timing. I've just started the WI tuning and it's amazing how it works! No intercooler can do the same
The oil goes first through an Amsoil bypass filter: this should keep every kind of dirt away from your SC. This about the "bad Vortech lubrication".
So far I'm happy with it: the kit wasn't perfect, but much much nicer than the ATI's I saw on the web. If you live in a cold area you should better go with a straigh cut gears. The SQ is much quiter, but doesn't like low temperatures.

Bryan Wilkinson

iTrader: (1)

I knew this was coming the moment I typed it.
The reason that GM used the spring tensioner was because they wanted to extend the life of the serpentine belt. The belt flexes and stretches over time, so the tensioner keeps the belt tight as the belt wears. It was not ment to be used in the fashion SDCE is using it. A serpentine belt is not under the same load that the blower is in F-Bodies. The blower belt is much tighter.

And yes, Bracket flex is the one and only problem with using the aluminum bracket. Changing over to a steel bracket and manual tensioner is all anyone will every need with regards to using a ATI supercharger. Anyone who ever swapped from the Aluminum to the steel bracket knows exactly what I am talking about.

I think the SDCE pulley is very nice, but unnecessary. That is an opinion only.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Hey Tici how have you been? I think they are asking you to relieve the hood for clearance of the aftercooler and since you don't have one I am sure you didn't have to. You are right abouth the alky/meth injection kits working just as good for cooling air temps and killing detanation. Vortech has had some people that had dirts or debri clog up the oiling portion of there kit and killing the fron bearing that is what tici is talking about I think. I haven't had any issues as I am meticulous with my installs, but the filter he metioned is an option for security. Where is you homepage tici?

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Never mind I found it LOL!

JohnnieMo

Never got over 7psi when it was dyno'd. I could do a new pulley and get some more out of it, but I'm quite pleased with it now. All the curves are perfect... again - thanks to a good tune.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Hi Inpector! Nono, the aftercooler is not an issuer for the Trans Am, only for the Camaro, especially if it has the SS hood.
It's tight anyway under the hood and you have to be careful to keep the components as low as possibe. I have an aftermarket hood but inside it looks same as the stock.
I installed the bypass filter as suggested by Greg Carroll (carrollsupercharging.com). It's standard in his kits and I really think it's not an exageration.
I answered at your PM... to be continued

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

How much is that filter setup? It just goes inline from the discharge of the oil filter to that filter to the blower unit? I just cleaned the hell out of the screen that is inline going into the G trim.

tici

iTrader: (1)

The filter costed me $26 and the holder $35.
Hoses and connections are hydraulic parts I "find" in our maintenance workshop.
The bracket is just a bent steel sheet. It fits fine there because there's an hole in the body to fit a wrench and tighten the bolts.
Yes, the line comes from the stock oil filter then goes to the blower.
Strange you find dirt in the screen... the oil from the filter is supposed to be clean!
The filter is an Amsoil BE-90 bypass filter, here a description:

"Approximately 60 percent of all engine wear is caused by dirt particles in the 5 to 20 micron range. These particles can get inside the precision clearances between engine components and cause severe damage. While full-flow oil filters generally stop contaminants no smaller than 25 to 40 microns, the AMSOIL By-Pass Filter effectively stops particles smaller than one micron in size, substantially reducing engine wear."

I can't go there and count the 1 microns particles, but I guess it's not wrong to install the filter

The filter should be fine for 10'000 Miles.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Yeah the filter is probably a good idea Stefano. I'll just have to wait a little while I am working on a few other aspects of my setup and don't want to get sidetracked. Looks real good though. I'll talk with you later about the other stuff.
Jeff