Head gasket - where'd I go wrong and where do I go from here?
#21
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Here's the timing portion:
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#22
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by John_D.
I'll send you my current tune, and you can sanity check it for me, before I make any other changes to it... ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
If you only modified the last two rows then that was your problem since on 6 psi you will not reach those areas. The entire tune needs to be setup so that you have almost no knock ever.
#23
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Zombie
If you only modified the last two rows then that was your problem since on 6 psi you will not reach those areas. The entire tune needs to be setup so that you have almost no knock ever.
I (apparently mistakenly) thought 0 vacuum (0 boost) was the bottom row, and boost was somewhere off beyond that line.
About how high up in the table do I need to go? Halfway? Bottom 6 rows? Somewhere in between? I don't mind taking too much out too far up in the table, as long as the engine survives long enough for me to figure out where I can put it back in later...
#24
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by John_D.
Here's the timing portion:
25 29 29 29 36 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
24 29 29 29 36 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
22 29 29 29 36 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
21 29 29 29 36 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
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25 29 29 29 36 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
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#26
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by John_D.
I did a v6 to v8 swap last summer.
Ran strong na, 390rwhp at TEA's dyno when they were still down here.
12.1 at 113 mph in the 1/4. Drove it on the street, no problem. 2500 miles on it.
Put an STS turbo on it. Finished the install last weekend.
Drove it around the subdivision yesterday morning to warm it up, make sure nothing was loose, rubbing, etc.
After work yesterday, took it out on the highway for it's maiden voyage. Warmed it up in the driveway first. After 1/2 mile of driving, I went about half throttle for a moment, and saw 2 psi briefly. So far so good.
After one mile of driving, I nailed it in 3rd gear (auto). 5 psi for about 2-3 seconds, then POOF and big cloud of white smoke. Missing, power was down. Nursed it back home, white smoke every time I was on the gas. After I let it cool, check the vital signs. A little water in the oil. Can't see the water in the radiator. Sounds like head gasket to me. Haven't pulled the plugs yet.
I used ARP head studs, and had the heads o-ringed. Went through 3 stud stretch cycles, then a final torque, in GM sequence each time. Stock pistons. 5.7 heads (TEA - slightly milled, but opened a little too, so net effect on compression should be zero). Stock graphite gasket. 224/228 .581/.588 115 cam. 11:1 a/f according to the LM1. 15 degrees timing. New TR6 plugs at .035.
Why did it let go on the first wot pass, and at only 5 psi?
If I don't find any damage other than the gasket, other than replace the gasket, what else can I do to prevent it from happening again?
I thought studs and o-rings were overkill already.
Different gasket material maybe?
Ran strong na, 390rwhp at TEA's dyno when they were still down here.
12.1 at 113 mph in the 1/4. Drove it on the street, no problem. 2500 miles on it.
Put an STS turbo on it. Finished the install last weekend.
Drove it around the subdivision yesterday morning to warm it up, make sure nothing was loose, rubbing, etc.
After work yesterday, took it out on the highway for it's maiden voyage. Warmed it up in the driveway first. After 1/2 mile of driving, I went about half throttle for a moment, and saw 2 psi briefly. So far so good.
After one mile of driving, I nailed it in 3rd gear (auto). 5 psi for about 2-3 seconds, then POOF and big cloud of white smoke. Missing, power was down. Nursed it back home, white smoke every time I was on the gas. After I let it cool, check the vital signs. A little water in the oil. Can't see the water in the radiator. Sounds like head gasket to me. Haven't pulled the plugs yet.
I used ARP head studs, and had the heads o-ringed. Went through 3 stud stretch cycles, then a final torque, in GM sequence each time. Stock pistons. 5.7 heads (TEA - slightly milled, but opened a little too, so net effect on compression should be zero). Stock graphite gasket. 224/228 .581/.588 115 cam. 11:1 a/f according to the LM1. 15 degrees timing. New TR6 plugs at .035.
Why did it let go on the first wot pass, and at only 5 psi?
If I don't find any damage other than the gasket, other than replace the gasket, what else can I do to prevent it from happening again?
I thought studs and o-rings were overkill already.
Different gasket material maybe?
I don't know about LS1's but on any other engine that was O-Ringed we always used copper head gaskets. Also check the block and heads to make sure they're strait.
Good luck!
#28
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
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This is one of my older high octane tables before my car was intercooled. This is more what your timing should look like. You need to pull timing where peak tq gets high due to that being where highest cyl pressure is and detonation is most likely. After that you can slowly start adding timing back in. This was with a 224/224/112 cam, stock motor 91 octane in las vegas on a 67 turbo. This should give you a better idea ow what you need to do.
After intercooling I was able to increase my timing a little, but vegas is a tough town for a FI vehicle, 115 summer temps
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This is one of my older high octane tables before my car was intercooled. This is more what your timing should look like. You need to pull timing where peak tq gets high due to that being where highest cyl pressure is and detonation is most likely. After that you can slowly start adding timing back in. This was with a 224/224/112 cam, stock motor 91 octane in las vegas on a 67 turbo. This should give you a better idea ow what you need to do.
After intercooling I was able to increase my timing a little, but vegas is a tough town for a FI vehicle, 115 summer temps
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#29
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One other difference, I see your table has 29 rows, compared to my 24 rows, so your table goes 5 rows deeper than mine. When I run out of table, you still have 5 rows left to go...
Looks like my 15 degrees should have been in the last 8-10 rows, instead of just the last 2 rows.
Looks like my 15 degrees should have been in the last 8-10 rows, instead of just the last 2 rows.
#31
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Originally Posted by bryson
It's good that the headgasket was the weak link there -- All you need to do is replace the gasket and tune some. It could have been much worse! Keep us posted!
--Bryson
--Bryson
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
#32
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Well, looks like the gasket didn't save me after all. Pulled the plugs. On the passenger side, one wet clean one. On the driver's side, 2 wet dirty ones.... These were brand new plugs right before the incident.
Pulled the drivers side head, and I'm missing some piston.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...dium/3and5.jpg
Pulled the drivers side head, and I'm missing some piston.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...dium/3and5.jpg
Last edited by John_D.; 05-01-2005 at 08:56 AM.
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Originally Posted by nojdrof
I don't know about LS1's but on any other engine that was O-Ringed we always used copper head gaskets. Also check the block and heads to make sure they're strait.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#34
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I figured you hurt a piston.
Originally Posted by John_D.
Well, looks like the gasket didn't save me after all. Pulled the plugs. On the passenger side, one wet clean one. On the driver's side, 2 wet dirty ones.... These were brand new plugs right before the incident.
Pulled the drivers side head, and I'm missing some piston.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...dium/3and5.jpg
![](http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/data/500/medium/3and5.jpg)
Pulled the drivers side head, and I'm missing some piston.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...dium/3and5.jpg
![](http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/data/500/medium/3and5.jpg)
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Originally Posted by bryson
It's good that the headgasket was the weak link there -- All you need to do is replace the gasket and tune some. It could have been much worse! Keep us posted!
--Bryson
--Bryson
Last edited by BrentB@TEA; 05-01-2005 at 01:01 PM.
#36
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Yeah, it doesn't look like the gasket on this side did let go... Maybe it did on the other side. From what I see so far, the o-ring's did the trick. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Brent, I have little aluminum bits deposited in those chambers and on the valves. I'm wondering if that stuff is going to be on the seats too? Or if the piston pieces could have hurt the chamber (cracked it?) Do you think I ought to send you the heads and let you check them out and clean 'em up again?
And... do you think these heads could be suitable for a SDPC 402, or do I need to be thinking about upsizing the heads? I'm still thinking turbo too.... (as far as compression ratio, etc.)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Brent, I have little aluminum bits deposited in those chambers and on the valves. I'm wondering if that stuff is going to be on the seats too? Or if the piston pieces could have hurt the chamber (cracked it?) Do you think I ought to send you the heads and let you check them out and clean 'em up again?
And... do you think these heads could be suitable for a SDPC 402, or do I need to be thinking about upsizing the heads? I'm still thinking turbo too.... (as far as compression ratio, etc.)
#37
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by John_D.
Yeah, it doesn't look like the gasket on this side did let go... Maybe it did on the other side. From what I see so far, the o-ring's did the trick. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Brent, I have little aluminum bits deposited in those chambers and on the valves. I'm wondering if that stuff is going to be on the seats too? Or if the piston pieces could have hurt the chamber (cracked it?) Do you think I ought to send you the heads and let you check them out and clean 'em up again?
And... do you think these heads could be suitable for a SDPC 402, or do I need to be thinking about upsizing the heads? I'm still thinking turbo too.... (as far as compression ratio, etc.)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Brent, I have little aluminum bits deposited in those chambers and on the valves. I'm wondering if that stuff is going to be on the seats too? Or if the piston pieces could have hurt the chamber (cracked it?) Do you think I ought to send you the heads and let you check them out and clean 'em up again?
And... do you think these heads could be suitable for a SDPC 402, or do I need to be thinking about upsizing the heads? I'm still thinking turbo too.... (as far as compression ratio, etc.)
On a larger engine I think you need a larger head. I would not be surprised if you bent a few valves. I lost a piston on my car a long time ago and it looked like yours. I had a couple of bent valves.
I doubt they are cracked. But you should for sure have a valve job done on them.