rebuilding an engine to compliment my sts kit. with goals of 650 whp/tq. (made 505/561@8psi on stock ls1).. just looking for input on this setup, as im trying to piece one together for summer as my engine just blew. on a budget

my LS1 block bored .030 over, stock ls1 crank, forged rods and pistons, turbo cam, 241 casting heads with good springs, and possibly worked vavles.

i know its kind of vague, but im basically wondering if this general setup would hold up to the pressures of 650 hp/tq. im hoping i can do this on 10-12 psi. im frantically piecing this together, but need to have the right setup for the money i spend. ive looked through all the sponsers 123453452x's, but just cant put anything together. also would appreciate input for best bang for buck on rods and pistons.

i was considering iron block, just dunno if i have the money. if anyone knows of an assembled iron shortblock setup for boost, and 650+whp, please lemme kno

lookin to spend 6k or less for this buildup

 

well first i dont think you can bore an ls1 .030 over, think you can just do .010

eagle rods and diamond pistons will probably suite you best.
might call speed inc and ask about there sportsman block, they can do a short with forged internals setup for boost.

 

Easy. Lingenfelter has their budget ls1 shrt block for 2,xxx. That includes forged 10:1 pistons, forged rods, and a modified stock crank all balanced and blueprinted and assembled by lingenfelter. They can give you a credit for the high(10:1) forged pistons and you can have them replaced with low compression pistons that are suited for boost.

That is what I did. I have a stock displacement ls1(aluminum block) with JE Forged pistons, lunati rods, and there gt2-3 cam which is better suited for the turbo's than a stock cam. They wont charge you for any additional labor for swapping to the lower compression pistons and lunati rods since they were were going to have to tear into the block anyway. Also with the cam they will install it and degree it for free when you buy the cam and a new gm timing chain. I even got the head gaskets from there. It cost me 5,800 for everything. If you skip the cam and timing set it should save you about 500 for a total of 5,300. You would have got a core return of 800 for your stock motor but obviously it blew up.

A lot of people are going to say you can get everything cheaper, which you can. But when it comes to forced induction, get the best. I could have got all the above using diamond pistons and cheaper rods through another company for around 3,500. Then you have to take into account that the diamond pistons have some quality control issues and If you have odd luck like me and you get a dud, you are right back where you started. It's up to you. I still have the stock heads though and at 14 #'s of boost on my incon kit I made 620 rwhp and 640rwtq with aftermarket heads(afr's or all pro's) I am sure I will make over 650 at the wheels on pump gas.

 

Off topic but how did you blow your motor?

 

Ditto!!Very good prices for good parts. With diamond rings, cometic gaskets and arp studs my bottom end ran me around $2600 fully asssembled (heads to oil pan.
Call ls1speed, tbyrne or thunder racing. They all stock those parts and usually have some kind of deal going on them.


I've never heard about Diamond having any quality control problems. They've been doing great in my car now for 1.5 years. There are a lot of people running those pistons with plenty of power with no problems.

 

The diamond pistons I saw had some metal pieces left over from the machining process. I went through them with a wire brush and all was good. I really liked the oil control rings they came with. Holding up great to some n2o, and that motor has the eagle rods also. Thats the route I would go for that power level.

 

Pistons I would go with either Diamond or Mahle, both companies make an excellent LS1 pistons
Rods I would go with Callies or Eagle H beams
Cometic head gaskets
All ARP studs, top and bottom end, and good clevite or federal mogul bearings