crank??
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,492
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From: Back in the Burg
crank?? I was talking to sdce about prices and questions today and she asked me if I had or was going to key my crank for the ati d1 kit. This is a stock crank by the way. Answer NO I didn't and I dont want to pull the moter if I dont have to. Is this a must? How many of you are running 10# to 12# of boost with out the crank being keyed? I am looking for 6 to 650 RWHP. I did a search and didnt come up with any clear answers I read about pinning the crank, and she mentioned that option too. Any imput on this would be great. Thanks in advance.
I never understood keying a crank. Is it a issue where the bolts that hold it on actually shear off and the the crank pully falls off? That just seems tough to believe. If the supercharger was turning on and off so that it could drop like a clutch on the bolts then i would understand. GL mate
John
John
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,492
Likes: 6
From: Back in the Burg
[QUOTE=99SS-T]I never understood keying a crank. Is it a issue where the bolts that hold it on actually shear off and the the crank pully falls off? That just seems tough to believe. If the supercharger was turning on and off so that it could drop like a clutch on the bolts then i would understand. GL mate
Keying the crank would keep the pully from spinning on the crank. This would require me to remove my crank and have a keyway milled into the snout. Which i dont want to do if I dont have to. Will pinning The snout be enuff or will drilling the holes weaken the crank.
Keying the crank would keep the pully from spinning on the crank. This would require me to remove my crank and have a keyway milled into the snout. Which i dont want to do if I dont have to. Will pinning The snout be enuff or will drilling the holes weaken the crank.
Last edited by conan; Jun 7, 2005 at 08:12 AM.
keying crank Just pin it. I used the horizontal "from the front" pinning kit that ati sells, I used two pins. You need a new bolt, you cant reuse the stocker. I think the ati newest ones are all the correct length, and use the high strength loctite on it liberally. I used sleeve retaining locktite on the pins also, and i have no problems ever. I put an index line on the pully and bolt and it never moves at all. I would also slightly touch up the arms on the pully so the pully pins all touch the arms, but go slow and be careful as you dont want to remove only enough to make them all contact evenly. If i ever go forged crank i will key it and get the ati superdamper. Its not necessary at 11 lbs or under, mabee even more but i cant say from experience..But if you can afford it now,"the damper that is" i would do it, as its very smooth harmonically, and because of that, it frees up a parasitical amount of hp, and its good for motor longevity.
Less vibration. The stock crank is strong enough to pin twice at 180 degrees apart with no problems, many have done it for years, be carefull to not drill too deep, when pinning. The horizontal pin kit i bought might have been from Tbyrne i cant remember??
Less vibration. The stock crank is strong enough to pin twice at 180 degrees apart with no problems, many have done it for years, be carefull to not drill too deep, when pinning. The horizontal pin kit i bought might have been from Tbyrne i cant remember??
Last edited by BOONE; Jun 8, 2005 at 08:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,492
Likes: 6
From: Back in the Burg
Thanks boone. I have been reading posts in this section for about 4 months trying to to get all my homework in. Talking with spce yesterday was the first I read about this.
