Block ????
I would stay aluminum block. The iron block is not needed.
As far as replacing the crank that is a call your going to have to make. If your staying near 700 then I wouldn't think twice about it. My stock shortblock lived at that level for a season and was perfectly fine when dissasembled. Now if your going for 1000RWHP then you want to consider a crank. Although I stayed with the stock crank and will hit 1000rwhp shortly.
Like Matt said I don't recommend this though.
W2W will take care of ya.
As far as replacing the crank that is a call your going to have to make. If your staying near 700 then I wouldn't think twice about it. My stock shortblock lived at that level for a season and was perfectly fine when dissasembled. Now if your going for 1000RWHP then you want to consider a crank. Although I stayed with the stock crank and will hit 1000rwhp shortly.
Like Matt said I don't recommend this though.
W2W will take care of ya.
Originally Posted by LTLHOMER
Get an engine diaper and crank the boost...the crank isn't going to window anything, although something else might as a result! 
Originally Posted by Phate
It's the oil that you drive over that is the problem...not the pieces that fall out the bottom
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Originally Posted by LTLHOMER
Go w/ the LS2 block. Best of both worlds: aluminum and bigger bore.
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by HAMRHEAD
Well I just shot W2W an E-mail, lets see if they get back to me!
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by ddnspider
you just have to deal with the knock sensor issue then.
with how much money your putting into a motor you really want to take that chance?sure theres people doing it,hell i almost went with the LS2 right when they first came out,but i sure wouldnt delete the knock sensors on a motor im dropping $1000's on.you cant just bolt in the LS1/LS6 sensors in the factor location.you can either retap the holes for them and then tune the sensitivity,or you can mount then elsewhere on the block.i read alot about it,its a bit of a hassle with the KS's but the rest of the conversion is easy enough.But if i were you i definitely wouldnt just get rid of them all together.
I rarely see high-performance cars with knock sensors and that's been that way for a long time...tune it and add in a factor of safety and call it a day. Knock-sensors will pick up a lot of regular noises as knock (valvetrain, wheels landing after a big wheelie, whatever).
Originally Posted by ddnspider
didnt know this was a race only car.i thought he'd be driving it some off the track.for a street car it makes sense to keep KS's
To each their own...
i see no where did he list that he's using an aftermarket EFI system(Bs3,FAST,etc).thats why i said what i said.you know you can make 700rwhp or more with a stock ECU,right?if hes going with an aftermarket 1 than yes youre correct.ANYWAYS,so you make a choice yet about what youre doing HAMRHEAD?
Originally Posted by ddnspider
i see no where did he list that he's using an aftermarket EFI system(Bs3,FAST,etc).thats why i said what i said.you know you can make 700rwhp or more with a stock ECU,right?if hes going with an aftermarket 1 than yes youre correct.ANYWAYS,so you make a choice yet about what youre doing HAMRHEAD?
ok well i personally think for a street car they ARE a good idea.so thats a difference of opinion,and if you read my first post on the LS2 i said it needed to be modified.stop arguing as its not solving anything, or helping him out.im waiting to see what he decides to go with.
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From: Milwaukee, WI
I haven't had a sponsor say "go with the LS2 block yet" they all say iron so I will more than likely take their advice. Unless I decide to go agaist the grain! I may be going with BS3 if there is any money left but will use my PCM until then.
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From: Norn Iron
I'd say everyone saying iron are playing it safe, as you are a paying customer.
No doubt there are Alu blocks that will hold up fine, for a long time...they just cant guarantee it as easily.
No doubt there are Alu blocks that will hold up fine, for a long time...they just cant guarantee it as easily.