Block ????
06-14-2005, 08:25 PM
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 2,846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Block ???? I will be going turbo and wanted to know if I should invest in another shortblock. Everything else will be upgraded. I currently have a 348 forged shortblock. Should I go with like an iron 410ci forged shortblock instead. I will have around 18000.00 - 23000.00 to spend on my new setup.
I am gonna look to put 700-900rwhp down. Not sure if I'm going single or twin yet either. I know 900 will require an iron block though but what about in the 700 range?
I am gonna look to put 700-900rwhp down. Not sure if I'm going single or twin yet either. I know 900 will require an iron block though but what about in the 700 range?
06-15-2005, 08:44 AM
#3
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by smokinHawk
you could just throw some forged rods a pistons in your current block, should keep you close to your price range and it should be able to handle 700rwh
06-15-2005, 09:57 AM
#4
With that money go ahead and get a stroked iron block with a big single and custom forward facing manifolds 
thats just me though... You should have quite a bit left over to do whatever else you want, suspension... wheels tires... blah blah whatever floats your boat.
thats just me though... You should have quite a bit left over to do whatever else you want, suspension... wheels tires... blah blah whatever floats your boat.
06-15-2005, 10:28 AM
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Wet 1
Did you read his post?
To be quite honest, I think people over-simplify building a shortblock that will be able to support 900rwhp to the tire...there are only a few shops/individuals that have done it successfully and had the motor stay together for extended periods of time.
Give Kurt at W2W a call...they will set you up with the right parts for what you want to do. ----------------------->>>
06-15-2005, 11:43 AM
#7
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 2,846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't want to spend 10K on a new shortblock but am willing to spend about 6-7K on one. I just didn't want to do it if it wasn't necessary. I will sell my forged 348 to offset that cost as well. What sponsors have done the most high HP FI blocks?
Trending Topics
06-15-2005, 12:54 PM
#9
Originally Posted by HAMRHEAD
I don't want to spend 10K on a new shortblock but am willing to spend about 6-7K on one. I just didn't want to do it if it wasn't necessary. I will sell my forged 348 to offset that cost as well. What sponsors have done the most high HP FI blocks?
What components are in your FORGED motor right now???
Why spend more $$ when you dont have to and it can be used in other areas...
Look at Harlan.... over 1000HP on a stock crank...
If its higher Comp. right now just buy a new set of Low Compression pitons and a good set of rings. Main studs, head studs, good oil pump and timing set and that should do it fo the lower end. Set of 6.0L heads, Turbo cam and what ever turbo kit you choose and spend the rest were it needed to put that kind of power to the ground..... ie suspension and drivetrain. Dont forget a good fuel system also... speed inc sells a good setup. Now injectors and tuning is up to you......
who is going to be installing it and tuning it???????
Kyle
06-15-2005, 01:01 PM
#10
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 2,846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
What components are in your FORGED motor right now???
Why spend more $$ when you dont have to and it can be used in other areas...
Look at Harlan.... over 1000HP on a stock crank...
If its higher Comp. right now just buy a new set of Low Compression pitons and a good set of rings. Main studs, head studs, good oil pump and timing set and that should do it fo the lower end. Set of 6.0L heads, Turbo cam and what ever turbo kit you choose and spend the rest were it needed to put that kind of power to the ground..... ie suspension and drivetrain. Dont forget a good fuel system also... speed inc sells a good setup. Now injectors and tuning is up to you......
who is going to be installing it and tuning it???????
Kyle
Why spend more $$ when you dont have to and it can be used in other areas...
Look at Harlan.... over 1000HP on a stock crank...
If its higher Comp. right now just buy a new set of Low Compression pitons and a good set of rings. Main studs, head studs, good oil pump and timing set and that should do it fo the lower end. Set of 6.0L heads, Turbo cam and what ever turbo kit you choose and spend the rest were it needed to put that kind of power to the ground..... ie suspension and drivetrain. Dont forget a good fuel system also... speed inc sells a good setup. Now injectors and tuning is up to you......
who is going to be installing it and tuning it???????
Kyle
06-15-2005, 01:35 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
What components are in your FORGED motor right now???
Why spend more $$ when you dont have to and it can be used in other areas...
Look at Harlan.... over 1000HP on a stock crank...
If its higher Comp. right now just buy a new set of Low Compression pitons and a good set of rings. Main studs, head studs, good oil pump and timing set and that should do it fo the lower end. Set of 6.0L heads, Turbo cam and what ever turbo kit you choose and spend the rest were it needed to put that kind of power to the ground..... ie suspension and drivetrain. Dont forget a good fuel system also... speed inc sells a good setup. Now injectors and tuning is up to you......
who is going to be installing it and tuning it???????
Kyle
Why spend more $$ when you dont have to and it can be used in other areas...
Look at Harlan.... over 1000HP on a stock crank...
If its higher Comp. right now just buy a new set of Low Compression pitons and a good set of rings. Main studs, head studs, good oil pump and timing set and that should do it fo the lower end. Set of 6.0L heads, Turbo cam and what ever turbo kit you choose and spend the rest were it needed to put that kind of power to the ground..... ie suspension and drivetrain. Dont forget a good fuel system also... speed inc sells a good setup. Now injectors and tuning is up to you......
who is going to be installing it and tuning it???????
Kyle
06-15-2005, 01:46 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Phate
I doubt that Matt would recommend using the stock crank in that power range...he is just a crazy ****.
Yep, don't try it at home
I've since gone to a steel crank. My target EP/MPH range and a broken crank don't mix anymore
I never figured it would live as long as it did. But I have no problem using an aluminum block and stock crank in the truck for daily driver duty at 500 to 600 RWHP
06-15-2005, 02:12 PM
#17
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Yep, don't try it at home
I've since gone to a steel crank. My target EP/MPH range and a broken crank don't mix anymore
I never figured it would live as long as it did. But I have no problem using an aluminum block and stock crank in the truck for daily driver duty at 500 to 600 RWHP
I've since gone to a steel crank. My target EP/MPH range and a broken crank don't mix anymore
I never figured it would live as long as it did. But I have no problem using an aluminum block and stock crank in the truck for daily driver duty at 500 to 600 RWHP
06-15-2005, 02:12 PM
#18
I know you dont reccomend it Matt, but like your saying it should be fine with 700hp...
on the other note all im trying to say is the HP you are shooting for doesnt have to be made with a brand new motor.... it can be done with what you have and just add a new set of pistons, rods and a new FORGED crank if you like. The same block CAN be used and a 408 is not needed to make that kind of power.
Thats all im trying to say......
Kyle
on the other note all im trying to say is the HP you are shooting for doesnt have to be made with a brand new motor.... it can be done with what you have and just add a new set of pistons, rods and a new FORGED crank if you like. The same block CAN be used and a 408 is not needed to make that kind of power.
Thats all im trying to say......
Kyle
06-15-2005, 02:34 PM
#19
Kyle, I don't recommend the 1k+ HP on a stocker.
As for the 600 to 800 range, I personally have logged many street and track miles at that level with the car before it became what it is. I put 45k miles on the crank the car came with 25k of that with boost and most of it in the 600+ rwhp range. Had it fluxed when i did a built motor, and no signs of problems.
I lost that crank to spun mains 1k miles into the first built motor, block too
although the stock block was in great shape after 45K miles on the factory short.
The next motor after the mains was another stock block and crank. That motor was 700rwhp, the setup before i ditched the incons. 10.doh in a 6 speed, probably 8k street miles. no crank issues, had a crack in a couple liners due to improper use of solid mounts at the motor and trans.
Next setup was the 66's, motor plated, stock block and crank. That setup went 8.29, 170+. I had a lifter fail mid season last year and destroy the bottom end. I rebuilt is the same way after the lifter, cept for aluminum rods
That block is now in my truck, along w/ the pistons. But i'm using the crank that came in the truck, since the race motor would have needed ALOT of mallory to balance after having aluminum hung on it.
So i've got no concern taking a block that made 1k+ and reusing it in my daily driver. Sure it's a little rattley from the piston to bore being the race setup, but i could care less
testing your luck at 900 rwhp (well over 1k crank) on a stock crank is the gamble you take. That's all i'm saying
Oh yeah, all my past motors have been stock displacement.
As for the 600 to 800 range, I personally have logged many street and track miles at that level with the car before it became what it is. I put 45k miles on the crank the car came with 25k of that with boost and most of it in the 600+ rwhp range. Had it fluxed when i did a built motor, and no signs of problems.
I lost that crank to spun mains 1k miles into the first built motor, block too
although the stock block was in great shape after 45K miles on the factory short.The next motor after the mains was another stock block and crank. That motor was 700rwhp, the setup before i ditched the incons. 10.doh in a 6 speed, probably 8k street miles. no crank issues, had a crack in a couple liners due to improper use of solid mounts at the motor and trans.
Next setup was the 66's, motor plated, stock block and crank. That setup went 8.29, 170+. I had a lifter fail mid season last year and destroy the bottom end. I rebuilt is the same way after the lifter, cept for aluminum rods
That block is now in my truck, along w/ the pistons. But i'm using the crank that came in the truck, since the race motor would have needed ALOT of mallory to balance after having aluminum hung on it.
So i've got no concern taking a block that made 1k+ and reusing it in my daily driver. Sure it's a little rattley from the piston to bore being the race setup, but i could care less
testing your luck at 900 rwhp (well over 1k crank) on a stock crank is the gamble you take. That's all i'm saying
Oh yeah, all my past motors have been stock displacement.
06-15-2005, 06:56 PM
#20
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Kyle, I don't recommend the 1k+ HP on a stocker.
As for the 600 to 800 range, I personally have logged many street and track miles at that level with the car before it became what it is. I put 45k miles on the crank the car came with 25k of that with boost and most of it in the 600+ rwhp range. Had it fluxed when i did a built motor, and no signs of problems.
I lost that crank to spun mains 1k miles into the first built motor, block too although the stock block was in great shape after 45K miles on the factory short.
The next motor after the mains was another stock block and crank. That motor was 700rwhp, the setup before i ditched the incons. 10.doh in a 6 speed, probably 8k street miles. no crank issues, had a crack in a couple liners due to improper use of solid mounts at the motor and trans.
Next setup was the 66's, motor plated, stock block and crank. That setup went 8.29, 170+. I had a lifter fail mid season last year and destroy the bottom end. I rebuilt is the same way after the lifter, cept for aluminum rods
That block is now in my truck, along w/ the pistons. But i'm using the crank that came in the truck, since the race motor would have needed ALOT of mallory to balance after having aluminum hung on it.
So i've got no concern taking a block that made 1k+ and reusing it in my daily driver. Sure it's a little rattley from the piston to bore being the race setup, but i could care less
testing your luck at 900 rwhp (well over 1k crank) on a stock crank is the gamble you take. That's all i'm saying
Oh yeah, all my past motors have been stock displacement.
As for the 600 to 800 range, I personally have logged many street and track miles at that level with the car before it became what it is. I put 45k miles on the crank the car came with 25k of that with boost and most of it in the 600+ rwhp range. Had it fluxed when i did a built motor, and no signs of problems.
I lost that crank to spun mains 1k miles into the first built motor, block too
although the stock block was in great shape after 45K miles on the factory short.The next motor after the mains was another stock block and crank. That motor was 700rwhp, the setup before i ditched the incons. 10.doh in a 6 speed, probably 8k street miles. no crank issues, had a crack in a couple liners due to improper use of solid mounts at the motor and trans.
Next setup was the 66's, motor plated, stock block and crank. That setup went 8.29, 170+. I had a lifter fail mid season last year and destroy the bottom end. I rebuilt is the same way after the lifter, cept for aluminum rods
That block is now in my truck, along w/ the pistons. But i'm using the crank that came in the truck, since the race motor would have needed ALOT of mallory to balance after having aluminum hung on it.
So i've got no concern taking a block that made 1k+ and reusing it in my daily driver. Sure it's a little rattley from the piston to bore being the race setup, but i could care less
testing your luck at 900 rwhp (well over 1k crank) on a stock crank is the gamble you take. That's all i'm saying
Oh yeah, all my past motors have been stock displacement.