Goodbye OBX, welcome back H20/Alky
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 596
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From: Downers Grove,IL
Goodbye OBX, welcome back H20/Alky The OBX just was not worth having with my G-trim because it just can't make up for the flow loss of the intercooler. It did a nice job dropping IAT but also took away to much boost.
I'm no stranger to water/alky systems so I ditched the OBX and built a new straight shot pipe setup and a new water/alky system. Picked up 2psi and can even run more timing with out KR even though IAT's are higher than they were with the OBX.
The alky system is simple in design as I have no need for progressive controllers or anything like that. My converter keeps my rpms within a narrow 1000rpm or less band at wot and boost is fairly flat.
So it's a constant flow system activated by a wot switch which works nice as the most flow is delivered nearer peak torque.
It uses the standard 1 gpm surflo pump with the pressure switch bypassed.
It uses a return style regulation system for pressure control. I made a needle valve to control volume to the return line. It will adjust pressure from 60-200psi by simply adjusting the valve. Makes tuning easy.
I'm using the stock washer reservoir with a feed and return fitting added to it.
The pump is mounted behind the pass side fog light, removed for the picture.
A solenoid is mounted directly at the nozzle (McMaster) for instant on/off flow. I have it flowing directly into the blower discharge.
That's it, simple design and works fantastic .
Steve
I'm no stranger to water/alky systems so I ditched the OBX and built a new straight shot pipe setup and a new water/alky system. Picked up 2psi and can even run more timing with out KR even though IAT's are higher than they were with the OBX.
The alky system is simple in design as I have no need for progressive controllers or anything like that. My converter keeps my rpms within a narrow 1000rpm or less band at wot and boost is fairly flat.
So it's a constant flow system activated by a wot switch which works nice as the most flow is delivered nearer peak torque.
It uses the standard 1 gpm surflo pump with the pressure switch bypassed.
It uses a return style regulation system for pressure control. I made a needle valve to control volume to the return line. It will adjust pressure from 60-200psi by simply adjusting the valve. Makes tuning easy.
I'm using the stock washer reservoir with a feed and return fitting added to it.
The pump is mounted behind the pass side fog light, removed for the picture.
A solenoid is mounted directly at the nozzle (McMaster) for instant on/off flow. I have it flowing directly into the blower discharge.
That's it, simple design and works fantastic .
Steve
Very good looking set up Steve. I was told to mount the nozzel as close to the throttle body as possible I see you did yours right after the blower. Any reasons or just your prefered place? I have mine right at the lebo that enters the TB. My pump isn't working so I ordered a new on and I will se what I get out of it etc...
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 596
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From: Downers Grove,IL
I keep the nozzle back a ways to give the water/alky a little more time to cool the charge down. Also keeping it further back from the IAT sensor gives me a more accurate indicator of true charge temps. If the nozzle is to close to the sensor, all the sensor is doing is measuring the fluid temp.
Plus the blower has a threaded boss right in that spot
.
I really don't think it makes much of a difference as far as performance where the nozzle is, within reason.
I have tried from 1 to 4 nozzles injecting anywhere from right into the impeller to right at the throttle body. Doesn't seem to make much difference where the nozzle is.
I have my IAT table in the pcm set to pull timing at certain charge temps also incase of any sort of failure of the system.
Did anybody notice I have no bypass valve now?
I am using a pre blower throttle valve that is activated in conjunction with the primary throttle body.
During cruise the blowers throttle valve is closed enough that there is no need to bypass extra airflow.
At wot throttle shutdown, the blowers throttle valve is shut at the exact same time as the primary throttle body valve is.
The blowers air supply is shut down instantly and there is absolutely
no need for any air bypass valve.
Also keeps cruise IAT's down a bit and I don't have to deal with the noise anymore.
I'll be making a nicer one and then I'll take pics and detail it a bit more.
This is direct from Vortechs website on the subject-
"8. THROTTLE BODY LOCATION
On road racing applications or high speed endurance
racing, mounting the throttle body before the air inlet
of the supercharger has distinct benefits. When the
throttle body is closed it "chokes off" the airflow to
the supercharger, thus virtually eliminating the need
for air bypass valves. This mounting location also
provides cooler discharge temperatures and lower
horsepower consumption during part throttle conditions,
when the engine is at a high rpm. "
Steve
Plus the blower has a threaded boss right in that spot
.I really don't think it makes much of a difference as far as performance where the nozzle is, within reason.
I have tried from 1 to 4 nozzles injecting anywhere from right into the impeller to right at the throttle body. Doesn't seem to make much difference where the nozzle is.
I have my IAT table in the pcm set to pull timing at certain charge temps also incase of any sort of failure of the system.
Did anybody notice I have no bypass valve now?
I am using a pre blower throttle valve that is activated in conjunction with the primary throttle body.
During cruise the blowers throttle valve is closed enough that there is no need to bypass extra airflow.
At wot throttle shutdown, the blowers throttle valve is shut at the exact same time as the primary throttle body valve is.
The blowers air supply is shut down instantly and there is absolutely
no need for any air bypass valve.
Also keeps cruise IAT's down a bit and I don't have to deal with the noise anymore.
I'll be making a nicer one and then I'll take pics and detail it a bit more.
This is direct from Vortechs website on the subject-
"8. THROTTLE BODY LOCATION
On road racing applications or high speed endurance
racing, mounting the throttle body before the air inlet
of the supercharger has distinct benefits. When the
throttle body is closed it "chokes off" the airflow to
the supercharger, thus virtually eliminating the need
for air bypass valves. This mounting location also
provides cooler discharge temperatures and lower
horsepower consumption during part throttle conditions,
when the engine is at a high rpm. "
Steve
I noticed quite a bit, but I could not see everything from your picture so I wasn't sure of anything so no I didn't ask. Great Idea where did you get you valve and what are you using to activate it. Good work by the way you have some very good Ideas.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 596
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From: Downers Grove,IL
Great Idea where did you get you valve and what are you using to activate it.
So both throttles open and close at the same time from the gas pedal.
This is just a rough version I built to test out.
I will make a nice precise one in the future.
Kp, At this point I just have fun messing with the car. It's never going to be rocketship or internet dyno king.
It would be nice to run it at the strip and not have to clean up coolant messes all the time though.
Steve
Originally Posted by S_J_H
Kp, At this point I just have fun messing with the car. It's never going to be rocketship or internet dyno king.
It would be nice to run it at the strip and not have to clean up coolant messes all the time though.
Steve
It would be nice to run it at the strip and not have to clean up coolant messes all the time though.
Steve
I'm certainly no dyno king either 
