Do you guys think an FMIC is worth it?

I've had the 5psi STS kit on my car for about 8 months now (custom dynotuned with injectors) and am a happy customer. But I am ready for more power. I don't trust the methanol injection kit, so do you guys think I should get an FMIC? If so, how much more boost can I run? I know I'll need a fuel pump for sure....but do I have to upgrade anything else? Like forged internals or ported and polished heads? Oh, and how much should I spend on everything including custom install? If there's anyone here who knows someone who can fabricate me an FMIC in Arizona please let me know!
Thank you again guys for all your help. Please don't go saying that I should have used the search feature. I tried it and didn't find anything useful.
SEARCH I would consider running 85% ethanol fuel if you can get it there too...
Once you get to a certain power level you need to go thru the fuel system and reprogram or replace the PCM with a EMS.. It costs the same to switch to E at the same time and IMHO under 10psi of boost you probably wont need a IC with the 85% ethanol...
Last edited by V8_DSM_V8again; Aug 8, 2005 at 12:12 AM.
I am running a FMIC with my STS and it works great.
Just running 6psi now but will be cranking it up to 10 here real soon.
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i was in too much of a hurry. slapped on the turbo system, and was having fun with WOT runs with no intercooler and no tuning period.....didnt last longer than about 2 weeks( POOF). Thats quite an expensive lesson. good thing is that I was ready for a forged motor anyway. Had this been my only daily driver, I would have been screwed. main point is, you can't slap on a forced Induction setup and expect to last long without any tuning.
My car was turbo'd around 60k miles, I now have 73k miles on her, and they weren't easy miles or highway miles. The amount of boost you run is almost irrealevant as long as the tune is good.
Key things to remember.
1. don't detonate
2. DON'T DETONATE!
3. DON'T DETONATE IT DAMMIT! (go by the ECU, not your ear)
4. don't do long highway pulls if the EGT's are high
5. scan the car at all times for KR (I use a aeroforcetech scan gage)
6. keep it rich. I run 11.0 a/f. #7 probably runs the leanest. I know at 11.0 that non of my cyls should be leaner than 11.5. You are only sacrificing 10-15 rwhp.
also, if you plan on being drag car only, then run a2w intercooler. if you drive it on the street at all Id HIGHLY advise you get a2a since were runnin 115* weather here in az. Thats my advise.
On my T/A ive got a2a for the reason. Good luck with everything.
Could you explain more on:
4. don't do long highway pulls if the EGT's are high (What are EGT's?)
5. scan the car at all times for KR (I use a aeroforcetech scan gage) (What are KR and explain a little more on the monitoring)
Thanks man for your time and the time of all those willing to put up with us Boost noobs..

Jared
Could you explain more on:
4. don't do long highway pulls if the EGT's are high (What are EGT's?)
5. scan the car at all times for KR (I use a aeroforcetech scan gage) (What are KR and explain a little more on the monitoring)
Thanks man for your time and the time of all those willing to put up with us Boost noobs..

Jared
i dont know what specifically, but id figure it melts something or catches something on fire in your engine bay.5. KR is knock retard. you dont wanna ping to much, same thing as detonation. when you detonate, things go boom.

Im not sure how to monitor KR as Im still new to the whole game too, but its a learning experience.
4. don't do long highway pulls if the EGT's are high (What are EGT's?)
5. scan the car at all times for KR (I use a aeroforcetech scan gage) (What are KR and explain a little more on the monitoring)
Jared
KR is Knock retard. It's the amount of timing the computer is pulling in it's valliant effort to stop detonating. Most peoples cars detonate and they don't know it unless it's audible. If you can hear it, it's really really really bad. I pick up a degree or two of detonation once in a great while on my car, not enough to harm anything, the computer stops it.
I always change the retard settings on power adder vehicles. The stock program only allows for 4 degrees to be pulled, set it to 10.
Hey Zombie. You make a good point about tuning and how important it is. I told the guy that tuned my car to give me a "safe" tune (daily driver). So what I did was sacrifice some power for longevity. My car only makes 400rwhp, but I know that my A/F is at good levels. Do you think my whole safe tune was a good idea?
Hey Zombie. You make a good point about tuning and how important it is. I told the guy that tuned my car to give me a "safe" tune. So what I did was sacrifice some power for longevity. My car only makes 400rwhp, but I know that my A/F is at good levels. Do you think my whole safe tune was a good idea?
However everyone ive spoken to that has had him do work for them has loved his work, and is pretty inexpensive compared to others.
i actually just moved to ahwatukee in october, i need to update my sig.
I dont have an STS on my car, im getting a custom front mount in a 408.
check out these three links for my buildup.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=gt55
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=gt55
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/361266-update-turbo-project.html
car should be hopefully in my posession within 2 weeks or so, still awaiting dyno numbers as well...
but you should come over and get a beer sometime or something

Edit: oh, and yes im a member of azfba, but i dont associate with those guys. They have bolt ons and think their **** dont stink, so I prefer just to find normal down to earth people.
Your car is gonna be sweet with that front mount. I would love to see it sometime.
Later
2000 TZ thanks for chiming in with good info.
Zom... what is the best way to monitor the KR and the EGT? Any reccomendations? What are the boundries that it should be within?

