Would like to go from Procharger to Turbo...tips?
08-14-2005, 12:57 AM
#21
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But 50 grams on a boosted engine isn't very likely to be noticed. Those on a budget would notice the other price more. 427 does says the rod MFG rates them at 1000 hp.. fine for most people... and this guys needs... Maybe just not in the budget..
08-14-2005, 01:03 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
So has this turned into a pissing contest?
I am not looking into a forged motor right now... When I blow my motor then I'll need one
Anyone have any thoughts on electronic boost controllers? Are the useful, worthless? Expensive? Where to get them?
I am not looking into a forged motor right now... When I blow my motor then I'll need one
Anyone have any thoughts on electronic boost controllers? Are the useful, worthless? Expensive? Where to get them?
I would get a good MBC and a good liquid filled mechanical boost gauge.
The most for the money would be getting a MBC, big stuff EMS and a wideband o2....
I swear that my AEM EMS and my WB02 will end up in my coffin when I kick at over a 100 hopefully.. No substitute as compared to marginally or not worth the money over that alternative in the case of some electronic boost controllers.
08-14-2005, 01:20 AM
#23
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[QUOTE=Ferocity02]So has this turned into a pissing contest?
I am not looking into a forged motor right now... When I blow my motor then I'll need one
so keeping the stock displacement with stock crank is able to run 650rwhp safe with only new positons and rods from what I understand some one yell at me if I'm wrong
but stock he will only be able to run 550rwhp right it does not matter if he has a turbo or a charger its just were and how his boost starts in
I am not looking into a forged motor right now... When I blow my motor then I'll need one
so keeping the stock displacement with stock crank is able to run 650rwhp safe with only new positons and rods from what I understand some one yell at me if I'm wrong
but stock he will only be able to run 550rwhp right it does not matter if he has a turbo or a charger its just were and how his boost starts in Last edited by 01red28; 08-14-2005 at 01:27 AM.
08-14-2005, 01:31 AM
#24
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with a forged bottom end you can go a lot higher than that.
i've heard of stock bottom ends going to 550 and beyond but you have to have the fuel system there and the right tuning.
otherwise i'd stay conservative on the boost and wait till you can do the bottom end.
i've heard of stock bottom ends going to 550 and beyond but you have to have the fuel system there and the right tuning.
otherwise i'd stay conservative on the boost and wait till you can do the bottom end.
08-14-2005, 08:46 AM
#25
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=26
The factory crank was kept in the Corvette in the above link that is making 790 rwhp on my Mustang Chassis Dyno, at only 14 psi of boost. Bob
The factory crank was kept in the Corvette in the above link that is making 790 rwhp on my Mustang Chassis Dyno, at only 14 psi of boost. Bob
08-14-2005, 12:00 PM
#27
Originally Posted by mdhmi
I run a Blitz ABC. ~$500. Really not necessary IMHO, but they are pretty cool.
Mark
Mark
08-14-2005, 05:01 PM
#29
lot of debatin on this thread! my questin would be this then. What would the best long block set up be? like forged block, pistions, heads, shaft. all of that!! what would be able to hold as much psi that i can throw at it? AND still be able to take it down the street witout anything breaking?
08-14-2005, 05:03 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by sycotic_reject
lot of debatin on this thread! my questin would be this then. What would the best long block set up be? like forged block, pistions, heads, shaft. all of that!! what would be able to hold as much psi that i can throw at it? AND still be able to take it down the street witout anything breaking?
08-14-2005, 08:11 PM
#32
I just finished my Procharger uninstall. Worked out pretty well. I even had time to remove radiator and clean it out everything that monster Spal fan sucked up off the road. The car runs well. Fans work after rewiring them. I even hooked my A/C back up. I do miss the Procharger whine though. I will give GroundZero a call tomarrow and get some questions answered.
08-15-2005, 08:34 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by sycotic_reject
lot of debatin on this thread! my questin would be this then. What would the best long block set up be? like forged block, pistions, heads, shaft. all of that!! what would be able to hold as much psi that i can throw at it? AND still be able to take it down the street witout anything breaking?
I have had good luck with wiseco pistons..
Any way I would be getting a piston with offset wrist pin bores and a forging that can be run on the tight side as far as forged pistons go. The offset pins eliminate cold engine slap... Wiseco can deliver that all at nice prices.
Run the low tension napier ring pack and a vacuum pump...
1. Low friction
2. Great ring seal from the vacuum..
3. great case ventilation.. same reason
4. greatly reduced windage.
I would run comp turbo specific grind like cam forced inductions has in their LS1. Its a mild cam but all turbo cams are pretty mild..
Best rods would be manleys, olivers or the howards. Depending on boost level... Like if huge boost go with the stronger but heavier variations of the manleys or howards... Durablility
All pro heads... For the added strength around head bolts.. Durability..
