Cracked manifold
looks familiar
this picture is of my q m p manifold taken 8/3/2003 5 months after installation
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84297420QDEWfo
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84297409DUcskF
this picture is of my q m p manifold taken 8/3/2003 5 months after installation
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84297420QDEWfo
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84297409DUcskF
Metal Man: While I pretty much agree with most of your post, this manifold ironically cracked at the BACK primary where the only weight is the cross-over pipe 
There are no cracks at the front where the turbocharger is mounted. I definitely think there needs to be some type of flex coupler in the crossover, as it was a really tight fit, and I'm sure it stressed that back primary. I'd also like to see flex bellows in between each runner, but that would significantly increase the cost of that manifold -- to the point it would make more sense to go cast. If it were a cast mani, this kit would be fine for street use.
There are no cracks at the front where the turbocharger is mounted. I definitely think there needs to be some type of flex coupler in the crossover, as it was a really tight fit, and I'm sure it stressed that back primary. I'd also like to see flex bellows in between each runner, but that would significantly increase the cost of that manifold -- to the point it would make more sense to go cast. If it were a cast mani, this kit would be fine for street use. I'm going to call Al @ Stainless Works on Monday and see if he wants to take a look at it so he can improve the kit. If he doesn't want to see it, I'll probably stop up to Madman and have him go over the welds, and then we can pop it back on the car tomorrow night.
Well I could have taken pictures of Rob's old kit that I have 3 out of four were cracked right at the area where they attach to the log. Had them all welded and milled the flange also as it warped pretty bad. Well see how it holds up.
What about cutting the flange between bolts 3+4 and then expanding the outer bolt holes to give the log some flexing room? I bet if you did some simple mods to the manifold it would increase the reliability a bit. Either way it sucks and i am in the same boat with my CAS TT kit. I had my flanges cut between bolts 3 + 4. This won't work miracles but i hope it will aid in the longevity of an effective yet poor design. Good luck!
Greg
Greg
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
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From: Phoenix, AZ.
Cutting the flange will not help with cracking only flange warp. The only real solution is to have long runner type manifolds made to replace the log style manifolds. Jet coating would be the best attempt at slowing the cracking put if repairs are ever needed down the road it's a huge PITA. I might consider making anyone long runner style manifolds that would bolt up and be the same size as the logs. If anyone is interested please email (metalmanfab@gmail.com) me the best pictures possible and I'll take a look. I'd need the old ones to jig to fabricate new ones unless you can/will bring the car to me in AZ.
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if you cut it between the bolt holes make sure you enlarge the bolt holes a good bit. the piece will then expand more and it will be heck getting those header bolts on and off. As i had to do that to my old TTi.
also the cracks are more caused by heat then weight. That back port is right were the exhaust from the other bank hits as they have to fight eachother to vent. The tti kit was worse on it as it had the wastegate on the xover so alot of direction change on the exaust really screwed things up.
also the cracks are more caused by heat then weight. That back port is right were the exhaust from the other bank hits as they have to fight eachother to vent. The tti kit was worse on it as it had the wastegate on the xover so alot of direction change on the exaust really screwed things up.
Originally Posted by Billiumss
What brand is it? How old is it?
I am probably going to get the TTI kit and I hope I don't have to get it rewelded every year...
I am probably going to get the TTI kit and I hope I don't have to get it rewelded every year...
Let's quote myself....
If I buy this kit, should I have TTI make the manifold out of mild steel and then get it Jet Hot coated?
Thread Starter
Fiery Features Director
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From: Houston, Tx
Originally Posted by Billiumss
Let's quote myself....
If I buy this kit, should I have TTI make the manifold out of mild steel and then get it Jet Hot coated?
If I buy this kit, should I have TTI make the manifold out of mild steel and then get it Jet Hot coated?
Originally Posted by Zangel
My kit is not the TTI kit. However, I do believe they have the same problems. I am sure it will be a bit more expensive, but it will save you some time to have it done right the first time.
So it's the Q_M_P kit? Please explain more about your 2nd sentence...
Bill
The manifold is from Stainless Works, which is who built them for qm.p, who modeled them after the TTI. Or so I'm told
If SW can make these reliable without cracking, its a great street kit IMHO. The packaging is pretty tight, and the only thing you have to relocate is the alternator (easy). If you don't try putting a T76 on it, everything "should" fit pretty well as-is. Since ZAngel has a 76mm, getting everything in there was kind of a chore! Now that we've done one, we could duplicate her install (with a smaller turbo) in a weekend. You learn quite a bit on the first go-around
If SW can make these reliable without cracking, its a great street kit IMHO. The packaging is pretty tight, and the only thing you have to relocate is the alternator (easy). If you don't try putting a T76 on it, everything "should" fit pretty well as-is. Since ZAngel has a 76mm, getting everything in there was kind of a chore! Now that we've done one, we could duplicate her install (with a smaller turbo) in a weekend. You learn quite a bit on the first go-around
if you get the smaller T76 form turbotech it will fit the car without modifications
Bill if you can get turbotech to do a mild manafold it will be less likely to crack. though if it does crack and you coated it its a pain to fix, you have to strip the coating, weld it, then have it recoated.
Bill if you can get turbotech to do a mild manafold it will be less likely to crack. though if it does crack and you coated it its a pain to fix, you have to strip the coating, weld it, then have it recoated.
cast manifolds are nice, those are my plans for my car. (where can I get incon turbos??)
Although, weld EL's work suprising good as well. A friend has built a couple of sets for various cars with good results. no cracking yet, where the mild steel, had cracking in only a few short months.
Ryan
Although, weld EL's work suprising good as well. A friend has built a couple of sets for various cars with good results. no cracking yet, where the mild steel, had cracking in only a few short months.
Ryan
Its more than just tube thickness though, its the imperfect pulse sequence that a log style gets.
Imports that run the ram horn style, Weld-EL headers have no issues with 50+ PSI of backpressure and hanging a big T4 off of it. However, they all run them into a standart merge collector that has an even pulse sequence.
Imports that run the ram horn style, Weld-EL headers have no issues with 50+ PSI of backpressure and hanging a big T4 off of it. However, they all run them into a standart merge collector that has an even pulse sequence.
I talked to Al yesterday, and he's going to try rewelding it and try to get to the inside of the joints to add some strength there as well. Hopefully that will at least get it to last a season 
If this were a cast manifold it would be gravy.
If this were a cast manifold it would be gravy.