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Cracked manifold

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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 02:51 PM
  #41  
Mike 01WS6's Avatar
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I'd just try to modify the setup to use two cast manifolds. The only log style turbo kit that has held up is the Incon kit. The cast iron manifolds will take 100x the abuse than even the best stainless steel. The turbos are supported by the manifolds entirely as well. There is a reason why running stock manifolds is pretty commonplace now; everyone likes longevity, and durability.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 03:46 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Mike 01WS6
I'd just try to modify the setup to use two cast manifolds. The only log style turbo kit that has held up is the Incon kit. The cast iron manifolds will take 100x the abuse than even the best stainless steel. The turbos are supported by the manifolds entirely as well.
log manifold is where both banks of exhaust join at and run through one side.

the incons are recast stock manifolds.. kinda not on the same page

yes i would support the turbo, though i thought you engineer'd a turbo support allready?

my turbo has its own support and my stainless parts have over a year and a half of daily driving on them with no cracks or problems what-so-ever
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 07:25 PM
  #43  
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I would do what stenods customer says... and what the shop did on their own car.

My recomendation matches.

On my DSM I just ported and polished the stock cast manifold.. Everybody who bought cheap tubular stuff had some failures.. Wastegates falling off etc....

Port match it to the heads and to the components that bolt to the manifold outlet... Maybe have it extrude honed if you have some ching... Then wrap the crap out if it in header wrap... Do a good job a nice tight straight wrap of atleast two layers.. Use the ss ties these guys sell or my trick... CV boot ties... Use the heat screen over the top of that for better looks and more insulation... An a 6.0 mani I would lay a sheet of it on it and cut between runners.. Make the lap joints at the rear so it looks like a i piece heat sheild... Heat in the manifold is velocity and velocity is power.... Heat in the engine compartment is bad.. keep it in the exhaust system..

Wrap
http://www.designengineering.com/pro...asp?m=sc&cid=3

"Heat screen" For over the top of the wrap... Use their high temp sealant on overlap to seal it..
http://www.designengineering.com/pro...asp?m=sc&cid=7

Do the turbine housing and downpipe too..



Want better than the truck manis?

1. Get some stainless headers that fit.... Something will clear out of the box... 6.0 truck aftermarket midlengths? I'm guessing but I am sure something available will clear...
2. Get two of these and 8 of the weld on double slips for the primaries.




3. Make a tripod mount for the turbo to brace it to the block... 3 rods with heim ends. for a mount that is very stiff in 3D and still light weight...

Thats pretty much how the top turbo racing teams do it..

Last edited by V8_DSM_V8again; Aug 23, 2005 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 09:01 PM
  #44  
Mike 01WS6's Avatar
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
log manifold is where both banks of exhaust join at and run through one side.

the incons are recast stock manifolds.. kinda not on the same page
I realize how that system works, I was just suggesting that the entire setup be re-thought/redesigned unless he wants to keep fixing it over and over again. Using 2 iron mani's will be much more durable than that single stainless log and stock manifold.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 09:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by V8_DSM_V8again
I would do what stenod says...

My recomendation matches.
lol

I am not STENOD, just a loyal customer.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Mike 01WS6
lol

I am not STENOD, just a loyal customer.
Ok fixed that....

Try to superinsulate your exhaust...

I dropped underhood temps alot when I did it to the DSM then bolted the heat sheilds over it all...
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