aluminum vs iron block
08-31-2005, 08:50 AM
#21
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Call W2W, they have seen some flex in the aluminum blocks with higher HP builds, which is why I went with the iron block with the girdle...cheap insurance on a motor that you are going to have big $$$ into.
The simple reality is that a lot of the guys on here that say that they are going to/want to make 1xxxrwhp are living in a dream world. There are only a handful of individuals/shops that have done it successfully and repeatably.
The simple reality is that a lot of the guys on here that say that they are going to/want to make 1xxxrwhp are living in a dream world. There are only a handful of individuals/shops that have done it successfully and repeatably.
08-31-2005, 09:04 AM
#22
Been there. Still using an Aluminum block. Do things move around, sure. That's why I went to motor plates.
We're not asking them to live at peak power for 200 hours here, I'm willing to accept the risk.
But scott's right. Not many have first hand knowledge of even 800rwhp on the street. It's fairly ignorant.
Think about how long a motor lives at full power versus the entire life of the motor. Street use that is. Not very long, you run outta road
We're not asking them to live at peak power for 200 hours here, I'm willing to accept the risk.
But scott's right. Not many have first hand knowledge of even 800rwhp on the street. It's fairly ignorant.
Think about how long a motor lives at full power versus the entire life of the motor. Street use that is. Not very long, you run outta road
08-31-2005, 05:30 PM
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We have had problems maintaining ring seal for more than 6 months of street racing/driving with high HP boosted aluminum blocks. You could probably cure some of it with hard block filler on the 3.9 bore blocks. The LS2 block is built stronger in some key area's, but we have not boosted one hard yet.
Kurt
Kurt
08-31-2005, 05:59 PM
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C5R block is very good part. I am not fond of the big 4.125 bore on a 4.4 center block for high boost. It does not leave alot of room for o-ring grooves/reciever's. We always fight on boosted engines to keep the head sealed at high power levels.
Kurt
Kurt
Originally Posted by 2001WS6Vert
Kurt, what is your opinion of the C5R block on high HP boost? Can it hang with the iron block?
08-31-2005, 07:16 PM
#29
Originally Posted by bumpin_records
so what im getting here is a aluminum block as ok to run high hp hu? That is why i got a iron block but if it dont matter you might as well save some weight.
iron block has been in since november and same abuse, little MORE hp, and still sealing like it was in november.
08-31-2005, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 427
C5R block is very good part. I am not fond of the big 4.125 bore on a 4.4 center block for high boost. It does not leave alot of room for o-ring grooves/reciever's. We always fight on boosted engines to keep the head sealed at high power levels.
Kurt
Kurt
08-31-2005, 08:15 PM
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427 and MIGHTYMOUSE: I realize it is done most of the time these days, but I still have to ask. Were these aluminum blocks that you have seen ring seal issues on honed with a torque plate? Same issues with the LS6 block? Don't they have thicker bulkheads?
Thanks
Thanks
08-31-2005, 09:49 PM
#32
just for some prespective, do you mean by high HP on the LS1 blocks? Like 800+?
Originally Posted by 427
We have had problems maintaining ring seal for more than 6 months of street racing/driving with high HP boosted aluminum blocks. You could probably cure some of it with hard block filler on the 3.9 bore blocks. The LS2 block is built stronger in some key area's, but we have not boosted one hard yet.
Kurt
Kurt
08-31-2005, 10:01 PM
#33
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I have never used a Darton wet block, but the same dimensions. The deck real estate just is not there.
In all reality, we just pushed a car as hard as we could with a 4 inch bore block. There was more power available, the tires/car just was not up to it. You don't need a 4.125 bore to make more power than you can use with the parts that are available today.
Kurt
In all reality, we just pushed a car as hard as we could with a 4 inch bore block. There was more power available, the tires/car just was not up to it. You don't need a 4.125 bore to make more power than you can use with the parts that are available today.
Kurt
Originally Posted by Wet 1
What about the 4.125 Darton wet sleeve blocks?
08-31-2005, 10:07 PM
#34
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Torque plate honed-yes.
1000hp at the flywheel, in my opionion would lose ring seal in a 3.900 block to often for the normal customer to deal with.
800+ is high hp. 1200 is big bad hp. 1500+ makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up everytime I start it.
Kurt
1000hp at the flywheel, in my opionion would lose ring seal in a 3.900 block to often for the normal customer to deal with.
800+ is high hp. 1200 is big bad hp. 1500+ makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up everytime I start it.
Kurt
Originally Posted by FastKat
just for some prespective, do you mean by high HP on the LS1 blocks? Like 800+?
08-31-2005, 11:04 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by 427
Torque plate honed-yes.
1000hp at the flywheel, in my opionion would lose ring seal in a 3.900 block to often for the normal customer to deal with.
800+ is high hp. 1200 is big bad hp. 1500+ makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up everytime I start it.
Kurt
1000hp at the flywheel, in my opionion would lose ring seal in a 3.900 block to often for the normal customer to deal with.
800+ is high hp. 1200 is big bad hp. 1500+ makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up everytime I start it.
Kurt
09-01-2005, 08:44 AM
#37
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you'll gain 6 cubes doing .030 over.... not a whole lot. besides you are just making the cylinder walls thinner by doing that. a lot of people have done .060 over iron blocks with boost and cracked 'em. so i say just keep the stock 4" bore and retain maximum wall thickness. the way i look at the whole iron vs. aluminum deal is real simple. N/A = aluminum block, boost or n2o = iron block. but that's just my opinion.
09-01-2005, 08:45 AM
#38
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The advantages and disadvantages of alum and CI blocks have been debated more heavily than Bush's decision to invade Iraq. At 600 to 700 hp, an alum block get most people's votes.
Originally Posted by FastKat
I am putting an LQ4/4L80E in my 1985 Jaguar XJ6. The car's original curb weight is about 4,000lbs. The original engine and trans were very heavy, but so is LQ4/4L80E. I am planning a boosted setup looking for between 600 and 700hp.
What I really want is an aluminum LS1 block because of the lighter weight (I think about 65lbs) because my car is already heavy. I'm worried about being able to hook up as well as having a good distribution for a good feel on the road. Do you think this weight savings is justified or should I go with the beefier iron block because of the higher boosted HP and torque and FI setup is going to produce?
What I really want is an aluminum LS1 block because of the lighter weight (I think about 65lbs) because my car is already heavy. I'm worried about being able to hook up as well as having a good distribution for a good feel on the road. Do you think this weight savings is justified or should I go with the beefier iron block because of the higher boosted HP and torque and FI setup is going to produce?
09-01-2005, 08:47 AM
#39
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if you want to justify the added weight with more cubes, build a stroker motor of it. lots of inexpensive iron block stroker shortblocks available, also rotating assemblies since you already have the block.
representin' the iron block 402!
representin' the iron block 402!
09-01-2005, 10:54 AM
#40
With the iron block and stroker crank, add a minimum of $1000... and that's more power to get to the ground on a heavier car. Not that I wouldn't want one!!! Just trying to keep costs under control... the more I read, the more I think I'd rather have the lighter block with less cubes.
Originally Posted by imslow
if you want to justify the added weight with more cubes, build a stroker motor of it. lots of inexpensive iron block stroker shortblocks available, also rotating assemblies since you already have the block.
representin' the iron block 402!
representin' the iron block 402!