383 ci & TTI Street Kit, good combo or not?
#22
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i consider the "cool factor" more of a bonus,the extra cubes SHOULD help the turbo spool faster as well as give you more area under the curve.And a 383 would help put a bigger turbo in more of the efficiency range.i say if u wanna do it go for it and see what happens,but i wouldnt recommend log manifolds though.
#24
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You could always go the Stainless Works route put a kit together and save some money, if so let me know. I have a TTi street kit intercooler for cheap.
I love My TTi kit (most of the time). Its been very reliable, its all the other crap that keeps breaking
I love My TTi kit (most of the time). Its been very reliable, its all the other crap that keeps breaking
#25
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
if they made a 346 iron block i would have taken it over the 6L.
Originally Posted by Billiumss
Last time I checked, you can't use knock sensors on a LS2 block with a LS1 computer, I tuned (3) 427 LS2 C5s and they don't use knock sensors.
550 RWHP is what I would like to have but just looking at all the options out there. I figure run less boost with more cubes. What's worse for the log manifold kit, more boost or more cubes? I just want the kit to last a very long time, so that is most important to me.
What question do I keep asking? This is the 1st time I asked about using a 383 with this kit...
550 RWHP is what I would like to have but just looking at all the options out there. I figure run less boost with more cubes. What's worse for the log manifold kit, more boost or more cubes? I just want the kit to last a very long time, so that is most important to me.
What question do I keep asking? This is the 1st time I asked about using a 383 with this kit...
that kit will EASILY put down 550rwhp on pump gas with a set of decent heads, low CR (around 9.0), good cam and 10psi
dont do big cubes on that kit, it isnt needed nor will it work well with the system it will have bad exhaust modjo.
#26
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
i was sure you could attach the ls1 knock sensors to the ls2 block wither in the new knock sensor location or the extra motormount location, something like that, and it worked fine, i could be wrong though.
#27
Originally Posted by gillbot
I had the same impression.
Just because they can screw in doesn't mean they will work properly.
You have to remember, the placement of the LS1 knocks sensors were calibrated in the postion under the valley cover.
The only way it will work is if someone that has a lot of time and money to run a LS2 block on a engine dyno for countless hours to get it right instead of guessing, using knock sensors on a LS2 block and using a LS1 computer will never happen.
#28
I would run the stock stroke or less stroke...
For a turbo street car its the best bet.. On the low end you will likely have problems hooking up with either displacement engine. You will pull harder on the top end with the smaller stroke. You will get much better MPG with the smaller engine off the boost and it will also live alot longer given the same quality of pistons, rods, rings and other bottom end components.
I spend the money on big stuff 3 with wideband, fuel system, intercooler, etc not on increasing displacement. You will gain alot consistency, efficiency, longevity and more thru the use of a potent engine management system.
Also in regards to displacement. Do you want to hand the viper his butt and have him say it was a LS1 stroker that beat him or a stock displacement?
I'm building for efficiency.. Its ~327 or ~302 for displacement. Then VE mods on top of a good turbo system. Porting, valve upgrades, cam, SMIM etc....
For a turbo street car its the best bet.. On the low end you will likely have problems hooking up with either displacement engine. You will pull harder on the top end with the smaller stroke. You will get much better MPG with the smaller engine off the boost and it will also live alot longer given the same quality of pistons, rods, rings and other bottom end components.
I spend the money on big stuff 3 with wideband, fuel system, intercooler, etc not on increasing displacement. You will gain alot consistency, efficiency, longevity and more thru the use of a potent engine management system.
Also in regards to displacement. Do you want to hand the viper his butt and have him say it was a LS1 stroker that beat him or a stock displacement?
I'm building for efficiency.. Its ~327 or ~302 for displacement. Then VE mods on top of a good turbo system. Porting, valve upgrades, cam, SMIM etc....
#30
http://www.scegaskets.com/news/ics-t...horsepower.htm
Hey check out this Ken D 286 Cu inch... About 1833hp at 9400 rpm..
Hey check out this Ken D 286 Cu inch... About 1833hp at 9400 rpm..
#32
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Originally Posted by V8_DSM_V8again
I would run the stock stroke or less stroke...
For a turbo street car its the best bet.. On the low end you will likely have problems hooking up with either displacement engine. You will pull harder on the top end with the smaller stroke. You will get much better MPG with the smaller engine off the boost and it will also live alot longer given the same quality of pistons, rods, rings and other bottom end components.
For a turbo street car its the best bet.. On the low end you will likely have problems hooking up with either displacement engine. You will pull harder on the top end with the smaller stroke. You will get much better MPG with the smaller engine off the boost and it will also live alot longer given the same quality of pistons, rods, rings and other bottom end components.
#33
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Originally Posted by BlackCamaroSS02
Can you please explain all of this in more detail because i was thinking of getting a 408 turbo'ed setup but this make me think...do you have AIM or anything where i can contact you??
#34
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V8_DSMs building an efficient motor, but wouldn't he have to rev it a good bit to see all that power he's going to make?
P.S. Post the AIM convo
P.S. Post the AIM convo
Last edited by mahhddgtp; 09-08-2005 at 09:23 PM.
#40
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
Nope....
Just because they can screw in doesn't mean they will work properly.
You have to remember, the placement of the LS1 knocks sensors were calibrated in the postion under the valley cover.
The only way it will work is if someone that has a lot of time and money to run a LS2 block on a engine dyno for countless hours to get it right instead of guessing, using knock sensors on a LS2 block and using a LS1 computer will never happen.
Just because they can screw in doesn't mean they will work properly.
You have to remember, the placement of the LS1 knocks sensors were calibrated in the postion under the valley cover.
The only way it will work is if someone that has a lot of time and money to run a LS2 block on a engine dyno for countless hours to get it right instead of guessing, using knock sensors on a LS2 block and using a LS1 computer will never happen.