ATI Procharger crank bolt cutting procedure
A few of us have already had this bolt back out under certain conditions (maybe increase HP levels of stage two or a smaller pulley). From what I can see, the problem is that the washer resting agaist the bolt head gets stressed and a depression is wallowed out in the washer's inner circumference.
The Pulley begins to rotate on the bolt and subseqeuntly unscrews the bolt from the crank. Your first indication of this will be reduced boost levels, and then a rattling noise at idle as the bolt backs further out.
Best case is you fix it and torque it back in. It is likely you will lose the three dowel pins it comes with. Worse case is the pulley becomes deformed enough to not spin true. Worst case it reams out the crank threads and you have to replace your crank.
(At least, those are three scenarios I foresee.)
Jason at Golden West Performance recommended I cut the bolt and use only one washer. (He does this, now.) I was a bit anxious about cutting it the right length, and apparently some of you are, too.
Here is what I did. Someone may come up with a better way, but this is what worked for me. (You cannot simply stick something in to measure the length... there is additional cavity length beyond where the bolt stops if you try to measure all the way back.)
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See how many washers it takes to tighten it until your crank begins to turn. (Make sure the blower pulley is on when you do this. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> )
It may take three or four washers.
If it's four, try cutting the width of 4 washer widths off it.
If it's three, try cutting 3 washer widths off it. (I think three is the norm, but mine was four.)
(Let me warn you, this bolt is VERY hard and will take a while to hack through.) <img src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" border="0">
Then use one washer when you torque it down. If you didn't quite cut it enough and one washer is not enough, you have a choice of cutting or grinding a little more off or just using two washers. (That's GOT to be better than using 3 or 4).
This worked for me. Make sure you are comfortable with how you decide to do it, but I think you'll agree the process makes sense.
I double-checked by seeing how much slack was between the pulley and the harmonic balancer BEFORE cutting the bolt, with no washers on it to try to determine how much to cut, also. I think this will give you a warm and fuzzy feeling. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Good luck!
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Last edited by BIGBOS; Mar 3, 2004 at 01:52 PM.
Sorry to hear that there was another cog belt hacking today

J
All 3 pins are MIA, with some nice scratches around the area, where the bolt thread marks used to be from where I did the original damage w/the 8 rib stuff are now scared with the pin marks from this setup...
I didn't have the right extension to turn the crank bolt, but having a socket a little bit on there it was able to turn some.....didn't back out too far, but the pulley is free spinning.....looks like I might have to tow it after all...........

My 100 piece craftsman at the house isn't cutting it.........



