broke motor on boost
03-24-2002, 09:44 PM
#1
broke motor on boost I either cracked a ring/ringland. Have oil coming out of valve cover breather under boost. I think im gonna get a set of pistons and 6.0 heads from valvegod and go back after it. I was having a terrible time with ls1edit on TOP of a ed wright pcm. Next time ill start with a fresh flash. Anyone pulled the motor from the top yet?
03-24-2002, 09:56 PM
#3
Re: broke motor on boost Nooo! thats not what i wanted to hear from you!
Man, i feel for you, that sucks! <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />
Well this gives you an exuse to make more power.
I better be real careful i cant afford an engine rebuild.
Man, i feel for you, that sucks! <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />
Well this gives you an exuse to make more power.
I better be real careful i cant afford an engine rebuild.
03-24-2002, 10:15 PM
#4
Re: broke motor on boost Harlan i think it was fuel delivery. I always had great luck tuning with my o2s after referencing them at the dyno. They only seemed reliable in 4th gear at the track. Today they were all over the place...and i probably ran it too lean. i drove home and still outran a lexus <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I am broke at the moment so I will probably slap in a rod/piston set from valvegod....maybe a tick thicker gasket and some 6.0 heads. I do not need ANY more power. My goal was to start working on the turbotech exhaust....fromt the manifold all the way back so i could make the same hp on less boost but now that has changed. It will live again...I gotta start with a fresh pcm next time...i was having a helluva time trying to tune Eds pcm with the ltrims locked and setup for 36# injectors. Live and learn....funny part is..Im still on the stock 10 bolt...whoda thunk it!
03-25-2002, 01:02 AM
#6
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Re: broke motor on boost yanking the motor from the top is no biggie <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> , but if you drop it from below it would be sooo much easier.
03-25-2002, 07:34 AM
#7
Re: broke motor on boost I dont have access to a lift so from the bottom is out of the question.
Harlan..Shaun has the rods/pistons in stock i do believe. If not, I will definitely be emailing you. I wish pistons didnt cost so much. At my power level, I wish I could put some dished pistons on my rods. Just gotta figure out what I'm going to do now. Just not looking forward to yanking the motor. I've done tons on older vehicles but this one looks to be a pain.
Harlan..Shaun has the rods/pistons in stock i do believe. If not, I will definitely be emailing you. I wish pistons didnt cost so much. At my power level, I wish I could put some dished pistons on my rods. Just gotta figure out what I'm going to do now. Just not looking forward to yanking the motor. I've done tons on older vehicles but this one looks to be a pain.
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03-25-2002, 08:09 AM
#8
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Re: broke motor on boost sorry to hear that maybe you want have to bore the block and just change pistons btw you are alot better off coming out the bottom if you have a trailer come over and I will help I have a lift and tools can have out in about 3 hrs I have taken out about 15 of them anyway got to go out of town let me know if I can help. thanks tony
03-25-2002, 09:37 AM
#9
Re: broke motor on boost Tony I WILL take you up on that. I can drive it over there. I need to look at harlans pics to see what it looks like coming out from the bottom. If i dont have to rebore, Ross 9:1 pistons with rings would cost about 800 bux. I'm still trying to decide what route to go but first i need to get the motor out and see what kinda shape its in.
<small>[ March 25, 2002, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: cablebandit ]</small>
<small>[ March 25, 2002, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: cablebandit ]</small>
03-25-2002, 09:40 AM
#10
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Re: broke motor on boost Pulling it from the top is very simple.Just unbolt everything and yank it out.
Getting it back in is a bit more work <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
But I left the trans installed which made it more difficult.
Even so, me and my 13 year old son as a helper had the motor in and fully bolted up to the trans in around 4 hours going in from the top.
Didn't even remove my hood.
Steve
Getting it back in is a bit more work <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
But I left the trans installed which made it more difficult.
Even so, me and my 13 year old son as a helper had the motor in and fully bolted up to the trans in around 4 hours going in from the top.
Didn't even remove my hood.
Steve
03-25-2002, 10:11 AM
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Re: broke motor on boost cable e-mail me at karsinc@earthlink.net tonight when you want to come over I can sat. or sunday which one is best for you I am 2hrs from north atlanta I will give you directions later thanks
03-25-2002, 06:59 PM
#14
Re: broke motor on boost thats what mind did.. broke ringland, much blowby out the oil fill hole like a freight train.
tough break dude..
here's mine.. copy and paste.
http://community.webshots.com/storag...cfKarRh_ph.jpg
<small>[ March 25, 2002, 07:00 PM: Message edited by: MIGHTYMOUSE ]</small>
tough break dude..
here's mine.. copy and paste.
http://community.webshots.com/storag...cfKarRh_ph.jpg
<small>[ March 25, 2002, 07:00 PM: Message edited by: MIGHTYMOUSE ]</small>
04-01-2002, 01:00 PM
#15
Re: broke motor on boost how much boost were you running?
I have/had the same problem. Oil shooting out of my dipstick tube. I just pulled my engine apart Saturday. I figured it was the pistons too because I ran real lean (14.2:1) until I put the bigger injectors in. But it wasn't the pistons. It was the heads. I lifted the heads. It stretched the head bolts and allowed the head to rise. The head gasket doesn't look like it was blown out just raised up between the bore and lifter valley. I also found my crank pulley spinning on the crank. Also found rod bearing damage on the bearing half in the rod. I've been told its from the boost pressure slamming the rods down on the crank. I'm going to use clevite hardened rod bearings and stud the heads. I'm also going to use stronger rod bolts from Kaytech.
I have/had the same problem. Oil shooting out of my dipstick tube. I just pulled my engine apart Saturday. I figured it was the pistons too because I ran real lean (14.2:1) until I put the bigger injectors in. But it wasn't the pistons. It was the heads. I lifted the heads. It stretched the head bolts and allowed the head to rise. The head gasket doesn't look like it was blown out just raised up between the bore and lifter valley. I also found my crank pulley spinning on the crank. Also found rod bearing damage on the bearing half in the rod. I've been told its from the boost pressure slamming the rods down on the crank. I'm going to use clevite hardened rod bearings and stud the heads. I'm also going to use stronger rod bolts from Kaytech.
04-01-2002, 02:16 PM
#16
Re: broke motor on boost I was running 6-7 psi when i initially caused the damage. I think i ran lean. I'm probably going with the ross pistons on stock rods with arp bolts from ls1motorsports. I left a post in the sponsor section but noone else replied. Whats kicking my *** is the price of head bolts/studs....300 bux is frikkin crazy. I'd like studs with the new gm head gaskets. Maybe ill be driving again by 2months
04-01-2002, 09:01 PM
#18
Re: broke motor on boost </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by cablebandit:
<strong>I was running 6-7 psi when i initially caused the damage. I think i ran lean. I'm probably going with the ross pistons on stock rods with arp bolts from ls1motorsports. I left a post in the sponsor section but noone else replied. Whats kicking my *** is the price of head bolts/studs....300 bux is frikkin crazy. I'd like studs with the new gm head gaskets. Maybe ill be driving again by 2months</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I got head ARP head studs from Kaytech for $188
and rod bolts from Kaytech for $122.40
<strong>I was running 6-7 psi when i initially caused the damage. I think i ran lean. I'm probably going with the ross pistons on stock rods with arp bolts from ls1motorsports. I left a post in the sponsor section but noone else replied. Whats kicking my *** is the price of head bolts/studs....300 bux is frikkin crazy. I'd like studs with the new gm head gaskets. Maybe ill be driving again by 2months</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I got head ARP head studs from Kaytech for $188
and rod bolts from Kaytech for $122.40
04-02-2002, 05:42 PM
#19
Re: broke motor on boost Thanx for the heads up on Katech. Excuse my ignorance but do the studs come with the proper nuts/washers needed to use them? My understanding is that you basically screw the studs in hand tight and then torque the NUTS down. Is this correct?
04-02-2002, 08:08 PM
#20
TECH Fanatic
Re: broke motor on boost Yup, hand tight at the block. ARP says to clean the block threads good. Re-tap if necessary. You can use Red Loctite for permanent install as long as the threads don't go into the water jacket the tech said.. (LS1 doesn't go into the water jacket, eh??)
Watch the TQ specs.. The little ones are only 30 ft/lbs. Intake studs I think. The others are 65 ft/lbs. But this is with MOLY. More TQ if you use 30WT oil.
Watch the TQ specs.. The little ones are only 30 ft/lbs. Intake studs I think. The others are 65 ft/lbs. But this is with MOLY. More TQ if you use 30WT oil.