Lets talk about a reliable mid 11 sec FI setup on DR's..
He ran that, Incon TT, mild MTI Stage I head, stock cam I think, forged piston and maybe a stock rod but I think he had rods in it too.
MTI built him the car, his, along with Rod's were the most impressive to me, very little work, alot of power and a ton of reliability.
The build up cost him very little from what I remember him saying, stock valves and all that, hell it may have been a stock head.
11.50's on a DR will be hard, I ran 11.80's @ 127 on a DR and had a hard time doing any better than that.
IMO if your only shooting for 122mph I wouldn't build a big build FI motor, just a piston/rod and maybe a little clean up of the head. Rod runs 121 in good weather on a stock motor and I think he's close to 20K miles with the kit on the car.
It makes plenty of power for a stock motor + FI (470/488 dynojet) at 6psi, but the car weight and stock rear was the trouble. Didn't want to risk an et street. (Untill now that is <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ). I broke 1 torsen unit on a 2.1 60' as it was.
That single turbo from ls1 motorsports sounds very nice, and had I not had the incon kit; I would probably get one of those.
To run an 11.5 at my weight (3780 w driver) was going to require more tire. Thats the bottom line. Even my better 60' times 2.0 lol, and highest traps (123) couldn't break into the 11's at that weight. I would say that if I could have gotten the raceweight down to 3400-3500 and a few more traction mods, maybe.
At the time I was running 12.0-12.1 at 118-123 I had 275 nitto's, Metco lca's, slp phb, and BMR subframes for suspention mods.
I have now added a 12 bolt with 3.73's, the relocation brackets for the metco's, removed STB, and hope to install this week the lightweight battery and Hal adjustable shocks and struts (w. drag springs). I am saving for a torque arm, and am undecided about the removal of the frt swaybar.
I hope without the last 2 to run pretty consistant 11.5's at 120 or so. And if I can get the tuning right, may try to turn the boost up to 8psi, remove some more weight and try for a 10.9.
Hope this helps.
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i think is was around 11.22 i cant recall. this was on 15" BFG's.
not hard with enough power.
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Most all FI parts add up to a 100 pounds to the car right where it hurts, in the nose.
Another reason why its hard to compare a NA to a FI setup making similar hp numbers, is that there might be a heads/cam car making 420 rwhp, but I guarantee it wont make 450+ TQ. And definately not at the lower rpm ranges that FI cars will. Which takes us back to the traction issue.
I know I'm not the best driver, but I do ok. And I really dont think someone could jumpo right in my car and run an 11.5 on a dr. Maybe a 11.7 on a 15" BFG, but definately not on a 17" nitto.
On a good day at the track I wasn't getting any spin, just a good chirp on shifts. But, I only have 470-480 rwhp. Plus, I contend that at that HP level and a manual; rearend breakage will be a problem. Necessitating a 12 bolt or 9 in, and at that point you will run more tire than a dr anyhow.
Trust me, wheel spin at speeds above 45-50 on a 1-2 shift (if the track isn't hooking) is no fun. I dont like being almost at mid track and looking at the wall. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . Which happened both times I tried to run on street tires. And I bet 480 rwhp on a street tire and 600 on a dr = about the same amount of traction. NONE. lol
Have fun with, but realize that the car is safer with more tire, and more traction. Especially when wheelspin is an issue in the top of 2nd or even 3rd gear.
The FI is Golden West Performance D-1SC ATI Procharger running 9.5 to 10 PSI.
And by no means am I trying to belittle anyone running faster than I am, at 12.0; but a stick shift car isn't going to be anywhere near as quick as an auto with a DR on it. Unless you get the weight down. Or do something else to make it hook.
I wont say a word <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
7#'s of boost, rich tune, and a low 2.0 60'(easy on drag radials)
A 122 trap speed will not take that much boost to get there. In fact, a good set of heads, maybe a touch more cam, and the gears in a 12 bolt and you'll be pretty much there, both ET & MPH.
A nice 100 shot kit & heads and you'll easily make your goals and have no FI daily driving issues.


