I do not know what the difference is Mellow, but according to Lingenfelter they are working on a application for the f-body..

 

I was running 14psi with slow opening actuators, we were pushing the 5lb units to 14 lbs.

I made 500rwtq at 3000rpm and at 6200 was still making over 500ft lbs at the wheels, thats about as fat as it gets <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I'll dig out the graph and post it.

Ran pump gas all the time. My 14psi seems high for the power, but that was peak, since the actuators opened slow I actually saw 10psi at about 3500 then it would creep to 14, with the new actuators it should snap to 15(what we plan) and stay there, that should net 600rwhp on a Mustang dyno or 670ish on a Dynojet.

 

Do you have a stock bottom end NoOne..?

 

What does the dyno graph look like? Is it fat on the low end and flat on the top?

600 peak HP screams 9 second timeslips with a car setup for the dragstrip.

What kind of drivetrain do you have? <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

ARE 346 sounds like forged pistons w/stock crank.
Stock or forged rods?

 

Lunati Pro Billet Rods.

I honestly don't think you have much to worry about, FI is just a little different.

What would I have done different?

Went with a smaller/cheaper head, maybe the 6 liter without all the big port work, it doesn't really seem to make a huge overall difference for the dollars spent. However my heads were already done from the previous year so that was a wash anyways.

As I said in my email, look for a good Stage I head w/ upgraded valves and drivetrain. Stock crank is fine, the Pro Billet rods might even be overkill for my setup.

I went top of the line for everything because it was all new, now it seems engine trouble is the least of the FI problems, their very stout and holding up real well.

I've had zero engine trouble in about 14K miles so far, but I just got done replacing my 3rd scavenge pump <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Fuel system is going to be more important IMO. Here is what I would do:

346

Good Stage I Head w/ upgraded valves/springs

stock crank

Lunati Pro Mod Rods(cheaper)

ARE's Ross blower/turbo pistons, w/ stock head 8.75:1

Racetronix dual intank system, I believe I have the first or one of the first Ls1 units and its been fine, nice and quiet, no external noises.

42.5lb an hour injectors, or splurge for the 50's, alot more money and you can squeeze 600 out of the 42's but its close

Ram Cintered Bronze clutch and flywheel

12 bolt rear end

After all of this I'd rather keep the weight down than make power, I'd love to chop 300 lbs off the car rather than add 50hp but its too hard to do without compromising the creature comforts.

You can build a very affordable 600rwhp LS1 IMO that is very reliable. I think the only people who have blown up FI'd LS1's have had fuel system or tuning problems, the rest of us seem to be plugging along just fine.

If Azam is still around check out his setup, MTI buillt him a cheap forged piston/rod/stage I head combo that made 530 or so at the wheels.

 

I cant change my shortblock now. I have JE Pistons with valve reliefs. The only way I am going to lower my compression is with the heads. Stage 1's would be a lot cheaper. Can I get my old 5.7L heads down to a below 9.5:1 compression with the new gaskets. Run 2.02 x 1.60 valves..? 42.5lb injectors. Possibly change from 226 XE-R to a more suitable boost cam?

 

That's fairly similar to what I was planning on running. I'm still in the planning stages right now. I'm planning on running a Vortech (was going to go with a Procharger, but changed my mind) with 6.0L heads (to knock the compression down) and a custom ground cam. Later on I'm going with a 6.0L block (I feel better with iron than aluminum) and possibly a stroker crank, but am undecided. For fuel I'll probably run 42# injectors and Aeromotive fuel pumps for now, but will upgrade even further when the block gets changed out and the boost goes up. Lots of good info on here!

 

Eric, What turbos do you have with your Incon system.Thanks Carl

 

Eric has the 37's. What they are exactly is a mystery.

Considering my 35's where determined to be a gt25R (25/35 hybird) when i had them rebuilt.

FWIW, you guys are gonna have a tough time making 600+ rwhp on 42's. I was passing 95% on my 42's at 580. That's why i went to 96's <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Harlan dont you think now that your car is flowing better the 42's would work?

 

No matter how well the engine flows it must be matched with fuel.

42's is pushing at 600rwhp, but I'm just tired of pouring money into this thing.

The new actuators, a good 4 wheel alignment and its done.

In fact its track time is about done too. Once it gets retuned I'm bolting up the slicks, taking it to the track 2 or 3 times, beating the **** out of it and as soon as it goes low 130's or a 10.50 I'm done.

It's never going to go any faster than that with a 6 speed and I'm tired of listening to the whiney rear end. Once it makes its good pass at the track I'll put a new 3.42 in the back and tighten everything back up, even goto stock springs up front again.

I remember how it was when I first picked it up with the 12 bolt, nice and quiet, car sounded stock rolling down the road, now it screams, I'm ready to go back to nice and quiet.

I'll still goto the track but it'll make those 11.70 passes at 130 on DR's <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ June 16, 2002, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: NoOne ]</small>

 

I hear you.. I am just looking for a reliable fast setup. I think I am going to get there..

 

more flow makes the 42's even worse

no matter what setup you have, it all comes down to BSFC...

0.6 lb/hr/HP, no way around it. I use .6 as a safe guess.

600 RWHP is a rough 650 FWHP lets say. 650*.6/8 = 48.75 lb/hr on each injector, 100% duty cycle. even at 4 bar the svo 42's are 49 lb/hr. on the edge <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

get 50's or a converter and some lo-Z injectors <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

my 12 bolt is still quiet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

so what if i could hear the trans whine over the rear <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

My old LT1 turbo made 600rwhp on SVO 36s, 60psi fuel pressure. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Whatever setup it is it is pretty stout and it seems to work. Once all issues are ironed out I will start purchasing the forced induction stuff. I want working models before I try it..

 

at what 13:1 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

how long did it stay together terry? let me guess, dynojet?

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

 

Mine was OK, not exactly loud not exactly quiet but I always loaded the drivetrain at the track.

Tom took it to Norwalk a few weeks ago because I couldn't get out of work and I don't think he preloaded it, came back screaming.

My tranny has never given me too much problem in the noise department at all, I'll be very happy to get those new gears <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

hmmm....did some calculations.

I use the Lucas 42.5lb injectors these are rated at 43.5PSI.

For 650 Crank at 100%duty cycle and a BSFC of .6 and a fuel pressure of 58 PSI you'll need 42.3lb/hr injectors to cover that. Now that's at 100% duty cycle. No room left at all. This also assumes that you maintain enough fuel pressure to keep things at 58PSI. Meaning that you use a rising rate fuel regulator. At least 1 PSI for every lb of boost to compensate.

So...if you want to cheat a little you can raise your starting fuel pressure. Say start at 60PSI instead. That'll give you enough room to get away with it. There are some negatives to this but I don't think they're huge issues.

I have an external fuel pressure regulator on my setup so I can play with that pretty easily.