Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong>When will everything be in the car ready to go?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I got the stall converter back Friday, so I hope to put the motor and tranny back in today. I have to wait for my budy to bfing the engine puller over.

I will try to get it all together this week after I get off from work each day.

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black LS1 T/A:
<strong>I will try to get it all together this week after I get off from work each day.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's what sick days are for. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Can't wait to see your results.

Nickn20

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black LS1 T/A:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Carlitos:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RDF 2000 T/A:
<strong>I can't exactly tell but is that a C5R block or Iron Block. What are the specs on the motor like stroke, bore etc. and what's heads/cam did you decide to go with? That looks pretty awesome man! can't wait to see how it goes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Which would be better for boost, and why? Not too familiar with these other blocks. I know I've heard of heads lifting under too much boost/detonation. Will these blocks help this at all?...and again, why?

'Los</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">From what I understand, these aluminum blocks in our F-bodies don't hold up to a lot of power. Tht's why the iron block is a sort of budget (if you can call $14.9K budget) way of having a block that you can bore so big and make lots of power.

The C5R Aluminum block is supposed to have enough material to make it handle the power. So that, and being lighter weight, would make it the choice over an iron block. But... it is an even more expensive choice.

The aluminum heads tend to warp and allow the gaskets to blow. But, GWP o-ringed the block and put commetic gaskets in, which provides much better sealing. There are other ways to help some, I've heard... with different studs or bolts.

I'm not a real expert about it. I hope to learn more as I run this thing.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">what exactly does 15k get you?

Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by AzzHauler:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black LS1 T/A:
<strong>I will try to get it all together this week after I get off from work each day.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's what sick days are for. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Can't wait to see your results.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I use too many of them up to go out of town singing with my band. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Still, as the week wears on, I may just lose a day if the pressure is off for some software demos we have coming up.

Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">what exactly does 15k get you?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">422 CID Iron Block Chevy, O-ringed with custom grind Supercharger cam, forged internals, stroked crank, bored to 4.030", Stage III heads.

With the right Fuel System and Supercharger, it should put down 700+ RWHP and 600+ RWTQ on pump gas.

This motor (in Clay Loving's car) has already put down 693 RWHP and 611 RWTQ (corrected). It needs a better fuel system before they can rev it all the way to it's potential (bigger injectors for sure). Clay has the F2 Procharger, but I'm betting my D-1SC will give me a plenty power over here at sea level. Clay needs the extra air density at 5700' above sea level (Colorado).

Black LS1 T/A

OK... last night, after getting in late from work and putting off the NC State Fair until Sunday, I spent some time with my Black 'Gal.

I got the Tranny connectors, torque arm, bolts, crossmember, etc., etc., all done.
The Dipstick tube bolting back to the block was fun. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />

Helpful hint: if you do this on the floor (like me), remove the right-front wheel... SO much more comfortable to work! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

GWP was helpful on two issues associated with the Iron Block from GM:

1. The Outer Driver's side boss in the block is not drilled and tapped for the bolt that must hold the outer side of the Generator. A drill, bit, the right tap and voila... a bolt hole. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I would rather do this, so it matches my bolt hole precisely when I fit the generator to the block. I don't know if there may be a slight variance or not and am glad they left this up to me.

2. The ground wire on the starter cable bundle does not have the same bolt-hole on the side of the iron block as the aluminum block. Kenny gave me a perfect place to put it. There is a connector between the starter and the block and a sensor goes into the block, held in place by a 10mm bolt. I unscrewed the bolt, put the ground wire there and BAM... it worked perfectly.

I got the Generator and Power Steering Pump back in and the ATI SC bracket reinstalled. When I get on it again, I have to clean the water pump mating surfaces off and continue with putting that on.

About two and a half hours. Boy, I'm getting slow in my old age. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Nickn20

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black LS1 T/A:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">what exactly does 15k get you?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">422 CID Iron Block Chevy, O-ringed with custom grind Supercharger cam, forged internals, stroked crank, bored to 4.030", Stage III heads.

With the right Fuel System and Supercharger, it should put down 700+ RWHP and 600+ RWTQ on pump gas.

This motor (in Clay Loving's car) has already put down 693 RWHP and 611 RWTQ (corrected). It needs a better fuel system before they can rev it all the way to it's potential (bigger injectors for sure). Clay has the F2 Procharger, but I'm betting my D-1SC will give me a plenty power over here at sea level. Clay needs the extra air density at 5700' above sea level (Colorado).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">that seems kinda high for that motor, did they charge you like 8 grand in labor?

BLMONGOOSE

Congrats, That is going to be one bad *** setup once your thru with it. Iam thinking of getting that same system once I finish paying for my supercharger, which wont be for a while.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nickn20:that seems kinda high for that motor, did they charge you like 8 grand in labor?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hmmm...

I can't itemize everything they did to it, but...

Using your logic:

I know the "Stage III" custom aluminum heads cost their customers about $3500.00.

Just a 382 Stroker Kit runs between $3650.00 and $3995 from some places. Wonder what it would be for a 422?
They used studs instead of regular head bolts.
The used Cometic gaskets and o-ringed the block. How much is that worth?

What about the Iron Block? Should they give that away?

Does the machine shop do work for them for free when they bore the block?
What about the work that has to be done machining the clearances on the longer rods?

Also, the camshaft is a custom grind guaranteed to yield 20 to 30 more RWHP than a comparable grind on an FI setup.
Maybe they should just suck up the cost.

I guess they should put all this together for "zip", huh? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />
They had to pay people to do this work. Maybe the mechanics should feed their families from their part-time job at Dominoes Pizza.

Also, the customer support I've come to value at GWP is worth getting this motor from them than anyone else I've dealt with, so far.

What about the work they put into R&D'ing the setup? These things are ALWAYS high and come down over time.

Nickn20, if they built this motor for you for $6,900.00, not only would they not make a profit, they would be in the hole crazy big-time. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BLMONGOOSE:
<strong>Congrats, That is going to be one bad *** setup once your thru with it. Iam thinking of getting that same system once I finish paying for my supercharger, which wont be for a while.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks.. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> \

It's 7pm and I just got in from work.

I'm going back outside to the garage to do some more. Except for setting the 422 back in, I've done all the work myself. I've got the intake back on, so it's starting to look like a motor again.

EGR, hoses, connectors, radiator, fans, Supercharger and related parts... I have a ways to go, but see completion this week.

Black LS1 T/A

Even though I worked late today, I went to the garage and worked on it thru the night. I still worked slowly, because I didn't want to miss anything.

Anyway, the headers are uncapped, but I put my charged battery in, primed the fuel and kicked it.

I thought I'd hear some whirring and cranking, but it started right up. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> I cut it right back off. (That's my "if something is wrong, it's already off" technique.)

All seemed well.

I cranked it again and let it run for about 8 seconds and turned it off again. This time I got out to check fluid leaks. Guess what? A pool of oil! I crawled under the car. There is a plug, with a recessed-star screwhole, that screws into the block just above the oil filter, and sits flush with the block.

Wouldn't ya know it? ... everything put back together seemingly perfectly, and I missed one measely plug. Well, I went to my other block and swapped it over, but it was 4:15am and open headers in the garage over everybody sleeping is a bit much. So I kicked it over one more time just to hear her, and I cleaned up.

Well let me get an hour of sleep before I go to work. <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

I can change my siggy, now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ October 30, 2002, 11:21 AM: Message edited by: Black LS1 T/A ]</small>

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

One word comes to mind...'Awesome!' <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I know how it can be scary starting it up after doing some major work to it. But when it runs after you start it, then it's all worth while. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

You are still using the D-1SC on your 422? Any idea how much boost you are going to see? How is the idle quality of the 422? Solid roller or hydraulic? I hope you are getting a 12-bolt or 9-inch rearend. Are you going to have a bulletproof 4L60E or go to TH-400? I am in the mode to get a bore/stroker combo, but building it myself. Can't wait to see you dyno and track runs.

Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by AzzHauler:
<strong>One word comes to mind...'Awesome!' <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I know how it can be scary starting it up after doing some major work to it. But when it runs after you start it, then it's all worth while. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks, man! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Black LS1 T/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Gold Phoenix:
<strong>You are still using the D-1SC on your 422? Any idea how much boost you are going to see? How is the idle quality of the 422? Solid roller or hydraulic? I hope you are getting a 12-bolt or 9-inch rearend. Are you going to have a bulletproof 4L60E or go to TH-400? I am in the mode to get a bore/stroker combo, but building it myself. Can't wait to see you dyno and track runs.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jason and Kenny think it will be roughly the same because of the efficiency of the engine. That's why they want me to run the 4.10" pulley at first, instead of the 3.20" pulley. With the 4.10" I was seeing 4 to 5 PSI up to 6000 and 6 to 7 PSI at 6500. With the 3.20" pulley, I was seeing about 8 PSI instantly, rising to about 10 PSI around 6500 RPMs. They think, with only my Stage II fueling solution, the larger motor may be starved for fuel at 10 PSI... we don't want that! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I purchased the Mark Williams 12-Bolt rear end with Eaton Posi and put it in before I pulled the engine.

I still have the stock 4L60E. I hope I last this year, but if not... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

I believe you are thinking right about the stroker. Will it be a 382 or are you going big cubes?

<small>[ October 30, 2002, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Black LS1 T/A ]</small>

Black LS1 T/A

Well, even though I missed that plug, that was not the source of oil leak (spray is more like it). There was a hairline slit in the bottom of the oil filter. It's hard to see. Guess it was damaged in shipment.

I started to replace it anyway. I guess I will now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Malicious

iTrader: (1)

Can't wait to hear it run <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

highgmc

looks like it's coming along nice. I sold my ati and have a MTI 422 on the way and will be spraying it.

Black LS1 T/A

Drove my baby to work, today...

... she feels like a bottled genie with pent up power.

A Camaro pulled up and gunned it (Mustangs don't bother anymore), and I was very disciplined... I smiled and let him go.

I'm so good! <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />

Black LS1 T/A

Update about where I am at and issues I am dealing with:

At first it would only idle if I held the accelerator at about 900 rpms. At 900 RPMs, I have about 12 in of vacuum.

I bumped my idle up to about 950 with LS1-Edit. Then, it would idle in park, but if I put it in gear, I had to still use the 2-footed accelerator/brake technique. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

This is a big cam (let's see...specific numbers I can't give you because it is a proprietary grind, but it is bigger than most cams the guys in the Engine Section are posting about.

Then, I talked with Jason about drilling the about throttle body hole to about 13/64's. (This was expected... it is a BIG cam.) My first drill bit close to that is 3/16's (12/64ths), so I used that this morning.

Now, like magic, it stays cranked in neutral or in gear. However, I will see how low I can drop the idle speed to let it lope witout cutting off. Also, I want the in-gear idle speed to be a taad lower than the neutral idle speed, to give that illusion of it loading down that we're so used to. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Kenny and Jason are finalizing my LS1-Edit file while I cruise around during the break-in period. I'm not doing any WOT runs right now. I want to be tuned and ready by Thanksgiving (that's when the home-boys are doing a little 'test-n-tune'). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> That gives me plenty of time to break it in right.

The BIG problem I'm having right now... remember when I was complaining about my temps rising this summer when it never had before? Well, my fan must have been intermittently failing then... it's failed hard now. It doesn't come on at all. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> So I can only drive it when I can get up to cruise speed and not be in much traffic. I can't do the idle re-learn procedure until I replace the fan. 20 min of total idling (Drive w/o AC, Drive w/AC, Park w/AC, Park w/o AC) just ain't gona happen without a cooling fan. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Oh... and the PY3400 is much more streetable than the SY3500. But,the 422 and SC is supposed to make it stall about the same when I make a run... did I say I can't wait! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />