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Old 10-18-2002, 08:33 PM
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Default piston rings

i am building a 5.3 blower motor and was wondering what kind of piston rings and the gap.
thanks
Old 10-21-2002, 12:13 AM
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Default Re: piston rings

thanks for all the help forced induction is the greatest <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
Old 10-25-2002, 12:27 AM
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Sorry man it takes me a while to read all this stuff!!! <img border="0" alt="[pimp]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_pimp.gif" />

I dont't believe anyone knows all there is to know about PISTON RINGS.

Hey a racing engine builder spends a great deal of time trying to improve engine performance in this area. On racing engines before and after both dyno testing and actual races, with all things being equal, anytime the quality of the piston ring is improved, the engine will produce more power! <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

Every engine builder must learn how to gain an effective seal between the compression ring and the cylinder wall. And even more important between the compression ring and the piston groove. A engine builder that can not prepare the pistons, rings, and cylinderwalls, and subsequently break in of the engine to properly gain a very tight seal is a wast of his time!!

The compression ring and the oil scraper should be at least 1/16 inch wide. but to get good drain back the oil ring should be at least 3/16 inch wide. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> If you go to a compression ring that is 1/16 inch to a .043 inch wide is going to improve horsepower by very much but I am damn sure it will reduce reliability! Though.

The compression ring and the scraper ring must carry combustion heat from the pistion to the cylinder wall, and when you use a smaller ring there will be less capable of transfering heat. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Old 10-25-2002, 01:23 AM
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Default Re: piston rings

UNTAMED 00 SS BACK AGAIN!!!!! <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />

To get adequate oil return area with the kind of oil pressure and delivery rates typically used in a racing engine, you should have at least a oil ring that is at least 3/16 inch wide. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

The best ring combination for most endurance engines is nodular-iron, molyfaced compression ring. The scraper ring should be moly faced because a moly ring is superior under almost all conditions. Also moly faced rings provides quick seating and a short break-in period. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

Always remember that if you ever have a racing engine built that engine builder 75% of the time will not even check the sidewall clearance. Many engine builders do not fully understand that how important this area is.

When the ring is fully compressed in the grove the face of the land should be just flush with the land surfaces. There can be as much as 0.010 inch of extra clearance, but if the back clearance gets up to .040-0.050 inch then the rings won't be forced tightly against the cylinderwall by the operating pressure.

A standard 1/8 inch nodular iron top ring the vertical clearance should not exceed 0.002. The reson why I say this is because the ring will leak like hell! And if it is much tighter, the ring won't be free to turn in the grove. "HEY" The rings have a tendency to turn in the groove when the piston changes direction at the top and the bottom of the stroke, and they must be allowed to turn freely. This will also clean the carbon off of the top groove and leaves the ring free to expand as the combustion pressure enters the groove!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />



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