Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

The profec B is known somewhat for that issue. My suggestion would be to possibly replace it with a different boost controller. Obviously with it switched off you mentioned that it operates normally. I'd be worried your going to detonate on the spike.

Apexi and Blitz both make excellent controllers but the good ones aint cheap ($500+) but that problem would be eliminated.

HTH, good luck.

ChevyNo1

That's exactly it . . . I can't use it at the track because it spikes really bad between shifts. It's OK on the freeway as long as I watch the boost and get into it slowly.

- Dug

ChevyNo1

If I ditch the Profec-B, would this work? Anyone running it or anything similar?

Boost Controller

- Dug

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

There is a guy on here that sells them for around $20, mine is in the mail, he said, i should get it soon.
I dont have his adress with me right now but i can get it to you tomorrow.
i think he goes by SS00Blue
its a granger ball and check valve, you can make them your self pretty cheap, but for the $20 id just get his.

<small>[ October 28, 2002, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: smokinHawk ]</small>

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

the turbonetics unit is just an adjustable air pressure regulator placed in the wastegate line to cut down the boost signal. these can be had very cheap at your local hardware store, i have them laying all around work.

ChevyNo1

I'm having boost spike issues . . . I've got an Incon TT with 5psi actuators. I'm also running a Greddy Profec-B. I know the spiking is because of the controller; when I bypass it the spike is nominal. What are my options? I have it set all the way to sharp, but if I am at lets say 4000rpm in 4th and I nail it, it spikes wayyyyy to high! If I get into the throttle until it hits 7psi ( where I want it to stop ) and then go WOT, it's OK. Any and all ideas are welcome!

- Dug

SS00Blue

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by smokinHawk:
<strong>There is a guy on here that sells them for around $20, mine is in the mail, he said, i should get it soon.
I dont have his adress with me right now but i can get it to you tomorrow.
i think he goes by SS00Blue
its a granger ball and check valve, you can make them your self pretty cheap, but for the $20 id just get his.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yup. I do make that, but it has a tee instead of a 90, for boost monitoring equipment. I only charge $20 + shipping UPS ground. Only thing is, I've had one made for weeks, but I've been so busy, I can't get to UPS to send it to the poor guy that's been waiting on it. My apologies to Smokin'. He's been very patient with me. (It's going to UPS today, I give you my word, unless the "hit-by-a-bus" thing goes down. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> )

However, I can turn one around to you for twenty, in a week. I've recently finished my projects at work, so I should have more time now.

Do I sound like Harlan, or what? (Sorry, Matt) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

SC

<small>[ October 29, 2002, 04:49 AM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

red ws6 99

Dug did you try using the boost controller that is built into the stage II computer. Its looks fairly easy to setup.

Gary

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

I was starting to worry, alittle. im hoping it comes soon, i have to kill a heads and cam T/A at the track sunday. He gets to have slicks, i got to run in my nittos.

ChevyNo1

Gary, I didn't think it was operational . . . I thought that was one of the things that was slated for future upgrades. Any idea on how to work it??

- Dug

ChevyNo1

I just fixed my problem! There are 4 dipswitches on the back, for 4 different configurations. Two are for actuator type, two are for external wastegates. The guy who installed it had mine set to 'Actuator type'. But one of the other configurations is actuator type when overboosting occurs. I looked in the manual, set the switches for that, and voila! I get max .5psi spiking now!! If I only knew it would be that simple!!

- Dug

red ws6 99

Not sure did not try it yet. It looks like its referenced to rpm, maf (load) and boost. You tell it how long the boost solenoid (leak) should stay open.

If it works you can leave with no boost or a lot. You can could also have it close the boost solenoid during your shift, well as long as you shift at the same rpm area all the time. If you dont you could wire up a relay to cut the boost solenoid when you shift.

I should have my car operational possibly by the end of November, so I will let you know. I will be using a Buick GN boost solenoid ($10) to try it out.

Gary

SS00Blue

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by smokinHawk:
<strong>I was starting to worry, alittle. im hoping it comes soon, i have to kill a heads and cam T/A at the track sunday. He gets to have slicks, i got to run in my nittos.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I sent the UPS track number to your e-mail. And I DO apologize.

Thanks. Let me know how you like it. I used it on a 22PSI Talon and in never spiked, AT ALL. It went right to full boost and stopped dead. It was great for a few bucks, it worked better than the electronic units.

SC-