y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

The turbo tech kit never had a check valve between the TB and the stock PCV valve. The PCV valve was not meant to deal w/ positive pressure.

Normally the PCV valve operates based on a pressure differential between crankcase and the intake. Lower on the intake and higher on the crankcase and the PCV opens.

Apply pressure to the valve and it will open in the wrong direction. It's just not strong enough to stay closed. That's why you add a check valve between the PCV and the TB.

I see a decent amount of crankcase pressure, but at 750+ FWHP that's expected. I haven't put in my baffeled catch can yet, so i do get some oil out of my breather vent.

BTW, the stock valvecover baffling is crap. That's part of the problem. Doesn't do a great job of letting the vapor out, but keeping the oil in.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

its funny, george at turbotech actually sent me an 'incon' valve, same one from the tt kits. it seemed to work fine for me when i had the old kit.

the stock pcv system fails to reach the mark in stock form let alone on an fi application

the crank pump does the same thing as the stock pcv system, except it does it at wot too, which is where i think its needed most.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

DOes anyone know where i can get this check valve?

SS00Blue

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by y2khawk:
<strong>Apply pressure to the valve and it will open in the wrong direction. It's just not strong enough to stay closed. That's why you add a check valve between the PCV and the TB.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly why this Krank Vent works. It's a bonified check valve instead of a flimsy plastic piece...

Krank Vent

Example Install

SC-

<small>[ December 07, 2002, 09:12 AM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

SJH

I use the stock 98 pcv system with a brass check valve from McMaster Carr .
My oil separator is made from a stainless cylinder with a removable cap.
It is baffled and filled with K&N open cell filter foam.
I have no troubles with oil getting by or crankcase pressure.
Maybe a drop or 2 will get by the fresh air vent at WOT, but it's plumbed right into the blower inlet so there is probably a nice suction pull on it when the blower is spining 60,000rpm.
And I run .026" top and .028" 2nd ring gaps.
Steve

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

ok now i remember that info about the check valve.

Now any one now how to wire the air pump up. i installled it this week, but to save time i hooked it up to the original plug, so it turns on and off for EGR purposes.
Does this need to stay on all the time, or at certain RPM like mightymouse has?

i weighed the pump, without brackets its 2.5lbs.
with brackets its 5lbs.

2FAST4U

Smokinhawk what where you runing for crankcase breather, and any oil problems? I need help Bad! This air pump idea is not going going to work on my car.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

I put in a second PCV in line, Also I used a PCV from a Viper insted! Working so far!

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

i tried putting a breather cap and an air filter (with catchcan) inline the pvc, didnt work to well.
Im temped to try the check valve and see if that will work.
right now im trying the air pump idea, just got toget it wire right.
Why wont the air pump idea work for you?

2FAST4U

I wound need to remount the air pump some where no room under the car in the stock area. My problem is not oil in the intake it is too much crankcase press. I used the metco breather and oil every where! I want too run extra PCVs put to where and if it is to the intake then I will need more check valves! I don't understand the idea of a 2nd inline PVC too fix the crankcase problem but it should fix the oil intake problem. I still need help with my problem. CRANKCASE PRESS.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

my pump is now mounted on the passenger side opposite the stock location, look for room there

smokin, just get a relay and a switch, and turn it on by grounding the relay with a throttlebody mounted switch, you saw my pics right?

you really want this to run at wot, it wont run at all after the car warms up the way you have it.. but is better than nothing.. where do you have it discharging too and can you feel air suction where you have the filter or whatever letting air into the engine at?

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

2fast4u,
I dont have oil in my intake anymore, because of the airfilter that i put in, but still have problem with crankcase pressure just like you.
I put the breather cap on the oil cap, and onther small filter on the valve cover vent, but still get oil spitting ut of the system. It leaks at the air filter inline the PVC and fills up the filter catch can quickly. out the oil cap and out the dipstick when i realy get on it,

I'll post some pics of were i put the pump tonight. It fit right next to the battery, when i took off the brackets to the pump. it fit pretty good.

Mightymouse, right now the way i have it wired it runs for a while then shuts off (lot of good that does) but im not sure about hooking up the switch to the throttle, looks a little complex, and id end up screwing it up. so i was thinking of A: having it run all the time the car is on. will there be a problem with this?
or B: getting a window switch and having it turn on at 3k rpm or something.

ANd back to the check valve. Is Mcmaster cars cheaper then that one that costed $125 in the link above? dont feal like spending that much for a little valve. This goes inline the pvc right? that way when engine sees boost it will close the PVC line?
and with this check valve installed will i still have oil trying to make it up the pvc line, hence the need for a catch can?

Black LS1 T/A

The McMasters check valve was $10 or $15 bucks, I believe. Their shipping is superfast, too.

part# 7775K52

Also, check ou the discussion in this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...;f=20;t=001117

2FAST4U

I was talking to some of the turbo GNX guys and they where saying go with extra PCVs,t-tap off the valve cover port. There are no other ports in the throtle body. One person said to the intake air filter I will need to use another check valve. ANd how do I know how many extra PCVs to use?

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

Just got off the phone with Greg at DSI. He was telling me to try venting all the pvc lines. So cap were it comes into the intake and put breathers on the vavle covers were the lines used to be. Think he said thats what Harlan does.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

ya i remember that one.
thans blackls1ta
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black LS1 T/A:
<strong>The McMasters check valve was $10 or $15 bucks, I believe. Their shipping is superfast, too.

part# 7775K52

Also, check ou the discussion in this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...;f=20;t=001117</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

2FAST4U

Hey I talked to Phill at DSW and he was saying that the check valves close as soon as the boost gauge goes to 0 when air will not move out the line. So what you say sounds good I will do it now. THANKS for posting this!

2FAST4U

It works I blocked off the port at the throtle body and let the PCV tube lay unhooked atop the engine and it worked!!! There is still a very very small amount off oil driping from the tube but I can live with that for now! I may run the tube to a catch can with a breather just to keep things clean. Thanks everyone for the help!

LS1Bird

Having just put ATI's D1-SC on my stock LS1, is this PCV stuff anything I should be worried about??

Thanks in advance,

Mike M

BIGBOS

What are the usual signs of a bad PCV valve?

I checked mine today, and there wasn't noticeable oil shooting out of it, but I put a rag on the inside and got some black stuff...I also tried unplugging it while the car was running and the idle seemed to shoot waaaaaay up so I plugged it back in...