Guys,

I have never owned a blower car. Always did NA buildups when I wanted to go fast. I am looking at an '01 SS that has the Vortech 9psi kit very nicely installed. Car has only 8600 miles and is pretty much showroom. Car is otherwise 99% stock (no powertrain strengthening).

I am seriously thinking about getting it. However, what are the plusses and minusses of a blown car? It may do a bit of "daily driver" duties (but garaged). I do not intend to take it to the track much, rather just be a Sat. night cruiser and Ford Mudstain humiliator on the street.

I know the car has not been thrashed. The former owner traded it in on a Z06, but I contacted him directly. Since he's not the one selling, he has nothing to lose by being honest. The news was all good: 50 years old, well-to-do, and NEVER took it to the track. He said he only stood on it on the street a handfull of times even. He said he always adhered to the guidance of driving below 2500 RPM for the first 4-5 minutes to let everything warm up.

Anyway, you more experienced guys: what is your advice?

Thanks in advance,
Todd

 

As long as it isnt a high psi and its installed right it should be ok for a while, any fuel mods?
It will need things in the neer future, like rear, clutch,tires ect,
Good luck, FI is #1 <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

 

Well, I did it. Picked up the car I was looking at. A 2001 SS, fully loaded, with the Vortech 9 PSI unit w/after cooler very nicely installed. The original owner was a 50 yr old gentleman who owns a couple body shops and is a serious car-crafter. He put only 8700 miles on the car. It has never been driven in rain and is absolutely showroom. The underside, engine compartment, interior, etc. are all super clean and flawless. I cannot find a single scratch in the paint or on the wheels. It is essentially a new car with a blower.

I will NOT be taking it to the track as it still has the stock clutch and rear end.

Other mods: ASR reversal switch, pro 5.0 shifter, shift light, and the SLP SS exhaust has been beautifully custom modified with the replacment of the muffler with nice stainless 3" pipe. (looks killer). The bottom of the airbox has also been nicely cut out (I think it the "free air" mod)

For my standards, the car is powerful. My '94 Z28 has 422 crank HP (346 RWHP), and this feels like 500. I will get a dyno on it soon. The original owner was not concerned with dyno numbers or track times. He just wanted to do a cool project. He traded it in on a brand new Vette for his wife and I bought it from the dealer just a couple days later, but not before speaking with the original owner first. He said he's only stood on the throttle a handful of times. Anyway, now I am not only a member of the LS1 crowd, but also an FI car owner.

Todd

 

How much will a dealership knock off the price of the trade in when the car has a supercharger on it, w/other mods?

I assume that dealership got that car for cheap, either way, its a good deal for you... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

The original owner, while a really nice guy, would not tell me how much the dealer gave him on his trade-in for the new Vette. He buys a car from them every couple years, and is very loyal. I have to respect that. The sticker on the car was $31,150. The Vortech kit was $6,000 and the cost of a professional install (the orig. owner is a professional) would run about $2,000. The car also has the pro 5.0 shifter, shift light, nicely customized exhaust, and SLP ASR reversal switch.

The car will NOT be seeing the track anytime soon. It still has the stock clutch and rearend. Bench racing: it feels like a high-11 sec car. I have a mid-12 sec. LT1 and I can say this car is very clearly faster. SOTP or "butt dyno" as High Tech Performance calls it indicates about 500 crank HP. I will dyno it within a few weeks.

I picked up the car for a little under bluebook (of a stock car). Like I said, the car is essentially "new" with 8700 miles and clean as a whistle. It came with original Chevrolet and SLP window stickers, and all of the manuals/install guides for the modifications. I'm very happy with the purchase.

Noyzee, the fuel systems has been completely upgraded with a T-rex elec. pump and bigger injectors. It was all part of the Vortech kit, which is very complete. The computer has also been re-tuned for the blower.

Todd

 

Congrats!!

You got an awesome deal.
Learn all about FI to keep her tuned and running right and you should stay happy.

 

you should be fine at the track with the kit, just don't luanch that beast. So far every vortec ls1 i have seen has had no problems. Plus they have the 8 rig system which is a plus.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by TWS:
Are there a couple more mods I can do to get a little more power? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Heads, cam, and headers.
Also, change the supercharger pulley from 3.125" to 2.75". That should put you solid in the mid 10's.


Enjoy! <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" />

 

That might be a little too much stress for the stock bottom end.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That might be a little too much stress for the stock bottom end..</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Oh yeah. And keep $4000 cash in the bank for your bottom end fund. That's very important.
<img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

 

If you mod it, you'll need to re-tune the computer.

 

Thanks for the input guys. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I did not phrase my question properly.

I'm looking for a couple small mods that 1. don't cost much (I just paid cash for the car and am going to be short on $ for a while) 2. Don't require getting the computer retuned again.

what about just going with an aftermarket MAF? Guess that would require a tune, huh? Anyone done that, what was the result?

 

If you do anything like heads, cam, headers, anything that will effect the A/F you will need a custom tune. An aftermarket MAF causes alot of problems for people even if they tune for it. You could do some other things to make it faster or more reliable. Drag radials, subframe connectors, lower control arms, clutch, rearend, drive shaft, or stuff like that.

 

You're right. I have not launched it from a dead stop. Have only nailed it a few times from about 30 MPH in second gear and WOW! <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

I will never launch it until the clutch and rear have been similarly enhanced. Otherwise I'd better be ready to get towed home.

Have a question for folks with Vortech experience: are there a couple more mods I can do to get a little more power? The underside of the airbox was already nicely done by the original owner. How about raising the airbox with washers like most of the guys here are doing (although they have NA motors)? Also would an aftermarket MAF help? I called Vortech and the guy I spoke to was really kinda conservative. He said that my programming would be affected and basically advised me not to change a thing. I know that my LT1's computer could adapt to small mods without reprogramming buy have no exp. with LS1 cars. What do you guys say?

thanks in advance,
Todd

 

Guys,
thanks for the input. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> However, most of the suggestions don't fit my immediate "strategy" for the car. Those are all the major basic things we do when seriously building up a street brawler/strip car, and I have already considered and rejected them. I already have that type of car in my '94, where virtually everything is modified to make the power, take the power, and put the power on the pavement.

This car is really in "new" showroom condition and I do not want to flog it at the track or start unbolting everything. I do that regularly with my '94. (which is also in great shape, I faithfully maintain her. However, when something breaks it's just another day at the track, not something to get upset about). What I do want to use it for is Saturday night cruising, entering it in car shows (the blower and handfull of other mods make it unique enough in my opinion) and occasionally blowing the doors off pesky Mustangs on the street from a roll.

So, as you can see from my plans for how the car will be used, no further mods are absolutely required. The F1's cope decently if I get up to 30 MPH or so before leaning on the throttle, so I see no immediate need to pull off most of the mint condition stock suspension pieces, nor do I need to try and be Godzilla by doing heads and cam in addition to the blower. I know guys like that. They break stuff ALL THE TIME. They have as much money in their car as in their house. Not that there's anything wrong with that, I just can't afford to go that route right now.

What I'm really looking for, I guess, should not be called mods, perhaps "tweaks". Just a couple small inexpensive things to do that may pick up a few more HP (really just to make my dyno sheet more impressive and a little insurance if I run into a Viper on I-35). From your very informed suggestions, it seems that there may not be any of these "tweaks" out there that are left to be done to my car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> I think that when I take her to the dyno, I will ask one of the local F-bod guys if I can borrow their aftermarket MAF. I'll do dyno pulls with the stock piece and with theirs and see what happens. If the aftermarket MAF adds power, then I'll get one. If not, then Vortech was right and it won't add anything without changing the computer tune.

Anyway, if we have overlooked anything please let me know. Thanks!

 

Don't change your MAF. It will throw off the entire A/F ratio and program.

Consider a performance air filter if you'd like to pick up more power if it doesn't have one yet. A higher gear ratio can really bring an SC to life also.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> nor do I need to try and be Godzilla by doing heads and cam in addition to the blower. I know guys like that. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Godzilla! Well I never. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
I resemble that remark. <img border="0" alt="[bomb]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" />

<img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

 

do ported throttle bodies help any on forced induction? You could also look into some headers, those help nicely with forced induction.