This probably belongs in Internal Engine but I think it would apply more to the people here.

Is this possible?

Reason I ask is, I took the heads off, had everything checked out and I did not blow a head gasket as I had thought. It seems that I stretched the stock GM bolts in the rear quarter of the driver head to where the head lifted under boost, leaked, then sealed back down good enough for idle and low RPM.

I was told by someone at Katech they had seen this happen before, the head will seep under boost then settle back down.

For those with MLS gaskets already who may run into this kind of problem with stock bolts, can you replace the bolts with studs without removing, cleaning and resurfacing the deck?

If so this may be a good precaution for those running boost. When I took the passenger side apart it took a breaker bar and fair amount of effort to loosen all the head bolts. On the driver side it only took decent effort to loosen the front 2/3s of the bolts, the 2nd to last center bolt towards the back wasn't even tight with the breaker and the rest came off easily, that is where I was gettng the steam from before I put the car away for the winter.

 

You can't retorque factory head bolts they are stretched...

What does your engine builder reccomend, pull that other head too and then install the new head studs?

I am gonna use Dave/Formulation's heads studs since I am shooting for 20 lbs of boost and I want to run that boost for 1-2 years before I need to pull the block to inspect the main bearings.

 

Maybe you should have just retorqued the drivers side head, sometimes head bolts will lose torque settings after some use. Sounds like there really wasn't a problem. I find it hard to believe that the bolts were streched by boost. have you seen and detonation?

 

Dave,

No detonation at all, no signs of it and I was religious on watching it and the knock sensors, not a bit.

Either way I did want to take it apart to inspect everything, my post was more for those who may currently be getting into or coming up on a possible situation like this, if they could re-do things without removing and cleaning the deck/heads.

 

Do not reuse the head gaskets. Once they are decompressed the fire ring won't retain integrity under compression. When the fire ring is compressed it conforms to the surfaces, like a foot print.

Bottom line is you'll probably have to suck it up, Eric. And post up if you get the studs on and the head seated without dropping the k-member. I'd be interested if that's possible.

SC-

 

I don't think everyone understands what I am saying.

I've already disassembled the motor and have new head gaskets and studs.

My question was for others who may be in the same situation, or think they may end up with the same problem, could they replace the bolts with studs without having to do anything else, one bolt out, one stud in, before they have a problem.

The studs go in just fine, you put the head on then thread in the studs.

I'm just waiting for the new turbo's to show up in order to put it back together.

<small>[ April 06, 2003, 11:25 AM: Message edited by: NoOne ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NoOne:
<strong> I don't think everyone understands what I am saying.

I've already disassembled the motor and have new head gaskets and studs.

My question was for others who may be in the same situation, or think they may end up with the same problem, could they replace the bolts with studs without having to do anything else, one bolt out, one stud in, before they have a problem.

The studs go in just fine, you put the head on then thread in the studs.

I'm just waiting for the new turbo's to show up in order to put it back together. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, you can replace the bolts with studs without having to do anything else. Bolts aren't worth a damn, when it comes to high horsepower app's. I would highly recommend that you at least chase and clean the threads in the block before you install them. You will need to have the heads off the short block because you will need to thread locker them in, so they don't back out. Thread locker "red" is also recommended to keep the studs in place. It's not the same as using head bolts, and it can be a bitch to get the heads off with studs. It's tight under the windshield. I've been building circle track motors for a little over thirteen years. I wouldn't redeck the heads, it weakens the cylinder head and then you'll have leaks and blown head gaskets. The only time you'd want to redeck heads is when you are trying to equalize compression ratio, even then we go out of our way to avoid doing it like that. Just make sure the surface finish of the heads and block is free from foreign matter and would provide a good sealing surface. You can clean the surface with a 3M scour pad, or a Scotch Brite pad. Just keep it clean.

<small>[ April 06, 2003, 12:12 PM: Message edited by: sawedoff ]</small>