Help me pick a mild blower cam
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Help me pick a mild blower cam Hey guys i'm installing a A&A P1SC kit on my 02 Z06. I have to pull the heads and cam to install the stock parts such as the stock LS6 heads and the stock LS6 cam. I figures since i have to pull the cam maybe i can install something better than the LS6 cam. I'm not looking for a lumpy idle or anyhting. Just a mild cam that can make more power than the LS6 cam under the curve. I'm not looking for any custom grinds either since the buildup is on a budget-something off the shelf that would great. Have the B1 cam in mind (221/221 283/283 .558/.558 114+4) or this cam by comp 220/220 (273/273) .564/.564 114+4 or this Lunati 222/228 (272/278) .567/.567 113+4. Boost will be limited to no more 9 lbs since this is on the stock bottom end. I would have used the search but it's still not working-thanks for your help!
There are allot of people going back to the LS6 cam for the under the curve numbers..it is one of the best bang of the buck cams for FI cars .....MM is going back to the LS6 cam and he should be around the 1000rw mark (turbo) this coming spring....and there are a few other guys going with it.....what did Andy say for a cam? he should no the best or ECS as you no there are the best when it comes to FI the vetts....
Why the P and not the D....and are going with Alky as well
Why the P and not the D....and are going with Alky as well
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I need to have something that will not lope much at idle-something stealth. The B1 walks all over the LS6 and has alot of bottom end grunt so i figured with 8 lbs of boost it should be killer over the LS6. I need something that doesn't spin to the moon-has power right off idle.
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Originally Posted by mdhmi
224/228 .581/.588 114 LSA.
I love it! It has just enough lope to be noticable but nothing over the top! Great power down low which is exactly what I wanted out of the cam.
i have a 02 Z28 with stock heads and a p1sc-1 6psi 220/224/568-568-114 it made 480rwhp 453 tq 18 degree timing car was very hot 135 iat 225 water temp on a dyno jet idle is great.
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Typically The A&A kit's on a 02 and up Z06's make around 600 rwhp at 6600 rpm with the stock LS6 cam. Torque is usally around 475-500. I'm looking for something that will make power sooner and more torque and still be be very stealth.
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Originally Posted by TrakDay
Thats the same cam that made 550rwhp/457rwtrq on my GTO with a D1SC, LTs, Exhaust at 8.5psi!
Mike
you can go with a 218/224 cam, that'll give you the grunt you want with a perfect idle.
as you go 224 duration and higher the powerband shifts upward to the higher rpms.
you can go also maybe try a 220/224.
Originally Posted by engineermike
I don't mean to offend, but did you run the 11.9 at 120 with 550 rwhp? I'm asking because I ran 10.40 at 133 mph with 550 rwhp at 3700 lb. Just curious. . .
Mike
Mike
I just need more practice and I think it will run bottom 11s as it sits on a 1.7xx 60ft. The car also needs a retune, I did a pulley swap and I think when I pulled timing and added fuel I threw the tune a little out of whack!
If you can afford it, how about a solid roller? Something around a 230/236 or 236/240 on a 114LSA would be nice. Net lift around .600". A 230/236 solid roller is like a 222/228 hyd roller. You get a cam that idles like a small hyd roller but has power like a hyd roller about 8 degrees bigger.
I have a CC solid roller but I'm not running as high a boost as you will, so I went with a 230/236 on 112LSA. It idles smoothly at 750rpm, and revs easily until the cam + boost runs out around 6500. CC makes some nice solid roller lifters and you can have them grind any Xtreme Street Roller lobe profile(s) onto any LSA for less than $400.
They only need adjustment about every 2nd oil change (10K miles).
Jim
I have a CC solid roller but I'm not running as high a boost as you will, so I went with a 230/236 on 112LSA. It idles smoothly at 750rpm, and revs easily until the cam + boost runs out around 6500. CC makes some nice solid roller lifters and you can have them grind any Xtreme Street Roller lobe profile(s) onto any LSA for less than $400.
They only need adjustment about every 2nd oil change (10K miles).
Jim
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I definately cannot go solid roller but I do understand your point as it being the ultimate combo. Back in the day when I had a Mustang we just ran the single pattern cams such as the B-303 and the X-303. They were single pattern cams 224 .480 and 224 .542 both on 112's. You would lose about 1 to 2 lbs of boost but make around 50-60 more horse. I ran 10.40@127 with a S-trim making 12lbs with a 5.0 mustang with Edelbrock heads and a GT-40 intake without revving it past 6000 rpm-no electronics-just an FMU and MSD BTM. With the rev limter extended using a R-trim same stock short block guys were running 9.80's-9.90's . That's just a 302 and and aftermarket heads that prossibly flow no more than a stock set of LS1 heads. I know everyone talks about 114 centerlines but why isn't a 112 ideal? Wouldn't you make just as much power with less boost and have less chance of detenation due to the overlap using pump gas? Also would this help the bottom end survive longer as you don't have to rev it as much-power would come on faster with a 112 versus a 114? Please don't start slamming me guys-I'm not new to FI but I am a newbie to FI on a LS1. I'm just trying to understand if a stock shortblock with say a mild cam such as the T1 or C1 would live longer and amke more power(less boost) than with a cam such as the LS6?
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Originally Posted by Vortech
. . . I know everyone talks about 114 centerlines but why isn't a 112 ideal? . . .
I really wish people would quit spouting that "114 is best for superchargers and turbocharger" without knowing the context and reasoning behind it. The stock Turbo GN cam is on a 106 as are some of the aftermarket Turbo GN cams.
In your duration range, 112 is fine.
