6.0 manfold stud removal and bolt replacement
All this talk about truck manifolds, turbos, and warm weather is getting me jealous. I need to keep on buying more FI parts to get my truck mani setup rolling. Also, its on average 30 degrees here in PA right now so don't feel so bad. I am putting my McLeod twin disc in this coming weekend and will have a kerosene "jet engine" heater going all day/night. It's one of those heaters that looks like a "jet engine" hehe.
Jer- I will pick up those bolts you said to mate my flanges to the mani's. I also need to get a couple of bolts to mock up the mani's on my 6.0 heads that are laying around. At least I will feel like I am accomplishing something
Regarding the k-member, I am getting the AJE kmember that Kyle and some other's run. I should have no issues with the DP over the kmember since that is the "best clearing" kmember available supposably.
Enough of my chatter, I need to order some parts!!!!!
Laterz
Andy
Jer- I will pick up those bolts you said to mate my flanges to the mani's. I also need to get a couple of bolts to mock up the mani's on my 6.0 heads that are laying around. At least I will feel like I am accomplishing something
Regarding the k-member, I am getting the AJE kmember that Kyle and some other's run. I should have no issues with the DP over the kmember since that is the "best clearing" kmember available supposably.
Enough of my chatter, I need to order some parts!!!!!
Laterz
Andy
Originally Posted by KAOS
but it is the stock k member correct?
i will later upgrade to a tublar k members..but for no im doing stock k member with a 3.5 down pipe out the passenger side!
Originally Posted by smokinHawk
how is the AJE the best clearing, just curious, wonder how much more room it has over my BMR?
I haven't personally seen the difference first hand, but from what I have heard/read, people are saying the AJE kmember is supposed to give a slight more room than the BMR and PA Racing kmember. They all are most likely relative in size with minor differences.
Andy
I like how the AJE motor mounts come directly up from the bottom of the Kmember. My BMR is nice but the mounts jut out from the sides of it. I'd think you can get more DP through it without the mounts coming out from the sides. Thats my take on it, it can be wrong but I don't care
No need to take it personal smokin jeez
J
No need to take it personal smokin jeez
J
Originally Posted by SINISTER
yes sir..
i will later upgrade to a tublar k members..but for no im doing stock k member with a 3.5 down pipe out the passenger side!
i will later upgrade to a tublar k members..but for no im doing stock k member with a 3.5 down pipe out the passenger side!
Originally Posted by KAOS
3.5 without modification? that rocks.
only thing i have to do is remove the stock fans and get a set of fal pusher fans and add them to the front. no cutting of the upper rad and moving it forward .
but its all still gettinge bolted up so i dont wanna shoot myself in the foot
some old pics it is actually tucked up there way nicer now with flex sections on each side
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Verdad Gallardo wasnt taking it personal 
just wondering what the aje was like, think i remember it now, but not sure it would work for me, as the motormount would get in the way of my down pipe, seems like you couldnt fit as big with that mount cause the truck manafold goes to the side so the downpipe would have to go straight under where it would hit the mouter mount post. with the bmr, ti comes from the side at an angle where it can pas a 4" pipe.
but maybe my idea is wrong since i havent mokced one up with the AJE
just wondering what the aje was like, think i remember it now, but not sure it would work for me, as the motormount would get in the way of my down pipe, seems like you couldnt fit as big with that mount cause the truck manafold goes to the side so the downpipe would have to go straight under where it would hit the mouter mount post. with the bmr, ti comes from the side at an angle where it can pas a 4" pipe.
but maybe my idea is wrong since i havent mokced one up with the AJE
ok since we all are running almost the same set ups...
what fuel pumps you guys useing
twin intank?? and do you have the wired both on all times???
i was usning twin intanks but the y block i had in there was to big and the movement of the pumps and what not put a small hole in one of the lines and i was loosing pressure i had them both wired up and on at all times..
i just pulled the pumps and got the small moroso y block and a bap boost sensor from speed inc so the second pump will turn on at say 5 psi
but i have no clue how to do this...building anything im good..electrical **** im lost! i just ask this cause i know one of you guys know
what fuel pumps you guys useing
twin intank?? and do you have the wired both on all times???
i was usning twin intanks but the y block i had in there was to big and the movement of the pumps and what not put a small hole in one of the lines and i was loosing pressure i had them both wired up and on at all times..
i just pulled the pumps and got the small moroso y block and a bap boost sensor from speed inc so the second pump will turn on at say 5 psi
but i have no clue how to do this...building anything im good..electrical **** im lost! i just ask this cause i know one of you guys know
Originally Posted by SINISTER
well inseted of cramming everything as high up into the engine bay as possible there is some lee way and the pipes run right inderneath the lower rad mout and ae braced to the lower rad mount still plently of road clearenece and room for bigger turbo!!
only thing i have to do is remove the stock fans and get a set of fal pusher fans and add them to the front. no cutting of the upper rad and moving it forward .
but its all still gettinge bolted up so i dont wanna shoot myself in the foot
some old pics it is actually tucked up there way nicer now with flex sections on each side
only thing i have to do is remove the stock fans and get a set of fal pusher fans and add them to the front. no cutting of the upper rad and moving it forward .
but its all still gettinge bolted up so i dont wanna shoot myself in the foot
some old pics it is actually tucked up there way nicer now with flex sections on each side
Originally Posted by SINISTER
ok since we all are running almost the same set ups...
what fuel pumps you guys useing
twin intank?? and do you have the wired both on all times???
i was usning twin intanks but the y block i had in there was to big and the movement of the pumps and what not put a small hole in one of the lines and i was loosing pressure i had them both wired up and on at all times..
i just pulled the pumps and got the small moroso y block and a bap boost sensor from speed inc so the second pump will turn on at say 5 psi
but i have no clue how to do this...building anything im good..electrical **** im lost! i just ask this cause i know one of you guys know
what fuel pumps you guys useing
twin intank?? and do you have the wired both on all times???
i was usning twin intanks but the y block i had in there was to big and the movement of the pumps and what not put a small hole in one of the lines and i was loosing pressure i had them both wired up and on at all times..
i just pulled the pumps and got the small moroso y block and a bap boost sensor from speed inc so the second pump will turn on at say 5 psi
but i have no clue how to do this...building anything im good..electrical **** im lost! i just ask this cause i know one of you guys know
where are you located again sinister? you said you were somewhat close?
Originally Posted by smokinHawk
as of nowi have two walbros, one on all the time and one turned on at 5psi bya hobbs switch and relay. If you can figure out how to use a relay then you can wire it up, bascally voltage goes through the hobbs switch when it sees 5psi, that voltage goes to the relay and turns on the pump.
where are you located again sinister? you said you were somewhat close?
where are you located again sinister? you said you were somewhat close?
yeah hobbs switch that waht i got not bap...couldent think of the name when i was typeing...how do have voltage kickon at 5psi???so it send the signal to the switch...if that makes any sense??
oh and bolted up the cross over...3/8 bolts went right on up!!
Originally Posted by black_z
Lookin good man. Stock radiator/position?
yes sir stock raditor position moving to pusher fans in the front plently of room for a BIGGER turbo down the rode!!
Originally Posted by SINISTER
pittsburgh pa not to far from you at all..
yeah hobbs switch that waht i got not bap...couldent think of the name when i was typeing...how do have voltage kickon at 5psi???so it send the signal to the switch...if that makes any sense??
oh and bolted up the cross over...3/8 bolts went right on up!!
yeah hobbs switch that waht i got not bap...couldent think of the name when i was typeing...how do have voltage kickon at 5psi???so it send the signal to the switch...if that makes any sense??
oh and bolted up the cross over...3/8 bolts went right on up!!
so when the hobbs switch gets 5psi it connects the circuit of +12v to the relay.
Originally Posted by KAOS
cool to see that he 3/8s went in. its odd though. and your kit looks good. you did all the work right
Odd though? 3/8ths worked for me and him? You sir are the oddity
Just giving you a hard time Daniel. Its nice to see that i'm not the only one with 3/8 bolts up in there.
J
i dunno what the deal is. mine go in great. my luck once i get everything on and it gets hot all the bolts will fall out and the kit will fall off while im going down the track. lol. jer when are we going to see some numbers from your kit
