6.0 manfold stud removal and bolt replacement
6.0 manfold stud removal and bolt replacement hey guys i know another 6.0 manifold question..
butim bolting up my new setup got manifolds on ready to attach the cross over to the manifolds..
i removed the studs from the manifolds and bought bolts which i thought i was the right size i was way off..
anyone know the exact size thread bolt that you need to go up in there...
is it mm or american....??
also another possible way to fix the problem of not being able to get the one bolt on near the passenger side k member..
insted of hacking up the k-member. i braced the engine undid the k member bolts k member will drop down plenty far enough to get that bolt in.. if you still need room remove the bolts completly on the passenger side bracethek member up a bit and you can move the k member back enough to get it up
sounds like a bit but really isnt only 6 big bolts...just rather my 2 cents insted of nothing the k member..
but if someone can help me out with what bolts to grab i appreciate it...gonna get them at lowes or home depot
butim bolting up my new setup got manifolds on ready to attach the cross over to the manifolds..
i removed the studs from the manifolds and bought bolts which i thought i was the right size i was way off..
anyone know the exact size thread bolt that you need to go up in there...
is it mm or american....??
also another possible way to fix the problem of not being able to get the one bolt on near the passenger side k member..
insted of hacking up the k-member. i braced the engine undid the k member bolts k member will drop down plenty far enough to get that bolt in.. if you still need room remove the bolts completly on the passenger side bracethek member up a bit and you can move the k member back enough to get it up
sounds like a bit but really isnt only 6 big bolts...just rather my 2 cents insted of nothing the k member..
but if someone can help me out with what bolts to grab i appreciate it...gonna get them at lowes or home depot
Home Depot Racer Supply is where I found my SS bolts.
PN DR#414
UPC code is
030699722280
3/8x2in long.
They are located in the fastener chests, the ones with the slide out drawers.
Probably can go 1.5 and still have plenty of bolt. The 2inch long ones are a lil long
Oh well, but at 3 bucks a bolt I decided to stick with em.
PN DR#414
UPC code is
030699722280
3/8x2in long.
They are located in the fastener chests, the ones with the slide out drawers.
Probably can go 1.5 and still have plenty of bolt. The 2inch long ones are a lil long
Oh well, but at 3 bucks a bolt I decided to stick with em. Thats weird, Metric didn't work on mine at all, they'd bind up. The 3.8's went all the way through nice and tight by hand no slop and no shining of the threads on the bolts.
J
J
[humm thats what i got was metric
m10-1.50 x40
they would thread in a bit 1/8 or so then bind up..
ill pick up some 3/8 tomaroww and see what one fits the best and get em in there..
thanks guys
m10-1.50 x40
they would thread in a bit 1/8 or so then bind up..
ill pick up some 3/8 tomaroww and see what one fits the best and get em in there..
thanks guys
i know, how old were your manifolds, mine only have like 200 miles on them. the sizes are real close but the metric worked best for me. you should have seen me lugging that manifold thru lowes, the looks were priceless
Originally Posted by KAOS
i know, how old were your manifolds, mine only have like 200 miles on them. the sizes are real close but the metric worked best for me. you should have seen me lugging that manifold thru lowes, the looks were priceless
hahah i did the same thing...i got all the looks
the best thing i sat it on the register desk when i was buything the bolts and the lady grabbed it looking for a bar code i **** u not.
i had the perfect opturinity for a heres your sign old guy working the paint section said "hey aint that suppose to be on your car" no sir this is my anti theft device i remove this and thewill get a awful rucus when he tries to steel my car!
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the 10s did the same to me then i just put a socket on them and they went right in. the 3/8s wouldnt go in hardly at all and then they binded up. try that 10 again with a socket and see how it goes
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Originally Posted by KAOS
the 10s did the same to me then i just put a socket on them and they went right in. the 3/8s wouldnt go in hardly at all and then they binded up. try that 10 again with a socket and see how it goes
let you know
thanks
Mine were new takes offs as well. The studs were factory GM. I had just had to take the stud to home depot to match it up, no lugging of the manifold was needed
All six went up perfectly, time and time again. We had em in and out about 10 times total and none of the threads were stripped. Who knows...crazy GM engineers.
J
All six went up perfectly, time and time again. We had em in and out about 10 times total and none of the threads were stripped. Who knows...crazy GM engineers.
J
ahh i couldent wait!! haha
just went got it up gottwo bolts one on each side
went by hand till i couldent was only 1/4 inch then tried with socket and it was real tight couldent even get ahole turn
backed them off gonna pick up some 3/8s from depot and see which one works best
thanks guys!!
just went got it up gottwo bolts one on each side
went by hand till i couldent was only 1/4 inch then tried with socket and it was real tight couldent even get ahole turn
backed them off gonna pick up some 3/8s from depot and see which one works best
thanks guys!!
excuse us for not doing the obvious. i have an excuse im from ky so there. who knows, the 10s worked for me we will see what sinister says and just suggest to people which ever ones thread in for them at that time.
It would have been cheaper for me to lug the manifold around, I had to go out and buy a stud removal tool from NAPA...26 bucks for that lil gem I'll probably only use it that one time too
I'm wondering too what it really is now, metric or standard...maybe its standard on 4.8's and metric on the 5.3, and 6.0's
Wouldn't put it past those GM engineers.J
Originally Posted by frcefed98
It would have been cheaper for me to lug the manifold around, I had to go out and buy a stud removal tool from NAPA...26 bucks for that lil gem I'll probably only use it that one time tooI'm wondering too what it really is now, metric or standard...maybe its standard on 4.8's and metric on the 5.3, and 6.0's
Wouldn't put it past those GM engineers.J
well im running 6.0 ones off of a ss truck???
then 10 seems pretty tight
ill grab some 3/8 and see whats up
prob both will feel the same and ill use 10 in one and 3/8 in the other to really confuse the future builders...
we need to set up a tool trade system...
i wentand bought a set of stud removals from MAC...you donteven want to know how much i paid for that set! so dont feel bad!
ky im jelous im freezing my *** off in pittsburgh with three heaters in my garage!
you better be careful picking on those gm engineers, some may be lurking around here 
i dunno what the deal is but the 10s worked great for me. just wish i had my pipes to bolt up using my new bolts. now that would be great.
i dunno what the deal is but the 10s worked great for me. just wish i had my pipes to bolt up using my new bolts. now that would be great. sinsiter are you going to go over the k member with your setup and it is a stock unit correct, have you had a chance to hold it up there and look at it. just curious, i am being told it may not fit but i think it will
To hell with those GM engineers, they shoulda put room for turbos and superchargers in these damn engine compartments
I tried to get my studs out that way too but those suckers werent budging
So I had to buy the damn stud tool A lil liquid wrench and they came out with ease.
Suppose to be 60 degrees here tomorrow, but I still have the propane heater on at all times when i'm in my driveway...too cold needs to be 80+ degrees out for me.
J
I tried to get my studs out that way too but those suckers werent budging
So I had to buy the damn stud tool A lil liquid wrench and they came out with ease.Suppose to be 60 degrees here tomorrow, but I still have the propane heater on at all times when i'm in my driveway...too cold needs to be 80+ degrees out for me.
J
Originally Posted by KAOS
sinsiter are you going to go over the k member with your setup and it is a stock unit correct, have you had a chance to hold it up there and look at it. just curious, i am being told it may not fit but i think it will