NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Heath........... when we start making 600+rwhp most gas milage goes out the window..... i stopped worring about MPG along time ago........... more like gallons to the mile now...


Bad *** Jer...... glad ya got it working...... were going with the 3 bar MAP.... ill let ya know how that does....
Kyle

Blackbird

yah yah I know but some of us crazys want both

well maybe because I plan to stay under 600 (550 + or - is fine with me) I am different

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Heath,
MPG? Whats that My car has always been crappy for getting good mileage per tanks of gas. High stall, boost and gears are all detrimental to knocking down great gas mileage.

Its been getting about 170mi per tank tho It was the same with the supercharger too

With the SD tune my car is staying in the 14's(AFR) pretty well under cruise conditions, but when I let off the gas it goes real rich into the 12's until I put my foot back on the pedal.

Kyle 3 bar yeah yeah sure You'll get to 14.7psi and crap your pants and call good right there...your car is going to be a beast

LTLHomer, Yep worked like a charm. I was concerned about leaving the top port open. I was running the WG that way when just running the spring and no boost controller as well. I cut a long length of vac line and attached it to the top port and routed it where water or crud couldn't jack it up. Do you think I could put a check valve on that piece of vacuum line so it'll be "sealed" until it was venting?

SuperZ were working on it. I'm definately thinking its getting dyno'ed on 10psi and pump gas to see whats up. Should be pretty safe. I can always hit the meth as well.

I'll be logging tomorrow on the way to work and on the way home to verify that my tune is good.

J

BoostMluse

iTrader: (3)

I was refering to a wastegate in general and boost controller in general. I'm not familiar with the turbosmart boost controller. After your explaination, i can see why it needs to be routed that way.
This is incorrect. If you've ever dissected a wastegate you would understand what i'm talking about. There is a sealed diaphram inside the gate. When boost is added to the "bottom" of the wastegate, youre effectively changing the spring rate of the gate. It now has the pressure of exhaust gases as well as the boost pressure from the engine helping to open the gate.
Adding more pressure to the "top" in conjuction with a reference line to the "bottom" will give you boost control. This is how typical boost controllers are set up. Refer to frcefed's link in a prior post. Here is another excellent link for boost controllers that can be controlled by standalone ECU's.
boost control

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Bottom top left right...I know the reference for my wastegate is at the 'bottom' and that is the side that pushes against the wastegate spring. Any pressure added to the 'top' would push against that reference and would increase your boost level.

You can't make less boost than your wastegate spring.

I'm also familiar how the ECU's can control the boost pressure (I'm going to be using bs3 with two valves to control it) but it doesn't change the fact that you can't make less boost than your wg spring.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Well have to see Jer... should be

Kyle

kp

iTrader: (34)

Glad you got it going Jer, I was talking to Tom on the phome when I seen your post, I know he was having a hard time with his and talked to the guys at turbosmart.

Eric Bazan

iTrader: (1)

Very informative link. This helps a ton and is very easy to understand. Im sure my brother(Frcefed) has already read the link, but I'll be sure to let him now about it asap.

Thanks,

Eric

sr71

iTrader: (17)

I'm glad Kevin told me about your problem and post. it always feels good to be able to give back a little bit for all of the great help I've gotten from the forum.

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

KP, Thanks, now hopefully it'll reward me with great times and numbers. Dyno'ing the car was not a big deal to me, but it doesn't look like the track will be opening anytime soon so it'll have to do for now. The car boosts hard and fast now, i'm not use to that at all.

sr71, kp is an awesome guy to have around, you are lucky. I bug the hell out of him with PM's though

You're advice was dead on. Spools real fast now and holds 10psi solidly. Thanks again for the help

I better start saving for a tranny, something tells me its not going to like the turbo at the 14-15 psi I want to run

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Th400 Jer.......... or just have the 4l60e gone thru......??

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

You auto guys make everything so difficult! Jer get it on the dyno already....we've been waiting far too long.we wanna see some numbers!

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

Is the above mentioned way the correct way to route lines to all Boost Controllers? I have a Greddy Profec B Spec 2 on the way and with an external wastegate it says to put the valve inlet source from manifold pressure and the outlet of the valve to the top of the wastegate. Is this not correct??

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Depends on the boost controller and depends on the wastegate...

What is a greddy profec B? Is that an electronic boost controller? If so, it should have things going both to the top and bottom side of the wastegate.

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

Its under electronic here http://greddy.com/. It is an electronic boost controller with high and low boost setting and adjustable gain, start boost, and limiter settings.
Why is the installation for the above mentioned unit different? It is electronic as well.

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

In addition to this, the inlet on the side of the wastegate gets manifold pressure as well. So manifold pressure goes to the side inlet on the wastegate and also the inlet on the valve unit and then to the top of the wastegate. Is this correct for an electronic boost controller or is there just supposed to be a valve inline with the manifold pressure source and then continue on the side inlet of the wastegate and leave the top of the wastegate alone and open to the atmosphere???

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

The above was a simple boost-tee which is just a simple manual boost controller compared to your electronic setup.

Those instructions should be fine (external wastegate instructions)...the way I'm reading it is you should run a hose from your compressor housing and then 'tee' it off...one line should go directly to the bottom of the wastegate and the other to the 'NC' port...then you run the 'com' port to the top of the wastegate...and you also run a reference line (pressure souce) directly to the main box...basically it looks like that boost controller will just control the amount of pressure going to the top of the gate, and in doing so, can control your boost pressure from your wastesgate spring pressure all the way up to not allowing the wastegate to open at all which is want to do until you reach your desired boost. I think that's how most electronic boost setups work so just follow the insturctions, and if you have any questions, call greddy and I'm sure they can tell you what needs to be done.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

The first thing you said is right...jsut remember you have to run a reference to the main box as well so it knows what your actual boost is and then it controls that solenoid accordingly.

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much!!! That has been confusing the hell out of me for some time, especially after seeing this thread. Very much appreciated!!