I have been trying to decide what motor and trans combo im going to run in my car.So far I have narrowed it down to this set up,nothing outrageous but Im new to the Lsx motors and need some help.This combo will be going into a 66 Chevy Nova that will have chassis work done to it to handle the power.

End goal will be a twin turbo streetable motor with good daily driving characteristics but yet still be able to be turned up at the track.Trying to get as close as possible with having the best of both worlds.What things will be needed or changed in this plan to support 500-600 pump gas and on race gas max hp?

LS2 6.0 block
Forged 4.000 crank(Callies,Lunati,etc)
Forged 6.125 rods(Eagle,Lunati,Crower,etc)
Pistons from Diamond,CP,Je
LS2 heads,Titanium/Stainless intakes Inconel Exhaust's.Good springs/rockers.
Cam specs...230's/240's area with 550-600 lift..around 114-116 ls.
FAST 90mm manifold,or LS2 with cable throttle body
Keep hydraulic roller cam,6200?
Ported oil pump
Oil pan...do they make aftermarket deep sump pans?
I have the turbo headers,intercooler and all piping taken care of so far.
Stock LS2 wirng harness and computer
LS2Edit or possibly complete aftermarket electronics
Turbonetics BB,twin turbo,size not yet determined
HKS GTII's wastegates.
Fuel pump(s) sizing
Regulator?
Filter?
Injector size?
What pressure is needed at the fuel rails?
o2 sensors?If so where to mount them?

Trans..4l60E/4l80E/TH400. I'm leaning more towards the 80E for the strength and O/D.But this is going into a somewhat light car,so Im not throwing out the 60E idea.


Things Im not finding through searches is can these LS2 aluminum blocks take the HP?I see alot of iron block build ups but Im wanting to keep the weight down and use the aluminum block.Looks like this motor will be built from scratch,all parts being new.I dont necessarily have a budget to follow but that doesnt mean I want to spend money on certain parts that I really dont need.Seing how I have never built one of these Gen III/IV motors,who makes a good illustrated manual to read.Things like sensor,torque specs,plugs and general placement of covers and such will all be new too me.My other plan is to buy a complete LS2 crate motor and then change out the internals for the above mentioned forged parts.How complicated are these LSx motors?I have been researching this idea for some time now and I still dont know what the ideal motor package would be,so thats where I could use some ideas or suggestions.

I have been looking at alot of different compressor maps but I still need to learn more before I buy the turbos.The turbo side of this prject isnt my main concern,I have had turbo motors in the past and have a twin turbo efi big block now.Its mainly being completely new to these genIII/IV motors that is where Im stumped.

I going to blame all of this money im getting ready to spend on some of the people cars in this forum.Just amazing how fast they are going with these LSx based motors! Parish's truck pushed my idea over the edge though,Now I have to build a turbo motor....LOL It will be a long project,car is still in the paint shop....but I would like to get the motor package started right away.

Rambling done!

 

I was wanting to do that to my 76 bird, but started adding the money up and damn.
Good luck though cause if you do it that's going to be one badass
ride

 

Looks like you've done your homework, sounds like a nice plan. The only question I'll answer is about the LS2 block. I would say you would definitely be fine with it. Consider that W2W sells a 1250hp LS2 and Mike brown runs 8's with his.

 

Agreed, the LS2 block will more than handle your expected power output (as will that rotating assembly).

As for manuals, get a factory manual for an '05-'06 Vette or some other Gen IV based car here: http://www.helminc.com

 

IMO jumping in at that level could be a mistake. I don't want to assume you've set up turbocharged EFI/tuning before.

You might want to start with just a plain-jane LS1 to work with (MUCH cheaper & easier) and become familiar with the tuning & all the little stuff about LSX based engines. You can always upgrade the surrounding parts and add your turbo system as well, and you'll be braver with your tuning on a stock engine that you would on your planned LS2.
It might also be in your best interest to get a stand-alone ECU and a non-computer controlled transmission. You can still have OD, and even a lock-up converter, so it's not really a step backwards.
You'll have a huge advantage when it comes to tuning your boosted engine with the stand-alone system. You'll also be able to run the insanely large injectors that a turbocharged large-cube engine normally requires.

I would also consider a turbo-specific camshaft. For best streetability I think it would pay to get a custom job.

 

Thank you for the feed back on the aluminum block question.

jyeager,thanks for the link...I'll check into getting a manual asap.

white2001s10,I couldnt agree more with you about jumping in with cold feet on this project.I have done tuning on turbo stuff but all carb deals,no injection.My big block twin turbo motor that i have now is all Autronic electronic's.I do not do the tuning myself either,but do watch and learn from the people that do tune the motor.It will be a huge learning curve for me so thats why I thought about building the motor to suit the turbo but put it into the car N/A and learn how to tune and test.I can also learn the tranny programs as well this way.

Any input on that idea?

 

Where do you drain the oil back at,block or pan.Can the block be drilled and tapped for oil drain back lines or is it safe to go back to the pan?

I thought I had read that people were venting the intake valley tray?Is that correct?Trying to get crank case pressure out.

Should the clearances be set up to stock on the rods,main,piston wall,rings and etc...?

On the forged turbo pistons,are they moving the ring sets downward on the piston for more top ring landing or not?

 

You can't drain back to the engine in a pressurized location. The block passages are all pressurized. There are 2 places to drain back:

1) in to one or both valve covers.
2) the oil pan.

There may be more that I haven't thought of.

Piston to wall clearance and ring end gap should be widened somewhat for boost applications. Rods and Mains? There might be debate, but stock should be OK, perhaps be precise and be on the large side of the factory tolerances.

Crank case pressure might need to be handled beyond the PCV valve. Many people have added breathers to one or both valve covers.

Can't answer that last question.

 

T400 unless you're a baller and can swing a 4L80E combo. Won't need much gear anyway.

 

I understand that you cant drain back to a pressureized passage but cant you weld a bung or drill and tap for a fitting just above the oil pan rail and drain back there(above oil level).Is there not an area on the block that this can be done?


Baller...no...LOL..Just work hard and can afford what I like to do.I already talked to a few shops about a 4l60e and 4l80e.Being that my car is only 2900-3000 on weight,they seem to think a 4l60e might do the job.Im figuring 800-900rwhp is my goal,hopefully not too much to ask for.

 

ok, now I see what you mean. In this case I can't see any benefit over drilling the pan.

 

If the oil level is low enough in the pan I would see any problem,but I dont know where the level is at when the engine is running.Shouldnt be too close to the top(gasket)line?

Is the truck pan deeper and hold more oil? Doesnt anybody make an aftermarket pan?

 

Aftermarket pans? Don't know. You can always customize.

However, your oil pan has the oil level sensor in there. Just eyeball that. That sits at the level of the 'low' on your dip stick. That will give you a rough idea of how high the oil sits in the pan.

BUT! You can drain your turbos in to the pan and even have the level of oil slightly higher than the tap and you'll be OK. That is unless your turbos are too close to that level. Assuming they are mounted up top that would still be fine.

For reference, if you have a pan lying around you can get it level and pour 6 quarts of fluid in there to gauge where the oil level sits.