Adjusting Boost level need Tune?????
Adjusting Boost level need Tune????? Hey, I plan on taking my D1SC car to the dyno on about 12lbs of boost to get it tuned, heres my question what if down the roade I want to run 15lbs will the Air/Fuel ratio's From the original Tune take car of it???
Say I wanted to go from 12 to 8lbs of boost would I need a tune then too?????
I plan on running a FMIC with a custom Open Front Bumper inlet, If I dyno the car in 90 degree weather will the Computer compensate the Air/fuel ratio in 30 degree weather since cooler, more dense air will be entering the motor???
I am hoping I can just get the 1 dyno Tune, then I can just change the pulley out when I want to and drive it in all weather conditions without having to worry about anything.
Say I wanted to go from 12 to 8lbs of boost would I need a tune then too?????
I plan on running a FMIC with a custom Open Front Bumper inlet, If I dyno the car in 90 degree weather will the Computer compensate the Air/fuel ratio in 30 degree weather since cooler, more dense air will be entering the motor???
I am hoping I can just get the 1 dyno Tune, then I can just change the pulley out when I want to and drive it in all weather conditions without having to worry about anything.
It depends on how the vehicle was tuned, if tuned correctly, you can lower the boost and have everthing be correct, fuel and timing both are easily corrected for different airflows by the way the factory setup the PCM calibrations. More airflow = less timing and more fuel, and vise versa.
Ryan
Ryan
Since the maf on these cars easily gets maxed out, the tune ends up being extremely important. As was also mentioned above by Ryan, I would not up the boost without at least checking the air/fuel ratio, fuel pressure, and checking for spark knock. A tune is relatively cheap compared to replacing pistons, and possibly a block. Bob
So when I take it to get it dynotuned, I need to run the Max boost that I plan on running that why it is fully dialed in, after the tune I can then lower the boost to what I want and be happy. Then If I want to raise it back up to optimum boost I am ready to go???
The motor is a 9:1 compression Forged 383 from Victory racing, I plan on running about 500 miles on the motor without the blower, then when I take it to the dyno put the blower belt on and run it, SO I will be breaking the D1SC in on the DYNO, is that a good idea?????
I plan on shifting at about 6300 or so.
The motor is a 9:1 compression Forged 383 from Victory racing, I plan on running about 500 miles on the motor without the blower, then when I take it to the dyno put the blower belt on and run it, SO I will be breaking the D1SC in on the DYNO, is that a good idea?????
I plan on shifting at about 6300 or so.
Originally Posted by T/A KID
So when I take it to get it dynotuned, I need to run the Max boost that I plan on running that why it is fully dialed in, after the tune I can then lower the boost to what I want and be happy. Then If I want to raise it back up to optimum boost I am ready to go???
The motor is a 9:1 compression Forged 383 from Victory racing, I plan on running about 500 miles on the motor without the blower, then when I take it to the dyno put the blower belt on and run it, SO I will be breaking the D1SC in on the DYNO, is that a good idea?????
I plan on shifting at about 6300 or so.
The motor is a 9:1 compression Forged 383 from Victory racing, I plan on running about 500 miles on the motor without the blower, then when I take it to the dyno put the blower belt on and run it, SO I will be breaking the D1SC in on the DYNO, is that a good idea?????
I plan on shifting at about 6300 or so.
Exactly, and use a factory maf with the screen in.
