Yea, i e-mailed them but never got a response back. Wonder if they could fab me up a twin kit that would keep AC that wouldnt cost an arm and a leg over other kits

 

....last time I checked custom fabrication = mucho $$$$$

 

superman if you reallreally want ac i bet you could just relocate it

 

Give them a call...they are having their shop redone so who knows if they email system is working up to spec...

 

Ok well i sent them a PM last night. Hey 93formto98ta, do you think if i went with the GMR twin kit that i could relocate my ac? Also whats done to your T-56 to hold that 750 rwhp? Also how does your car drive on the street? Can you explain sort of what its like. Thanks, really appreciate your time.

 

Dude, this is like your "N"th thread about getting this type of power. Decide if the car will be primarily street/track driven. Then decide on the power (750rwhp) like you stated. Now in order to budget for this, you'll need "approximately" $15k to get this including ALL supporting mods give or take. This post is not bashing on you, or trying to offend you, but it is attempting to aid in your decision.

There are four ways to achieve this, or some combination of the four....Turbo, Supercharger, H/C, Nitrous. There a hundreds of threads floating around with several opinions, thoughts, etc on these various combinations.

You seem to want to go turbo. Most all turbo kits out there are "good" for the money. If I were to go turbo today, and had the cash available, I would get the Turbo Tech race kit. IMHO, hands down the best kit out there. Buy the kit, fuel, rear, etc and you are good to go. Unfortunately this loses the A/C. That's part of the deal. Custom Fabbed turbo kits = $$$$. Keeping A/C = Hi-Flo, GMR?.

IF you want the A/C, go with a D1SC from Bob at EPP, get the fuel, rear, etc and be good to go. Both combos are tame on the street and make tons of power.

Lastly, if you go H/C from people like Cartek, Futral, LG just to name a few, and add some NOS to the picture, you will be there as well.

People can discuss combinations all day with you but in the end it's what you want to get out of the car. Personally, I enjoy cruising more-so than racing. I got a D1SC kit for the ease of installation, cost, and desired power level. Sure I like turbos as well but I chose to go with the S/C. I spent about 6 months deciding what I wanted then finally took the plunge.

So my advice to you is to pick a route and start modding. It won't happen overnight either unless you are rich. Most buildups take 2, 3, 4 years from start to completely finished (although you are never finished- boost = addicting). Sit down for a few and picture in your head, your car finished, you driving it, and what combination will give you the most fun for YOUR money. After you decide, then you can search for ways to achieve this end result with different parts, etc.

Let me know what you finally decide on. Good luck in your search process for your FI application.

Andy

 

Don't know about ac relo. If you wanted it bad enough there's always a way but I was glad to lose some weight removing ac. I'm on a stock t56 and in speaking with intimd8 and some t56 vendors the stocker is good to ~800rwhp but not sure about full on drag racing. The car drives like it did with the stock ls1 in it.....until you lay into the throttle..lol! Basically don't even think about WOT before 80mph...even then it fishtails....it's insane....love it.

 

Finally!someone said what ive been thinking the past 4 of these type of threads...bravo!Brilliant Andy!Nick

 

Couple other things to consider. Many don't consider the stock block SAFE at 750 rwhp. Yes, its been done, but eventually the cyliders can oval out. You can get a sleeved block ($$$) or the iron truck block. I went with a D1SC setup and 6.0 liter block. I am having FLP do the whole deal, and will have what I consider to be a reasonable amount of money into it considering they are doing all the labor/tuning as well. I wanted to keep my A/C too. Also, 750 rwhp on the street is pretty much useless. Most guys consider anything north of 550 rwhp hard to use on the street. I'll be around 650 rwhp on pump gas with room to grow. I do a little street racing and its all about hooking. More power is useless if you don't hook it.

I've owned several cars, turbo'd, sprayed, etc., and I like the simplicity of the blower setup. Sure, turbo's will make more power, but the packaging is harder and the cost is higher. I honestly see myself going to a turbo setup in the distant future, when I decide to gut the car and make it super fast, but for now I think it will be a good street car.

 

People said the exact same thing about Honda B-series sleeves. Only thing is the LS1's have a ton more meat around the cylinder walls. The stock B-series sleeves have been proven reliable at 650-700 WHP on gasoline, with half the cylinders. I wouldn't bat an eye at running 750 RWHP on stock LS1 sleeves, but maybe that's just me.

 

PTK/PTS's setup keeps AC, and with a 76GTS....

 

I've discussed it with some professional LS engine builders. Trust me, I wanted to use my stock block. My cars heavy enough as it is. While plenty of guys have made serious power on the stock sleeves, ovaling is an issue. This guy said he wanted safe and reliable, so I say a stock block is neither, unless its been resleeved, at which point you might as well buy an aftermarket block.

 

Sounds like he's trying to make a sale.... There are lots of people here who have done it and still do it; more than not. The block is not the normal failure point.
-edit- search and find 2 or more failures from ovaling, and we can go from there. Good luck finding them.


Superman
Check out this video of RICE ETR's car from a few weekends ago if you missed it. He made his own kit, but the boost vs. HP levels really show the potential of that 76mm:
http://frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/rice_etr_dyno.wmv

 

I'm gonna try as best as I can to safely keep my block when I build it up...

Why give up on my beloved block after all we've been though together?

 

Thanks for the info, I guess GM addressed the issue with the LS2 blocks and C5R blocks because they had more money than sense. Just because you aren't reading it on LS1tech.com doesn't mean it isn't happening. Talk to actual engine builders.

As far as making a sale, what exactly am I being sold? The work is the same regardless of which block is used. I fail to see how using the iron block vs. the stock block would profit a builder more. Either way I'm buying a crank, rods, pistons, bearings, machine work, etc.

And I've seen it mentioned before here, FLP has seen it firsthand. I highly doubt they would just make it up.

I think you will start to see it more frequently once some of these high hp cars start to get more miles on the engine under these loads.

 

Ok let me get this clear first..

Well all of my threads have had a different purpose. First of all, i started out as a total noob like everyone does at one point. First thread was to get info on FI and whats required. Then i wanted to know about S/C or Turbo. Ive narrowed it down to wanting a turbo. From these threads i have gained so much info its unreal and i really appreciate all your help. I am out in the air as to what all needs to be done in a kit to handle 750 hp and best motor set up for this. This is the purpose of my thread. I have narrowed it down to turbo, and wanting to end up with 750 HP for a Full STREET CAR. Thats what i want and want to work towards it. I would like to keep AC and if i have to get a kit that doesnt keep it, ill try and relocate it. I think the most fun set up in my head would be a 750 hp twin kit that is an M6 for the street. So... onto what this thread was about..... What type of motor set up should i go with to achieve my goal the easiest safest? Would you suggest forging my current block or getting a fresh shortblock? Keep same cubes, go bigger? Compression ratio for this?
Sorry if you guys are getting annoyed but this is some big cash and when i take the plung i want it to be the best set up and reliable for what i want. All my threads are different with a different purpose and i really appreciate all of your guys' help and info so far. I have gained so much knowledge but am not quite there yet as to why i made this thread. Thanks for helping me out once again.

Note: I tried sending this right after i read ddnspider's reply but the database was down after i got threw typing it all and i just got back home. Also, ddnspider, i can see how you may getting annoyed as you have taught me a lot of what i now know and i appreciate you and your time man. Along with many others out there.


Now its the question..... If im going to be spending 5 grand on forging my stock block, i mise well spend a little more on a fresh block that will be more reliable and safe and help me out. so? What engine set up should i look into? I think got the turbo kit pretty narrowed down and know whats out there. Id like to be able to hit 750 safely but keep boost down and have about 600-650 all the time, but 750 safe and easy as a turn of a ..... whatever boost controller does, lol

 

1. Frost says the PTK kit keeps A/C. Buy that with the 76gts upgrade. You WON'T regret it
2. Motor at 750rwhp....arguably just go with rods, pistons, bearings, oil pump, ARP bolts/studs, STOCK crank, turbo cam from while you are in there, several companies offer nice cams for turbo apps. And there is tons of info about turbo cam pros/cons. Also add some 6.0 heads....see #4
3. Same (stock) cubes and a 76gts = FUN, HAPPY
4. Arguably 9.0-9.5:1. I got some 317 casting 6.0 heads. That should drop me down to 9.5 'ish range with some MLS gaskets. Add some Comp 918 springs, new seals, guides and you are done!

If you get rods, pistons, 6.0 heads, the PTK 76gts kit, you will have a 750 rwhp street monster.

Hope this helps
Andy

 

Here is a very rough estimate on a built stock motor with what I stated above.....

Eagle rods $600
??? pistons $600
Federal Mogul std. main bearings $70.00
Federal Mogul std. rod bearings $70.00
ARP 12 pt Head Stud Kit, LS1 $250.00
6.0 heads- used $325
GM MLS head gaskets $60.00
Thunder Racing Moly Pushrods 7.4" $110.00
Comp 918's Valve springs $180.00
Rollmaster double timing chain $119.00
Oil pump $ ???

I know I am forgetting some things but this adds up to: $2384 minus the oil pump and **** I forgot. It's not that much money to go this route. Also this is not including labor assuming you are gonna do this yourself.

Andy

 

ok thanks, that helps a lot. What rear would you suggest i run to hold this for a 100% street car? Would the 9" be street friendly or will a 12 bolt be fine since its street driven? Ill be switching to a t-56 so i dont have to go threw automatic troubles. I got quoted $4,500 to get my motor pulled, forge it, stock crank but polished, cam of choice, reinstall motor, tune it. I could also add the 6.0 heads for prolly just the price of the heads. Should i go with this? Any other input on forging mine vs going like a 408 shortblock? Or will that cost much much more money? Id like to keep forging the block under 7k. Turbo set up..... ill spend the money on the kit that will give me best results. im hearing great things from PTK but that thought of a twin set up from GMR is ringing in my head.

 

Get the motor done @ $4,500, then get to business.

408 is a bad idea with a 76gts. Talk to Jose at Forced Inductions, he'll explain the details of a turbo. I have no idea what all that **** means...haha.

T-56 = built by Rodney at RPM transmissions and put either a Spec 5 or a McLeod twin disc clutch in. Do it right once.

Rear= I personally like the Moser or Stranger bolt-in 9" . Get a 3.42 or 3.73 gear, whatever they come in. You don't need a tall gear.

I dont know if the GMR twin kit keeps the A/C since this is a concern of yours. If it does in fact keep the A/C then go for it. Nice looking kit

Andy