Damage Report!!
i had 6l heads, no knock and yes pump gas at the track. so compression wasnt stock but it wasnt in the 8s. not sure what the compresion would have been. so with my new setup do you think 18 is too much timing? pistons are good for a lot of power according to w2w and i only want 600 or so. so i figure 12psi should get me there. and really i dont need much more. goal is 10s and i think i can get it there on that and the right suspension. let me know what you guys think
Originally Posted by KAOS
here are some pics of the cylinder/piston, turbo and head. let me know what you guys think of that turbo
I had the same thing happen to my nitrous motor. Be sure and check real good around the cylinder edges where the sleeve is sunk into the block. Mine was soo violent it cracked the aluminum around the sleeve when it broke. my block is now trash.
goog to hear. i was hoping to sell the block and make a little back on it. hope its still good. like i said i got a new one coming so i cant wait. 600rw should be enough for anybody i will be goin at it with, especially from a 50 punch. cant wait.
Originally Posted by KAOS
i had 6l heads, no knock and yes pump gas at the track. so compression wasnt stock but it wasnt in the 8s. not sure what the compresion would have been. so with my new setup do you think 18 is too much timing? pistons are good for a lot of power according to w2w and i only want 600 or so. so i figure 12psi should get me there. and really i dont need much more. goal is 10s and i think i can get it there on that and the right suspension. let me know what you guys think
if your AFR was good like you said then the CR vrs octane was probably the culprit.
you said you had no knock the the dynojet, but that doesnt load the car like the track or mustang dyno would load it. if all possible id try to tune it on a mustang dyno.
what CR will your new motor be again.
my motor CR was 8.9-9.0 and timing was 18* around peak torque then going up to about 23* (from my DSW tune) I used 94 octane.
i think my timing was a tad high as #7 lifted a ringland on forged pistons.
the pistons may be strong but if something isnt right no matter how strong they are theyll still get damaged.
ive sent a lot of piston through turbos and i wouldnt hesitate to reuse that turbo, especially if it had low miles. y ou wont be able to tell the difference.
my best dyno numbers were done with one blade bent over after lunching a mahle
my best dyno numbers were done with one blade bent over after lunching a mahle
MM you wouldnt have it looked over? so my new motor it goin to be 9.27-3.7 depending on the heads. so 93 oct and 13 or so psi....will it be ok? if i keep timing around 15 at max. like i said 600rw is the goal now
any company that looks at it will certainly tell you they want you to pay them to service rebuild it.
you need to spend money elsewhere right now. if the thing doesnt wobble and isnt locked up i wouldn't worry about it. that cast piston shattered into lots of little peices.. its a much bigger mess when it has to eat forged piston.
if it doesnt act right with the new motor then get it checked down the line.
of course this isnt the safest way to go about it... and i cant offer to pay if something else happens.. but from experience i have run much worse wheels with no adverse effects.
you need to spend money elsewhere right now. if the thing doesnt wobble and isnt locked up i wouldn't worry about it. that cast piston shattered into lots of little peices.. its a much bigger mess when it has to eat forged piston.
if it doesnt act right with the new motor then get it checked down the line.
of course this isnt the safest way to go about it... and i cant offer to pay if something else happens.. but from experience i have run much worse wheels with no adverse effects.
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
any company that looks at it will certainly tell you they want you to pay them to service rebuild it.
you need to spend money elsewhere right now. if the thing doesnt wobble and isnt locked up i wouldn't worry about it. that cast piston shattered into lots of little peices.. its a much bigger mess when it has to eat forged piston.
if it doesnt act right with the new motor then get it checked down the line.
of course this isnt the safest way to go about it... and i cant offer to pay if something else happens.. but from experience i have run much worse wheels with no adverse effects.
you need to spend money elsewhere right now. if the thing doesnt wobble and isnt locked up i wouldn't worry about it. that cast piston shattered into lots of little peices.. its a much bigger mess when it has to eat forged piston.
if it doesnt act right with the new motor then get it checked down the line.
of course this isnt the safest way to go about it... and i cant offer to pay if something else happens.. but from experience i have run much worse wheels with no adverse effects.
The only way to get an accurate cost approx is in the hands of the turbo servicer.
If it were mine, I'd at least have it looked over by a qualified servicer, that turbo that is. That'd let me sleep comfortably.
If it were mine, I'd at least have it looked over by a qualified servicer, that turbo that is. That'd let me sleep comfortably.
