mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

It's $20K easy by the time you get a forged motor, upgraded fuel system, upgraded driveline, etc, etc..

Mark

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

You are going to spend a few years to build? Hopefully you mean in stages, I could never be sidelined for 2 years. You will save a bunch by doing the work yourself. The only thing is that you need to be a damn good fabricator, and need your own mig/tig welder.

Good luck.

David

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

I am doing all the fab work on mine. Having the welders is the easy part. I had no idea how much it would cost for all the little things that add up fast. I am way over budget, but am gonna see it through.

I have around:
Engine $5000
Turbo system $4500
Fuel system $2000
Trans $3500
Rear $2200
Suspension $1500
Total $18700
Plus the cost of the car. I figure by the time I am done I will have close to $35k-$40k in the car, and I am no where near as radical as some of these guys.

CHRISPY

I think a lot depends on whether you want to drag race the car or not. 550RWHP on a stock motor (with upgraded springs is relatively easy) Is it worth the BIG difference in cost for an extra 100RWHP?

For a street only setup you could get away a little cheaper using a blower:

ATI D1SC with upgraded intercoolers, 60# injectors, headers, LS6 springs, fuel system installed and tuned - ~8000.00

Decent clutch - 1000 installed

Some sort of sticky tire (DR etc) - 300-400

Total: ~9 grand and 550RWHP in a reliable setup. If/when you rebuild the motor you could just pulley up and retune to 650RWHP easily.

WhiteKnightZ28

iTrader: (5)

Ok I guess I should explain that this engine isn't going into my camaro. Its eventualy going to find its way into a B-body project car. The goal is for a streetable daily driver with alot of power on demand. It will probibly be 90% street, 10% strip.

Right now I'm just toying with different ideas for the engine of this project, I don't want to run N20, and I dont want a car with a big cam (got one right now and I want something different). So that means going with FI, but I havent really decided on turbo vs blower yet. Thats why I'm asking alot of questions.

Personaly, I want to build a turbo car. But after hearing what you guys have to say I'm going to be looking into the procharger idea.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Add $2000 for pocket money for all the little stuff... it adds up fast, especially if you insist on top quality stuff, which I believe only makes sense in the long run.

Grade 8 fasteners, T-bar clamps, flex joint(s), etc. all are needed and none are cheap.

Jim

code4

iTrader: (30)

Do you mind elaborating on your "turbo system"? For that price couldn't a person could buy a kit already fabbed?

Every time someone new asks the question, how much, I see some crazy numbers. I have everything (I think) to fab up my kit minus the costly items, turbo, BOV, & WG. I have very little invested but maybe I am missing something?

As far as suspension, fuel, drivetrain, tuning etc etc. That is stuff I needed to go fast with any power adder, so that is all done.

I would really appreciate some details if you don't mind sharing. I may just stay with the N2O if I find that there is some crazy costs that I missed. I have my own automotive shop so I will do my own work.

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

No problem:
Turbo $1000
Waste Gate $430
Blow Off Valve $250
Flanges $150 (T4 and 6.0L manifold flanges)
6.0L manifolds $100
V Band Clamps $50 x 3
2.5 inch feed pipes $25 x 5
3 inch Pipes for DP $30 x 5
FM Intercooler $300
3 inch aluminum Cold side pipes $200
Quality Silcone couples $8 x 10
T-Bolt Clamps $5 x 10
LC-1 Wide Band $250
Oil feed line and fittings $50
Oil drain line and fittings $75

That right there totals out too $3360. Those are all prices paid. Who knows what I have spent on shipping for everything. That is not including various nuts, bolts, heat wraps, coatings and all the little stuff that I needed to make it work on my car. I added another $1000 to my turbo build to cover the little things. Sure I could drop my total down to $4000 for the turbo build, but even when I thought I had everything. I proved myself wrong.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Its about the same with a SC car. all the stuff that is needed is about the same in price. In the end you might be a couple thousand less.... but close to the same amount of $$ spent to be able to use the new found HP reliably.

Kyle

bumpin_records

iTrader: (19)

well i feel ya i jsut finished my first semester of welding so i can fab up my own kit. im gonna purchase my short block from speed inc. I know its gonnna cost a lot cause i would like to run real low 9s or high 8s. hopefully i can be out next year. Im aobut to buy my welder so i can start the kit and mabe sell a few,lol to fund my project.very very costly.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Agree that 20,000 is pretty much nessary if you add in a lot of what was mentioned above.
There are ways to cut corners depending on if you want to stay around maybe 700 rwhp and not go past 1000rwhp.
Guy on here and on gmr site has 700 rwhp with his twin setup same one I am getting.
He has very cheap engine..6.0 iron, forged rods and pistons...stock 6.0 heads think ls6 cam,ls1 intake but the ls6 intake and stock or ported tb can work pretty good.
Sure you need a decent clutch or auto trans and for track use a stronger rearend.
Suspension mods are not necessary cars have gone very fast on stock suspensions.
Again for track use though you might want more suspension stuff.
You could run 400 to 500 rwhp on stock engine and keep costs down but you would likely be living on borrowed time and you can do up the stock ls1 engine with just rods,pistons,arp hardware pretty cheap if you use stock crank which have gone pretty big hp.
Single turbo kit is of course cheaper than a twin kit. I always wanted a twin and figured heck with it.it does have the potential for over 1000rwhp and that is enough for me..at least think its enough!! LOL Also two turbos are louder than one!!
I already had most of my suspension and brakes done and tires ,wheels,etc on my 99 .I plan on selling my super low mileage ls1 for decent bucks.think can get enough to pay for a bottom end assembled locally. I will do my own engine r and r for everything but the bottom end assembly. Saves a lot of bucks.I will do my own turbo install with ordered kit.
I still need to buy fuel support 1200 bucks there..tuning..500 there.injectors.500 there...want some heads.1500 there just bought gt7 cam and fast 90 and still need 90 tb..another 400 there.I can sell off a few of my current mods like b1 cam ,nos 5177 that never used,few other things..gms maf..hypertech programmer..
Still by the time the smoke clears 20,000 will be gone as do plan on 12 bolt also,spohn torque arm..thats about it!!
And agree you are likely to never get your money out so be prepared to keep it or lose like 50% when you sell it off.Buddy is selling off his sts lt1 and losing pretty big on most of his stuff. He just got it too!
putting car back to stock is best way to sell the car and not always possible if you really mod things up sometimes.
I plan on keeping my 99 twin turbo for a long time,my 97 talon awd turbo which just modded to the nines and my wifes 96z28 also getting pretty modded up. I also plan on getting a c6 and maybe magnacharger that in 5 years or so.
But hey it a hobby right!!
Guys spend thousands on a boat they use for a week in summer or rvs that also use for a week or two. They buy all sorts of things watercraft,atvs..etc
So I spend my money on cars mostly.
With a budget of 6000 to 7000 you could get your basic sts kit and bolt it on and some support mods. Might be a good way to start. I have been in one sts lt1 and it worked well and another guy I know just did up a sts ls1.Get rid in it shortly.
I personally like front mounts a bit better for various reasons but the sts kits are a decent alternative and easy to put on and off when you sell the car.

GrahamHill

iTrader: (6)

.... and after you have everything done "the right way" something breaks on your first trip to the track before you make the first pass....

code4

iTrader: (30)

Thats more in line with my figures minus the WB I already have & I was able to fab up my feed lines & a couple other things at no cost. Thanks for the info.
Keep up the good work I am anxious to see you get her on the road.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Not really, 130+ passes plus street driving last year and besides changing the oil and going through three sets of rear tires the only thing that failed was a LH turn signal bulb last year. But then again some people dont consider a mid 9 second car fast..

Quick breakdown of what I have into this car, some stuff was new, some used:

Used D1 procharger setup w/SDCE drive, FMIC 5000.00
Headers/Y-pipe/cat back 1200.00
9" moser, spool, aluminum center, 2300.00
shocks, drag swaybar, torque arm, k-member, relo brackets, LCAs, PHB, ~2000.00
Wheesl/tires 1500.00
Trans, 900.00
Converter, 900.00
Flexplate/shifter/dipstick/trans crossmember, 700.00
Driveshaft, 325.00
Fuel pumps, braided line, regulator, injectors 1200.00
Guages, WB, FP, boost, shiftlight, 750.00
Tuning software, 600.00
Seats, rollbar, belts, trans blanket, driveshaft loop, 1100.00

So thats 18,475 not including wear items like oil changes/tires/fuel.

Plus for 2006, new short block, heads, ATI damper, gaskets, head studs, fuel system parts, trans rebuild parts etc, 7000.00.

Thats 25,475.00 NOT including the price of the car.

Sold most the stock parts off the car, trans, rear, interior etc. Got around 2K for that stuff, also got 2K for the old forged piston short block and ported 98 heads.

so thats 21,475.00 (thats with ZERO labor, I do everything, even mounting and balancing tires I didnt do the machine work on the engine or assemble the short block though.

Add 12,000 for the car itself and thats 33,475.00 - thats not including lots of little things that were bought along the way that no one likes to count. Which oddly enough is 200.00 more then the loaded 2006 mustang GT convertable I just bought so its all relative

Worst part is its worth about 1/2 that if I go to sell it but thats how it goes..

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

i think my cost of going turbo is cheaper then your supercharger Kevin
cept i havent got it to run right yet.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Only thing tha would br cheaper would be the turbo parts themselves and not having to buy headers. Everything else it doesnt matter if its a blower or turbo, add the cost of a trans brake, boost controler and 2 step to the turbo though

No matter what you do its expensive if you want to build a quick, reliable car, you have to buy the good parts - no way around it.

buck2769

Like was said before - build it up in stages. I don't have personal experience with the prochargers, but I do have an STS setup. I speant about 6000 with the sts turbo, install, dyno time and tune, and 42# injectors w/ install. You could do the install yourself to save some cash and skip the injectors until you up the boost. That produced about 400HP.
An intercooler will net you more HP and you can crank up the boost to about 8#. That should cost about a grand and net close to 500HP. You're still a far cry from 650HP, but you're on your way. Somewhere past 500HP I would consider building the bottom end.