Tuning straight methanol, gots a question for the meth freaks..
06-06-2006, 09:17 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by wicked_95z
I know on my alky control kit, Julio has added a dual color LED. It turns red when the system has turned on and then it turns green once the pump builds pressure. No pressure, no green light as I understand it
06-06-2006, 11:37 PM
#43
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Good find. Not much info on that page, though... I can't tell what the indicator setup is: small LED, what? I would assume that the indicator mounts in the cabin?
I wonder what it's reading/measuring to know the difference between flow and clog?
I wonder what it's reading/measuring to know the difference between flow and clog?
06-07-2006, 05:36 AM
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An indicator is good and all but is there enoguh time, when your blasting down the track, to see the LED and shut it down or let out it before something bad happens??
06-07-2006, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Mine also. Unfortunately pressure does not indicate flow. If the nozzle or line plugs up, you will build pressure all day long but it won't be getting to the engine.
Keep a tab on where the transition based on your setting affects the change of pressure. So lets say for example at 6 PSI it goes green... I want to see it go green at 6 PSI .. any change to that gives you an indication for something to look for, as a change occured.
The test button can also be used to test the system. There are other ways to make safeguards, but my favorite is a wideband display.. as soon as you stand on the throttle.. you see your AFR's drop to 11.5:1.. all is well.. remember alky is not the only part of the equation, so is your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors, ecm, etc.. all play a role at WOT..
HTH
06-07-2006, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
I'm thinking of getting one of these "clog detectors" as a failsafe.
Tooo late 
06-07-2006, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
before track passes i always purge my meth until the engine stumbles to know that next time it comes on it will be working
06-07-2006, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by lcvette
now also stated above was mention of water being a better cooling component then methanol.. I have also read this and although the specific power output of the mixture will go down as water is not combustable, it will in fact add the advantage of cooling the crowns of the pistons while being turned to steam in the chamber. also it helps to keep plugs clean and remove carbon deposits which in turn staves off detonation. so my question would be for a street/strip setup wouldn't it be advantageous to continue to use a mix of meth and water but perhaps change the mixture to 60% meth / 40% water? or until you find a happy medium of the two? I was warned about running straight meth while still using gasoline is why I ask this, I may have been mislead in that statement but for somereason I remember the explanation being sound.
thanks in advance.
Chris
thanks in advance.
Chris
Put it on a Dyno.. play with your mixing.. post back "Real" results. All else is internet speculation from 14 second cars.
It is easier on the pump/lines/tanks/fittings to run water.. that is why its suggested.
HTH
06-07-2006, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wicked_95z
An indicator is good and all but is there enoguh time, when your blasting down the track, to see the LED and shut it down or let out it before something bad happens??
Aftermarket DFI will help, my FAST will add up to 25% fuel if it senses a lean condition.. I run mine -2 to -4 % correction.. and if it blows the FPR line.. it will open up the injectors for instance.
Maybe/possibly/hopefully catching/saving the engine.
06-07-2006, 09:37 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by Julio
Yes but seeing a red to green transition will let you know the lines are functioning. The inline filter will pickup a bunch of trash so it doesnt accumulate on the nozzle.. clogging it. And if you poured a bucket of sand into your reservoir.. you wouldnt get the green light condition
Keep a tab on where the transition based on your setting affects the change of pressure. So lets say for example at 6 PSI it goes green... I want to see it go green at 6 PSI .. any change to that gives you an indication for something to look for, as a change occured.
The test button can also be used to test the system. There are other ways to make safeguards, but my favorite is a wideband display.. as soon as you stand on the throttle.. you see your AFR's drop to 11.5:1.. all is well.. remember alky is not the only part of the equation, so is your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors, ecm, etc.. all play a role at WOT..
HTH
Keep a tab on where the transition based on your setting affects the change of pressure. So lets say for example at 6 PSI it goes green... I want to see it go green at 6 PSI .. any change to that gives you an indication for something to look for, as a change occured.
The test button can also be used to test the system. There are other ways to make safeguards, but my favorite is a wideband display.. as soon as you stand on the throttle.. you see your AFR's drop to 11.5:1.. all is well.. remember alky is not the only part of the equation, so is your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors, ecm, etc.. all play a role at WOT..
HTH
Just have to train myself now to keep focus on the AFR and LED when stomping it. Also testing before a pass at the track is a good idea.
Great kit BTW! Thanks so much for it and the support getting it fired up!
06-07-2006, 02:44 PM
#53
Originally Posted by Julio
Its a hobbs switch tied into the nozzle line. The way it works is you go WOT.. if the indicator stays on after you lift... your nozzle is clogged Tooo late
Tooo late Well, thanks for the heads up, guess thats checked off. I do run an inline filter.
Originally Posted by Julio
There are other ways to make safeguards, but my favorite is a wideband display.. as soon as you stand on the throttle.. you see your AFR's drop to 11.5:1.. all is well.. remember alky is not the only part of the equation, so is your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors, ecm, etc.. all play a role at WOT..
Until I have the $$ to afford your kit, i'll have to stick to what I have and go from there. It might not be considered the "best" but its working perfectly for me now.
14 sec cars? Don't see much of those here on LS1tech
Thanks for the advice here and on turbobuick,
J
