All my current mods are in my sig. I am playing around with the idea of eventually getting a Procharger, however I was told that my cam is anything but the optimum choice for this. Would I loose boost because of this cam? What kind of cam should I be running to make the most out of a procharger, and how will that cam sound like?

I love how my car sounds right now with partially open cutout, just wouldn't mind having that procharger sound along with it. My buddy just put a Vortech on his S2000, and it just sounds cool.

Call me weird, but I add go fast goodies mostly because of the sound, I really don't race my car at all.

But I am trying to achieve somewhere in the 450 rwhp range, I guess that's achievable?

Thanks!

Manny

 

The reason that they are saying that it's not advisable is because you have quite a bit overlap and that's going to allow the boost to escape thru the exhaust before being compressed...That being said you can probably make more horsepower from using the stock cam or a Z06 cam with a Procharger...alot of people running SC cars are making 450rwhp with no other mods except for a tune with it...I think if you change your cam to something a little tamer that you will be just fine...but these are just my .02

 

Its not the perfect cam but it will work. 500rwhp with D1 not spining hard with that cam will be no problem at all with some fuel system ungrades and long tube headers. You may have to spin the blower a little faster to make the same power as a 'blower' cam but it will work.

 

And if I were to add heads on top of that....then I should probably upgrade my stock rear, huh?

With a blower, would it be more advisable to use AFR 205's or 225's?

 

I wouldn't add better flowing heads on top of this combination until you do forged internals, as you'd be pushing past what I consider to be too much power on the stock pistons.
With your car having an M6, I'm surprised your 10 bolt rear is still hanging in there. I'd start saving for a Moser 9 inch. Bob

 

I would change the cam out to like a 218/224 or 224/232. Something with a little bit more of split duration and a little higher LSA like 114 or higher. That is just my .02 cents though. It will work but is not the best option I believe.

 

You will be fine IMO. You will see a slight gain possibly not definatly not enough to justify a cam change, especially since you aren't trying to go on kill mode. I've had several different cams in my FI car and one of the favorites was a 224 cam

 

Thanks for the input guys! I think I am gonna skip the heads....for the money I'd spend on them, I just won't see that much of a power difference. Heads will gain me what... 30 to 40 rwhp? I'd rather keep saving and have something under the hood that will add to the fun noises the car already makes!

And Bob, I am taking it pretty easy on my car for the most part. It's never been on the track, and I actually don't race on the street. I just like the noises all those go fast parts make, and the looks I get on red lights. On top of that, my tires are pretty much gone, so I really don't have any traction, I can spin those 315's till the cows come home easily in the first two gears, be it a 30 or 50 mph roll I think what also helps keeping that thing alive is that I have no wheel hop thanks to the LCA's and adjustable Torque Arm.....this was all advice I took from you. I upgraded those parts before doing the cam and headers, and I am very happy with the setup.

I really appreciate your good advice Bob, and you'll probably be the first one I'll call when it comes time for a rear end and supercharger

Manny

 

I vote for running the cam you have. Try it and have some fun now. Save a few bucks for another day.

 

i am running the T/R 230 reverse split with 111 lsa with my turbo set up. not ideal but it works. i am at 475 hp with 4.5 lbs of boost on the dyno i am running 7 lbs on the street.

 

That Cam will work fine

 

Now it's just a matter of coming up with the money.

Being that the car is tuned for the cam....will the tune be totally off if I just throw a blower on it? Or can I still make it to my tuner without trailering it?

 

You are going to have to change the injectors for the blower so you can't drive it until you get the pcm calibrated for them. A lot of our customers who do the work themselves will drive the car to the shop then change the injectors in the parking lot.....Not too advisable though because if you see any boost.....BAD things will happen. The best thing to do if it is a hasle for you to trailer it would be take the pcm to your tuner have them make the proper changes in order for the car to run with whatever changes you've made then take the car to them when its done in order to get it fully tuned.

 

I have the old Hotcam some over lap as well with the 112lsa and 218/227 durration. But I'm seeing 15psi of boost with my D1SC

Clint

 

Yeah, it's going to be a while for this project.....probably not until next year.

 

Save the $$ you were planning for heads and get a real blower cam in there. I recomend roughly a 230/240 with a 115 LSA for a good blower cam. Why spend $5K or more and not have your motor to it's full potential?

 

damn drewstein those are some bad *** numbers you got there wahts the secret? lol

 

I ran that exact cam before the new engine with no problem.

 

I cammed the crap out of the car. Those cam specs are what I'm running and I love it. Yes it lopes when at idle, but I love that sound anyways. Even if it made this gay laughing sound instead of the cam loping, I would get it because it's the way to more power.

 

Drewstein, what are your cam numbers?

Jim