The theory has a point... I understand where he is coming from. As the exhaust temperature spikes up under load the molecules will go nuts trying to get away from each other making the charge going to the turbo much better for spooling because that volume would have filled the pipe, rather than keeping it cool and dense, but not completely "filling" the pipe, then hitting the turbo.

 

Could we have some more info on the actual paint itself? Where did you get it and what was the cost? Have you done your y-pipe as well?

 

Sorry, I meant Charles Law, not Boyles.... whoops. Fixed the posts. I mixed them up.

 

It would seem that this provides a good solution for those running rear mounts. With the turbo so far back, and heat being one of the factors needed in a turbo setup, it would seem logical to wrap or coat your exhaust to maintain or limit the amount of heat lose before the turbo inlet.

A front mount would also benefit but it being so close that the amount of heat lose wont be as great as running a turbo at the rear of the vehicle. Still, i would or i'm gonna either wrap or coat my hot pipes just to keep un hood temps done a bit besides adding more turbo efficiency, though not by a whole much.

Question, you mentioned a change in gears, ws that your rear gear to a 2.75 or your first gear in the th400?

 

Paint was from home depot rated for 1200 degrees, thin it cost $3.

All pipes have been painted. Stopped by Jon's house (1320), the guy who did the work on my car and he had his headers painted and wraped in header wrap. We'll soon see if it makes a difference on his car. After swapping to headers his car would not make more than 7psi and it takes FOREVER to get there.

Talked to DarkBlueTA today too. When he mentioned the turbo in the back to a thermodynamic engineer where he works the guy said to paint the exhaust white too LOL.

 

Rear gear is going to be a 2.75 when ever I can get the swap done.

 

Thanks!! Where in Home Depot do you get 1200 degree paint???? Is it in the normal paint section, lol! Can't think of where it would be!

 

Maybe your headers had a leak.

 

Since a short pipe would mean hotter exhaust...what about trying to install a turbo in the factory cat location? There is already heat shields. I don't think ground clearance would be that bad(since it is raised). Running the airfilter and pipe to the TB might be problem... Maybe someone could figure it out. What do you think?

 

That is approximately where aps places the turbos in their twin kit for gto's. From the pictures I've seen, they look very low.

 

Originally when I was going to build my kit, I was going to use 2 t3/t4 hybrids that would support just over 400hp each and run them off each bank and put them in those locations. After buying them, putting them up under there, i turned around and sold them. Flat out not enough ground clearance for my liking, the turbos would be the very first thing to make contact with the ground, and that's all I would need is to break turbos, especially while they're spooled up, and shooting broken pieces up the charge pipe.

 

I can actually explain this with some "basic....and I mean basic physics (I'm hardly a rocket scientist ). The deal is based on "Bernoulli's Principle of flow (think I spelled that right). Anyhow, a given volume of air travelling through a tube of x diameter moves at a certain speed. If that tube is then restricted, the speed of the sir must increase to flow the same volume. This increase in speed (which also produces increased heat from friction) is what is driving the turbo to spool faster. So, this actually makes sense. Without the additional boost, it would probably not be a gain in power as the exhaust IS more restrictive.....but the increase HP from increased boost pressure is greater than the loss of HP due to exhaust restriction.

Simple, yes...... but it is a logical answer

 

Very well put Schantin...

 

NO! I don't want to sound like a dick but that is not even close to the correct reason. Has nothing to do with the velocity, just the pressure.

EVERYONE WITH OTHER THEORIES PLEASE REPEAT AFTER ME!

Heating a gas creates volume. Volume with no where to expand to creates pressure.

 

Prostock John, the headers didn't have any leaks, no carbon tracks anywhere. One of my manifolds has developed an audible leak right now and I haven't even noticed any difference in spool. I've run the car with an O2 sensor missing and the car would still make 8 psi even with the long tube headers, now thats an exhaust leak!

Why is it so complicated for people to understand that headers have a lot more surface area and thus remove heat from the exhaust faster? Maybe people just don't want to believe reality

Donny thinks it's vacuum!

 

Ok....but isn't the added pressure still a by-product of the heat + velocity speed due to the smaller diameter space? Not arguing....but I still like my theory (It's derived from the flow rate of air into the compressor of turbine engines, which are essentially turbos that drive a direct gear.)

 

o raise the velocity you need to raise the pressure. Velocity is the by product only because as the exhuast gas exits the cylinder its only job is get to atmospheric pressure.....get out of the pipe. The size of the pipe is almost inrrelavent. Actually the larger the y pipe and larger the headers the better buts its small compared to the other problems. The volume is basically a given, the engine pretty much is only going to produce a given amount of exhuast for a given condition. The pressure can be raised by keeping heat in the exhuast pipe. To do that you want to pipe itself to be the same temp as the gas, so it doesn t look to transfer. The exhuast housing could be changed, but ideally you want the largest housing you can run to make the most power. Headers= about 1500 cubic inched of surface area, a 12 ft section of 3 inch exhuast is about 1300 cubic inches, manifolds.....what about 40? To largest heat dissipation is at the pint of highest temp to lowest....ie the headers at the there hottest point, so to have exhuast manifolds equal the heat heat disipation as headers....you would probably mount the turbo around 30-35 ft away down the exhuast.....imagine that, the turbo behind the car 20 ft or so, thats basically the comparison if you run headers to a manifold car. The key is run headers and keep the egt in the pipe. Ideally have the exhuast ceramic coated white then wrap. In the real world, 1200 degree white barbeque paint by itself will make a difference but fiberglass wrap is also decent at keeping heat in. Glass itself is a bad insulator but air is execellent, so wrapping the exhuast and trapping heated air close to the header surface deters heat transfer through the header.

For mycobra kit I m doing a twin turbo ls1 with about 18 inch long headers with turbos mounted next to the engine, the headers will be ceramic coated white then wrapped, and it should allow larger then normal turbos to be used or atleast larger exhuast housings and still get then going quickly.

 

so it would be good to say get your hotside parts powdercoated white? What wrap are you using to wrap everything and from where back are you doing so?

 

I think he means square inches.

 

Zombie is a noob. Im a Rocket scientist and he definatly didnt have teh boost gauge hooked up right and the turbo was workin fine before. Kick him off the board he knows nothing!!


John