Ok, ive searched about 6 times for this answer and although i got alot of other good information i was unable to find exactly what im looking for. So, how much boost can the LS1 stock bottom end handle from an ATI Procharger D1-SC without blowing up?

Ive also heard that ported heads will allow you to run more boost because of lower pressure but the person who mentioned it was referring to a turboed application. not sure if its the same for a supercharger or what?

And lastly, how common is it to see a kit like this in the for sale section? i know on mustang sites superchargers are all over the place, but at 6k a pop i wasnt sure how often people sell them. so should i wait around for a good used one or just say screw it and buy a new one?

thanks for the help guys.

 

I've found that 8psi is good for stock bottom end applications. That type of boost is and a D1SC is usually good for upper 400's rear wheel power.

The better flowing the motor is, the less boost you will ultimately make, but all that means is you have less restriction to the flow. More air will be moving through the motor, and as long as you add more fuel, you'll make more power. For example, after you swapped out the stock heads for ported heads, you would be able to run a smaller pulley with a similar max boost level.

Used procharger kits come up for sale all the time, keep your eye out.

 

its not about psi imo, its about the combo

 

I understand a combo will make a ton of power but the whole reason i wanted to go F/I was to be able to keep good gas mileage and not have to worry about rough idle on a daily driven car.

Also in this article http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=12 it seems all they did was add full bolt ons, take out the a/c, add a 12bolt with 3.73's, and ad a 4" pully with an underdrive pulley and it made 13lbs of boost and 540hp . and it has 126k miles!! seems like i might be missing something, can someone explain that? id prefer to make about 500hp from boltons and the blower then id be happy with my 6k. or however much.

 

Rough idle is usually a result of an aftermarket cam or large injectors not finely tuned. Don't focus on boost - focus on power. I'd try to keep the power under 550 at the tires. The stock bottom end can handle quite a bit more than that, but you have to be prepared to buy a new long block if you want to play on the edge.

 

My 126k '99 Z28 that was pushing 15 psi and making 540 rwhp was a science experiment of sorts. We knew it wouldn't stay together, although it lasted longer than we thought it would.
I recommend the ATI ProCharger D-1SC and 8 psi of boost, you can push a little more if you have a good tune and keep the power at approx 500 rwhp on a loaded type of dyno, which would be 540 to 550 rwhp on a Dynojet unloaded dyno. Bob

 

The reason you see experienced installers such as Bob mention a boost level in psi is that you are talking about a mostly stock engine combination and 8 psi produces a similar level of power between cars with similar engine setups.

Sure modifications such as extensive head work, cam swap, headers and lower compression ratios will change the breathing characteristics substantially. 8 psi on the gauge with a modified engine will make more power than the stock combo and the same map reading. More air is flowing through the engine which demands/allows higher airflow from the supercharger to maintain the same manifold pressure. In that case the power increase is due to the better breathing characteristics of the combination combined with the ability to increase the air density (and the resulting heat from charge compression) back up to the stock "boost" level.

Simply put, maintaining 8 psi in the modified engine requires more airflow and will make more power than the stock engine at a 8 psi max. It will also require more durability than the stock cast piston shortblock will reliably supply. This is why people set a cutoff point for boost on a stock engine. A higher boost level will generate more heat (higher IAT) and if it were to detonate it would stand a higher chance of causing catostrophic damage to your engine.

ATI and others have found that the LS1 will generally tolerate 8 psi on a stock engine with appropriate pump gas and intercooling. With the higher static compression of the LS2 6-7 psi is considered safe. Your use and mileage will vary. ATI's kits are developed with BP 92 octane fuel on a Mustang eddy current dyno. If you're lucky enough to have a Sunoco station that sells 94 octane the boost level and corresponding tune could be tweaked to make a bit more power safely due to the higher knock tolerance of the fuel. The inverse is also true. If you live in California it is suggested to drop 1 psi of boost in order to live happily with the crap "premium" fuel often found in the state.

Sorry for the long windedness, I just wanted to express that when you are dealing with similar engine combinations that referring to a system by boost level in psi is perfectly acceptable to use as a metric for comparison.

 

Between 8 and 10 lbs depending on tune. I can't stress how important it is to have the proper tune and not have one mailed to you from across the country.
Waste of money to port heads on mild boosted apps. If you need more flow, up the psi. That's why we don't buy any of the FAST intake parts as well. We can run stock heads and LS6 intake manifolds and make tons of power.

 

Wow i really appreciate all the info guys, so ill definetly go with a d1-sc and about 8 psi and shoot for around 500hp on the mustang dyno. and no mailorder tune bs. thanks again.

 

you got it, now wasn't that simple?!

Also, personally, i would opt for a new kit. You will have a nice warranty given your particular application and knowing that no else has messing with it is important, well, for me it is. I like new stuff!!!

The mailorder tune is ok to get you started and driving around.. but not for WOT applications. Wait, does ATI offer a mailorder tune? If not, dont worry about it... start now by looking into a a tunning software. HPtuners just came out with some loving for the 98's with their 2bar setup. Basically, you'll have the ability to dial in car and tailor its driving characteristics to your liking... You would need to study a bit once you got it the jist of it, your home free!!

good luck!! I think a new disc kit goes for 5k if im not mistaken...chekout EPP, they have done a few of those....

 

ATI does offer a mail order tune for the P-1SC, but not for the D-1SC. I recommend the D-1SC and I would get it tuned by someone who has a lot of experience tuning these engines with forced induction. I don't recommend that you purchase your own software and learn to do programming and make a forced induction engine your first tune. Too much to learn, and your engine could suffer. Bob

 

I'm running 6 psi and my entire engine is bone stock. I have to run 91 octane because that is all thats available around here. But at 6# and exhaust, I make 489 rwhp and I still get 19 mpg average 50/50 city/ hwy. It is my daily driver and I am very happy with the setup. I could up the boost maybe a little with a pulley, but I don't want to push anything to the point of being on the line of disaster. And my tune is pretty conservative IMO at 20° timing, and <12.0 a/f.

 

Nice numbers ChevyChad, i geuss i underestimated these things assuming about 8lbs would only get me around 450rwhp.

Also, how much of a problem is belt slip with these things, should i look into some type of anti slip belt or pulley, or does it not happen that often?

and lastly, i was reading the thread on H/C/Nitrous vs F/I and alot of people were talking about how F/I can be a pain in the ***, they said there are alot of "querks" that go along with it. From my opinion i would assume bolting on an s/c with a some piping would be ten times easy than running nitrous lines and ripping apart the internals of your motor.

 

Definately upgrade to an 8 rib setup. I bought mine used with 6 rib pullies, but I didn't even bother installing it on mine after all the slippage issues I had read about on here. So I got 8 rib pullies and never looked back and never had an issue with slipping.

As far as the qwerks you hear about FI are often on turbo cars. Turbos are definately more efficient and easier to change boost levels, but take a LOT more work to get them dialed in and running properly. I think that is partially because on a SC the power is mostly linear with RPM- making tuning easier IMO. I've never dealt with a turbo personally, but all the people I know who have usually end up with a lot of issues before they get their car driveable. With my setup, I was literally driving within a week from when I first popped the hood for install. It could have easily been done over a weekend, but I had some parts I was waiting on before I could button everything back up. I'll probably get flamed (especially in this section) for saying all that, but this is all of coarse just IMHO