I am in the market for a meth kit and this thread is very helpful... one thing I have had in my head for a while now is coming up with a direct port spray bar to go along the kit.. but I don't know enough about the kits or nozzle sizes to start the build.. it would be on an LT4 also so it would be quite different then the LSx. I figured a tube that ran front to back inside the plenum with 8 nozzles pointing into each intake runner to help with any distribution issues the LTx manifolds have.. has anyone successfully buuilt a direct port meth setup and if so.. have any idea what nozzles would work.. i know every build will require different sizes, but a rough ballpark would be helpful!

thanks,

Chris

 

This post brings up a valuable point. That is once you have a forced induction vehicle, you need to have a hightened sense of awareness with the tuneup being run. The higher the power levels, the higher the boost, the closer one takes the motor to the edge.. the more levels of safety on needs to implement.

Issues like knock activity, air fuel ratio, egt, and timing become very critical. And must be observed/recorded to assure no abnormalities. One of the biggest mistakes that I feel can happen is to hurt an engine and not have data as to why it happened.

A simple failsafe for air fuel is a wideband display.. if you stand on the gas.. the air fuel better not go any higher than you set your tuneup for. Some now can be set to fire a warning device like a shift lite in case the parameter has been been met. So you go WOT.. air fuel goes 12.7:1.. LITE goes on.. then you can lift and see what happened.

Aftermarket computers like FAST, BS3, AEM all have correction limits that can be set in case the motor goes lean... it will open the flood gates. My FAST is set to -3,+25% correction.. so if it goes lean.. it can add up to 25% fuel. WIll this fix all.. no.. but it cant hurt.

The middle/end of last year there were some pumps the MFG screwed up on.. it cuased me to re-evaluate how things were being done and make changes to procedure.. not trusting my suppliers anymore and having to go through the entire pumps ourselves. To that, since Oct 1'st 2005 I have not had a single pump failure of any kind. It doesnt mean I will never see another bad pump.. I could only wish.. but as technology changes.. things get better.

I truly feel sorry for anyone who has used the product and had an issue. And the pump issue while now going on a year old.. has left a mark on me. Engineermike if a part of the system has failed, let me know. This is the only way improvements can be made. If an installation issue arose.. let me know, as I can add further documentation to help an issue from surfacing in the future.

If you wish to wire in fail safes.. I can assist as well. There are many that can be added. Likewise if your having someone do the tuneup or doing it yourself.. call me and discuss the strategy. I race my car every week.. and when it's broken, have felt really bad.

Thanks guys for the support.

J.

 

Julio... great information. I think it is good that you stand by your product. I am also always sorry to hear when someone blows up 5k worth of stuff over 5$ worth of stuff?!?

So if I am spraying a progressive shot of Meth... what kind of knock retard am I going to see? Is this equal to running 105 octane vs: 93? Can that even be quantified?

 

Aint it the truth.

The octane issue has to do with volume sprayed in. As the higher the volume, the more your cutting your fuel, the higher detonation resistance provided. Having a knock sensor and keeping your air fuels mild(mid 11's) its easy to zero in a tuneup. As far as knock retard you'll see.. the answer is none if sufficient methanol is shot in.

But oversaturation can also decrease HP.. so any amount just doesnt work. Typically based on HP you can figure airflow.. based on airflow.. nozzle sizing can be accomplished. And then how much it does on pump by itself vs what your trying to run.. that also affects nozzle sizing. Typically a 15-20% fuel replacement will zero out the KR.

I had a guy with a 66 MM turbo on a Buick GN called me last Thursday.. we were talking and I asked how much boost he was running?? His answer was on the 30 PSI autometer mechanical guage, he was on the second screw.. Can this kind of boost level be run on 105? No way. Even on 116 it gets very iffy.. if the IC isnt doing its job due to temps out of the turbo.. easy math.. 37 PSI = 407 degree's + ambient.. So even with a badd azz IC. He still would be in the 200's without meth.. which is too hot..

The fastest full weight stock turbo Turbo Buick in the land ran 11.37@116.5 on a stock motor, stock turbo, stock heads, cam, pistons, rings, bearings, block, etc... 130K mile motor. 92 octane and methanol. 28 PSI first gear, tapering down to 23 PSI in 3rd.. running out of air..

If it can do the numbers on C16.. it will do it on meth+93. If it wont do the numbers on C16.. dont expect it to miraculously do it on meth+93. Easy to get greedy. And requires a little more work on the tuneup to get the proper amount of alky shot in.

The datalogs will set you free

 

datalogs? To what are you refering? And what are you looking for? Knock?

 

Intake air temp, knock activity, air fuel ratio, injector duty cycle, timing, and if possible egt.

EGT confirms knock sensor. Cannot have stable EGT's if your detonating.

Intake air temp shows charge temp

Injector duty cycle shows if your running out of gas.

Air fuel ratio confirms tuneup and/or issues.

Hope the screen capture shows some data.

 

Blue line in center shows intake air temp. Bar is where data was captured. Run was 10.55 at 132.22 3850 lb car 93 octane + methanol.

In May this year repeated 10.57 at 132.5 1.61 60 foot.

V6 turbo in an 89 TA. still has the stock cast pistons

 

I went with the Snow kit and after 2-3 years and numerous problems, I will be making a trip to see Julio. I went with the Snow kit to save money because "all meth kits do the same thing". This is NOT TRUE. Snow has been good to me, they have sent 2 replacement pumps, but now my 3rd has starting leaking and Ive had enough. The fittings started leaking and I had to cover the fittings with silicone. It looks like crap. I cant complain about the nozzles or the controller as both are good, I would like to get just the lines and pump, but we will see what can be done. I shouldve gone with Julio in the first place, wouldve been much cheaper and alot less hassle.
Can I get the lines pump and fittings without a whole kit??

 

I'm not a vendor on LS1tech. And dont want to do step on any toes. I dont mind helping anyone with a meth system or tuning thereof. We are all racers/enthusiast trying to gain additional power.. And learn

If you need specific details on my own system, contact me off board.

 

great info guys...

this quote from gmhightechperformance article that mentions Julio's kit is great...

 

poll went on long enough