d1sc numbers
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d1sc numbers i have a 99z28 bone stock other than 3.73's and compucar 150 wet. just bought a d1sc kit. with 38.5 injectors, inline fuel pump, and predator ( the same stuff that comet with the7lb p1sc kit) and the 4.5" intercoolers with the 8 rib pully. also bought mac mids and y pipe. the car has hotchkis lowering kit ss hood and spoiler (not that it matters). i am considering keeping the juice and lowering the pills. any suggestions/ what do you think it should put to the ground? will be going to doctor performance in weatherford for tuning as soon as they get the new dyno up. 
your bottom end is going to like you very much : ). Do you have rod bolts or anything bottom end wise? I'm guessin not being that you didnt list them, but I'd be afraid to spray over a 50 shot or so on 7psi with the stock bottom end. You could spray the 150 shot but i guess it just depends on how long you want it to hold up? Hopefully you have a stronger clutch to hold the power as it will not like the sudden "awakening..."
I wouldn't spray a stock bottom end with the addition of forced induction, unless you're planning on rebuilding the engine shortly thereafter. If you still decide to do so, I would jump up to 60lb fuel injectors before you get it tuned. Bob
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the juice is just a thought figured 50 off the line. the A4 is new and is the rear. i have 8 3/4 with moser axles, pro carrier and 4.10's to put in.just need to get brackets to weld on. but don't need it yet. any clue on expected times???
Couldn't tell you times but I have a question about the motor for anybody reading this...
Instead of rebuilding the entire motor, could he just install the rod bolts, main studs and forged pistons and be set?
Instead of rebuilding the entire motor, could he just install the rod bolts, main studs and forged pistons and be set?
I know people are swaping rod bolts on motors. Dont know about the mains though. Youd have to pull the rods with the pistons and you need to install new bearings at that point and you dhould pull the crank to have it at least polished at that point = rebuild.
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ok another question. would i be better off with the pro 1 225cc heads with dual springs and titanium retainers or single springs with stell on a stock cam or a pair ported 5.3 heads and cam? i am leaning towards the pro 1 doubles and upgrade later on the cam, just worried about spring pressure.http://www.mbeperformance.com/pro1-c...bly-p-149.html. i hope its ok to post this. i figured this way you could see the set up. thanks 
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I think you would be better off getting a set of Patriot LQ9 truck heads. They have the 72 cc chambers that would lower your compression down some. You can pick them up for $1100 shipped brand new from Byunspeed.com (sponsor)
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Originally Posted by Jimmy P
I think you would be better off getting a set of Patriot LQ9 truck heads. They have the 72 cc chambers that would lower your compression down some. You can pick them up for $1100 shipped brand new from Byunspeed.com (sponsor)
That's the same cam I was looking at running! High LSA of like 114-115 right? I ended up deciding to get the stealth II at 224/220 @.050 and .581/.581 on a 116LSA. I would not recommend a shot of NOS unless you build that bottom end up man, you're just ASKING for it to grenade, and I mean GRENADE! Those injectors FLAT OUT will not be enough with that much boost AND a shot, I guarantee you that. One thing at a time bud, time to start shopping for a forged shortblock at the very least before that one comes apart.
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yes it is the one with 115 lobe sep. i don't plan on juicing but it'll be there if i do decide to. the juice has its own fuel pump and tank with 116 octane running wet. so i hope it'll survive on a 50 hp shot. my trans is getting rebuilt @ the dealer with upgraded clutches. can anyone give an educated guess on power to the ground with this setup?
