I have a stock motor with a GMMG catback. Since I'm coming up on paying off my car, I want to add some power so i'm looking into getting a procharger. My question is, should I just order one and bolt it on the stock motor or are there certian things I should do to the motor first? Ultimately I want to do heads, cam and headers so should I do these first? I will not drag race the car on a regular basis, only once and a while. I just want a streetable car with big HP. Thanks...

 

call bob at epp.

 

if you own a home, take out a 2nd mortagage

 

I have been considering this as well. Such as only going 5psi so that I could keep headaches to a minimum. Is that so unreasonable?

 

Stock porcharger setup is pretty reliable except for idler pulleys and keeping on the belt. main thing is to pin the stock balancer and make sure the bolt doesnt bottom out. Other then that it makes for a pretty reliable 450-500rwhp setup with headers. Plus it has decent resale and you dont have to hack up the car, its a fairly easy install.

I had a couple stock engined cars with P1SC kits and I was pretty happy with them, just get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing and get a decent set of headers.

 

I just recently put on a D1SC on my relatively stock car (mods are in my sig) and absolutely love it. I see about 5-6PSI with the pully Bob @ EPP set me up with. I'm starting to already want more though. I see heads/cam/new rear and built transmission in my future... It's like crack, you just can't give up the addiction.

Aside from the Procharger kit you'll need a new fuel pump and injectors.

Like KP said, be sure to key the crank/balancer. I've yet to have any problems with the idler pulleys or keeping on the belt but I've only put on about 1500 miles so far with the blower installed. The problem I'm having is oil getting under the car from the stupid PCV system, need to figure out how to fix that one of these days.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread but it seems that my situation is relevant. My heads flow killer and I'm at about 410rwhp using about 55% of the duty cycle with my 38lb injectors. So if I only go up to 5-6lbs should these still work fine?

 

I wouldnt run anything less then 42s if you have heads/cam. they may work but if you keep a stockish fuel pump setup the bigger injectors will get you a little more room. Honestly there is no reason not to just put some 60lb injectors in the car, they work just fine on a stock engine.

The ATI inline pump + stock fuel pump and 42lb injectors got me well in the 10s in my old SS with a P1SC and a 6 rib and stock engine + headers, LS1 intake and all. 10.89 and 10.60s with a small dry shot..

 

Did the ATI kits come with the inline fuel pump? I saw it in refferenced in the manual but i didnt get one iwth my D1SC kit, i know your supposed to upgrae the fuel system with pump and injectors. Just wondering if i was supposed to get one and didnt (even thought its too late to get one at this point if i did get screwed)

 

They dont come with the inline pump anymore I dont think, I got one with the first kit I bought that used an FMU (one of the first LS1 procharger kits they sold) and I bought one seperate for the second P1SC kit I had from a procharger dealer for like 150.00. Its as plug and play as you can get and its enough for 500rw pretty reliably. Just nice you dont have to screw with dropping the tank but I'm not sure if they still sell them or not.

 

The P-1SC complete kits still come with an inline fuel pump, at least to my knowledge. The D-1SC can only be had as a "tuner" kit. For those who don't know, the tuner kit comes with the complete ProCharger kit, but lacks the fuel injectors, fuel pump, and the supplied tune that the complete P-1SC comes with. The tuner kit can be had with either the P-1SC or the D-1SC. There is an eight rib belt upgrade from the six rib belt system, and requires a different harmonic balancer. The six rib belt system is standard on the P-1SC, and is an option. Another option is the one inch thicker 4.5" twin high flow intercoolers.

The D-1SC serpentine race kit automatically comes with the eight rib upgrade belt system, and the thicker 4.5" twin high flow intercoolers.
You will need to purchase fuel injectors, and as KP has suggested, 60lb injectors are a good way to go. The prices on injectors have come down to where we sell the 60lb Siemens injectors for $420.00.
You will also need a larger fuel pump. The Racetronix intank F Body kit is a good way to go, and I suggest using it.
You will also need to purchase an ATI Performance Products (a totally different company from ATI ProCharger) harmonic balancer, which goes for $450.00. You will also need an ATI Performance Products pinning kit, which is $120.00.
Now all that is needed is to install everything but the injectors, then drive the car (part throttle only) to a reputable place that is experienced in tuning our cars, install the injectors once you are there, and get it tuned. Most tunes are roughly $450.00.
Hopefully what I just wrote isn't too confusing... I sort of have a hangover and I'm only on my third cup of coffee! Bob

 

do yourself a favor and go directly to bob at EPP to get your stuff and make sure you take your car to him for tuning. his guys are THE ****!!! extremely helpful and knowledgable, great prices too. definatly one of the true ls1 gurus. I trailered my car to him all the way from buffalo and it was worth the trip, my car is perfect. there are some other sponsors out here that claim to know what the hell there doing and I learned first hand that some of them dont know ****! I spent a lot of money fixing my car because I wanted to get it done locally and it got really Fd up. I dont think you will find anyone on the internet with a better reputation then EPP. Ill be going back there in the spring after I build something SICK!!!

 

Thanks, I appreciate it! Bob

 

Here is a list of items that I recently put together for building up the chassis prior to adding the horsepower. People are always asking the question of whether to go with a head and cam package, or go with a supercharger or turbocharger. There is no way you are going to match the power of an ATI ProCharger with a head and cam package unless you use a pretty radical camshaft, or spend a lot of money in a complete engine/head package. Nitrous oxide could be used instead of going the forced induction route, with very good results at a fraction of the cost. A cold air kit would be required if you elect to use nitrous oxide instead of going the forced induction (ATI ProCharger) route. The ATI ProChargers come with a K&N cone filter. With forced induction, such as the ATI ProCharger, the power is always going to be there when you want it, with no nitrous bottles to constantly refill. A turbocharger could be used instead of an ATI ProCharger, but I am not convinced that the turbo kits currently out on the market will stand the test of time. TurboChargers go through extreme heat cycles, which can fracture the turbo housing mounts.
With the items listed below, your car would be quite capable of routinely running low eleven second 1/4 mile times, or faster, when combined with the M/T Street radial rear tires.

Everyone has their opinions on what is the best package, and here is mine.

1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction.

2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction.

3. Moser 12 bolt or 9 inch - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:73 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine.
I really prefer the Moser 9 inch over the Moser 12 bolt, as I prefer the way Moser designed the torque arm mount on their 9 inch. Both units are basically the same price.

4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 12 bolt/9 inch with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain. I sell the PST driveshafts, which are rated at 1200 hp. I haven't seen one break yet.

5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search on this forum for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails.

At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.

6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed.

7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers.

8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body.

9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace.

10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.

11. Rear coil spring air bags - By experimenting with adding more air to the right air bag than to the left one, better off the line traction can be found.

12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on our cars. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dial. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted.

13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line.

14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Hooker and Flowtech headers, plus the Kooks headers, and the Hooker and Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems.
Flowtech, Hooker and Kooks headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance. The ceramic coatings on coated headers go a long way towards keeping the exhaust temps in the pipes, keeping the engine bay cooler and improving internal exhaust scavenging. These brands of headers will give you 2.5" more in ground clearance compared to SLP headers.
The Hooker and Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.

For those of you who want it loud. If you are looking for an exhaust system that will annoy everyone around you, the two above exhaust systems are not for you. The SLP "Loud Mouth" cat back is a good system for those of you who want to be noticed. When we have one of these cars on my dyno with a loud mouth exhaust system, everyone around our area can hear the car!

15. ATI ProCharger D-1SC eight rib supercharger - Simply the best and easiest way to get 450 to 500 rwhp out of your car in my opinion, when combined with headers and a good cat back exhaust system. The car will still see great part throttle gas mileage, overall driveability will still be excellent, and the power is always there when you want it. At 8 pounds of boost, the car will be very dependable, and with the twin high flow air to air intercoolers, unleaded premium is all you need to use. I recommend the ATI ProCharger D-1SC "tuner" kit, as the D-1SC can handle future mods much better than the P-1SC. You will need 42lb or 60lb fuel injectors, a 255 litre in tank fuel pump, and chassis dyno tuning with the "tuner" kit. The price on 60lb injectors have come down to where I recommend using the 60's, as they will allow you to add more power down the road, if you choose to.

Hopefully this list will help you in your quest for having a quick car! Bob