....oh and forgot to ask, jow big is the 88?? will it fit under there???

Chris.

 

Vince, I was leaning towards the Stage II vs Stage III based upon some of the feedback I was reading about guys having a hard time building boost on big ported heads.

Has anyone else heard of this?

I will post up pictures as soon as I have the turbo in hand. I have been told that physicaly it is not much larger than the 76GTS.... so we will see!

 

I have not heard of this and I would think the heads would have to be messed up themselves to have problems building boost. Just look around at the big cubed guys and see what valves they are running. That should help you with your answer..

 

just a quick question longrange4u, why din't you go for a 427 with the 88??? that would be a killer setup!

Chris

 

Due to cost limitations... I know I keep saying it... and I know its an oxymoron but this is a "Budget, FI, Big HP build"

Erik builds great motors and his prices are good too. It just made sense for me to go 408.

UPDATE* Almost everything is in the Mail... I have enlisted Scott's help also at PT Motorsports and we are all going to knock out allot of this build this comming weekend.

I went with 96lb injectors like many of you suggested... and going to do the dual Walbro 255's intank (Sumping a plastic tank just seems too iffy)

My whole suspension setup is UMI now *Cough* <plug> from K-member and A-arms all the way back to panhard.

TH400 Trans setup arrives this Friday...

Turbo shipped today...

Engine is done or will be done this week (gotta get in touch with Erik)...

Its all comming together... Turbo delay has taken its toll.. I have paid in full (god I hope so).

 

looks like it coming together then longranger4u!

how much do you think the 427 would be over the 408?? (hint tell us how much the 408 set you back!!!)

thanks Chris.

PS. only being cheeky! tell me where to go if you dont want to tell the price! i understand

 

Whats wrong with your setup that you have to have it full all the time? thats BS.

 

WHy dont you have Erik grind you one...He knows the engine and knows your setup...Its pretty much common sense here.

 

Mike the factor is fuel consumption. My 60#ers referenced 1:1 is still @ 108% duty cycle by the end of my runs. This is with a aftermarket fuel system also and a good pump. And these injectors have been running fine @ 80 psi also.

 

dont bother with trying to be the fastest in any class

just do what you can afford and be happy with that

there will allways be someone faster and most likley

its only beacuse they starve their families or they

and just plain RICH!

 

Yeap... already done. Should be here next week.

 

Im asking why he has to have full tank dude...I dont car what injectors are in it.

108% duty cycle can still run fine on 3-4 gallons of gas with a properly sumped tank and fuel setup.

 

its because his tank doesnt have baffles in it so if it isnt full when he hits the brakes at the end of the track his car will cut off. NOT GOOD.

 

I hope the th400 you bought has a t-brake in it. if not, install one before it goes in the car.

you don't need no stinkin' overdrive with a th400, 2.73 or 3.08 gears and a tighter turbo friendly converter. I run 3.50 gears with 31" tires. the car 60's in the low 1.3x's and still cruises hwy speed at around 2300rpms.

contrary to popular belief, you don't need a loose converter to build boost. if it is loose enough to make any boost against the footbrake, you will blow through it on the big end. my fuddle racing converter won't even go 2800 on the footbrake, let alone make any boost at all. but lock the t-brake and activate the 2-step and it will launch at 4800 on 12psi. it took a little trial and error for John and I to get the converter right, but it works great on the track and is tight on the street. a t-brake is the best thing you will ever do for a turbo car if you want any kind of numbers at the track.

 

This is what all I got:

Fully Built TH400
Reverse Manual Valve Body
BTE trans Brake
Has sensors for speedo to work
CSR super sheild
Lokar Dipstick
3500 convertor with anti ballooning plates
B&M flexplate
Tranny Cooler with AN fittings Screwed in tranny and kevlar line goin to cooler
B&M Prostick shifter w/ button on **** for TB and Shifter cable
Denny's nitrous ready driveshaft (th400 - 9 inch)
Auto meter Phantom Trans Temp Guage
6 speed Cross member W/ Trans Mount

 

Who's converter did you go with? Just curious.

 

looks like you have it covered. nice choice of parts. it should work well for you.

 

It has no baffles to control front to rear movement, I figured just looking at the tank it wasnt going to work under hard braking but I tried it anyhow. Under accleration its probably ok since the sump is well placed for that. I didnt buy it new (even though it was brand new) so not much I can but mention it and maybe they will take the 5 minutes to baffle the things from now on. Luckily I have an old speed inc aluminum tank here that is well baffled and whenever I get around to welding up the hole in the top for a 99 sender I'll use that one.

 

Thanks for taking the time to respond to exactly what i was asking. Seems we have a lot of specualtors wanting to post about stuff that isnt even close to what was wrong.

Now, when I sumped my tank, i used a Comp Engineering setup. 1/2 fittings etc....

I took the template they provided and drilled the 5-2" or 2.5" holes like they suggested. Ive run my tank til it was nearly bone dry. Never had an issue with the A1000 ran down that low or nothing. I know what you mean about buying 2nd hand parts though. Sometimes people just do things half *** and it hurts them or someone in the long run when its all said and done. The stock 98 tanks have decent baffling in them as it is, so I drilled the holes and welded the sump around it. Love it. You get that good tank in there the car is going to pick up when you dont have to carry all that gas around down the track..

 

Fuel Consumption? Doesnt sound like it here, its okay young buck. You got lots to learn.