6L Block Iron/Aluminum
I'm thinking that an aluminum block for <700rwhp is a no brainer, but over that, need to look at how hard you are pushing the combo. My understanding is that at extreme power levels the aluminum block's cylinder bores expand and end up a little distorted. And that big blowby is the first sign that the bores are out of round. I've mainly heard this from Kurt @ W2W.
I'm going to push my lil 8:1 348ci, but if it dies I might do a .030 over iron block.
I'm going to push my lil 8:1 348ci, but if it dies I might do a .030 over iron block.
If your plannin on hitting it with any nitrous on top of the D1 at full force id go iron for sure.
So what are the options for the procharger guys with iron blocks? Can you just machine a paice of metal to space the braket out to the appropriate length, or does it shift forward and back and side to side (which way does that bolt hold the braket from moving?) I think i heard the guys that make the fancy belt tensioner also have something for the iron block cars too.
So what are the options for the procharger guys with iron blocks? Can you just machine a paice of metal to space the braket out to the appropriate length, or does it shift forward and back and side to side (which way does that bolt hold the braket from moving?) I think i heard the guys that make the fancy belt tensioner also have something for the iron block cars too.
I have also heard that if you plan on going big power it would be better to use an iron block. The iron block is stronger. Yes we have seen people run crazy times with alum LSX blocks, but not many talk about the in between the runs maintenance. We have some that get lucky and we have some that are not so lucky. It is basically all in what you plan to do with the car. If you are planning to stay only street and keep the horsepower below 800rwhp. I would suggest getting an alum LSX block.
