6L Block Iron/Aluminum
6L Block Iron/Aluminum This is for a procharged aplication runing a D1SC up to 14psi. Ocasional track use but mainly an everyday car. What would I better off be using? I have searched but wanted some opnions on this.
Originally Posted by VINCE
I would like to know this as well. I would have thought by now more would be using the 364 LS2 for FI applications.
if its going in a Fbody than the iron block would be out of the question for me...
the ******* bolt holes on the driver side arent the same and cause a stupid situation...
if the LS2 motor has the same bolt holes as a ls1/ls6 then go LS2 all the way...
i have a iron block right now and im kinda pissed... i'll make it work but i still dont feel good about it...
search my threads and youll see what im talking about.
the ******* bolt holes on the driver side arent the same and cause a stupid situation...
if the LS2 motor has the same bolt holes as a ls1/ls6 then go LS2 all the way...
i have a iron block right now and im kinda pissed... i'll make it work but i still dont feel good about it...
search my threads and youll see what im talking about.
Well i got a price quote from TSP for a built LS2 motor for my Camaro. But I am just wondering about the iron to aluminum. Is 88 pounds really worth an extra $300? From what I am told everything is pretty much a direct replacement going from LS1 to LS2. Unless I am mislead?
There is a few minor things u have to do to go from a ls1 to a ls2. They knock sensos are in a different location so u need to get a vally cover for the LS2 and also the front cover is different. The crank trigger gets moved but only requires longer wires to work the sensor itself is fine. I "think" the timing chain and what not are different as on teh LS2 engines they always say LS2 timing set.
Im weighing the benefits of the LS2 against the Iron block. End up savin about 500-600 between the parts u need to get for a LS2 to work and the actual price difference between teh LS2 and the iron. GL guys
John
Im weighing the benefits of the LS2 against the Iron block. End up savin about 500-600 between the parts u need to get for a LS2 to work and the actual price difference between teh LS2 and the iron. GL guys
John
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To install an LS2 all you need to do is purchase a wiring harness extension kit for the knock sensors and cam position sensor. You will need the LS2 valley cover (no knock sensors there) and LS2 timing cover sensor since the cam position sensor is located in the front cover on the LS2. The knock sensors can be mounted with one on each side of the block (requires taping one of the existing holes on the side of the block). It's really a very simple install.
Brian
Brian
Originally Posted by Spade
Well i got a price quote from TSP for a built LS2 motor for my Camaro. But I am just wondering about the iron to aluminum. Is 88 pounds really worth an extra $300? From what I am told everything is pretty much a direct replacement going from LS1 to LS2. Unless I am mislead?
Trust me when you get to a certain point you would gladly pay 300.00 for 88lbs. I would gladly pay 1000.00 right now to take 88lbs off the front of my car without hacking stuff up..
Originally Posted by kp
Trust me when you get to a certain point you would gladly pay 300.00 for 88lbs. I would gladly pay 1000.00 right now to take 88lbs off the front of my car without hacking stuff up..
Originally Posted by Spade
If you would have to build your engine again would you do a 6L block or stay with the 347? I ultimately want a great street mannered car that I can drive everyday but runs nice at the track when I do go.
More cubic inches is always better for a street car, but ~20 cubic inches on a FI car isnt really worth much. Sure the 4" bore can flow a little better but the bigger the bore the more chance for detonation. That plus I already had all the covers and what not so I just stuck with a LS6 block. Since I had custom pistons made anyhow it wouldnt have cost much more to do an LS2 block but I dont think it would be making that much more power.
If you want some better oomph just cruising around a 402/408 is probably the best way to go but that 4" crank sends the cost up pretty well.
I didnt do an iron block because of the procharger bracket but also the weight. If you add 100lbs for a front mount turbo or blower and another 100lbs for an iron block things start to get heavy.
Originally Posted by kp
More cubic inches is always better for a street car, but ~20 cubic inches on a FI car isnt really worth much. Sure the 4" bore can flow a little better but the bigger the bore the more chance for detonation. That plus I already had all the covers and what not so I just stuck with a LS6 block. Since I had custom pistons made anyhow it wouldnt have cost much more to do an LS2 block but I dont think it would be making that much more power.
If you want some better oomph just cruising around a 402/408 is probably the best way to go but that 4" crank sends the cost up pretty well.
I didnt do an iron block because of the procharger bracket but also the weight. If you add 100lbs for a front mount turbo or blower and another 100lbs for an iron block things start to get heavy.
If you want some better oomph just cruising around a 402/408 is probably the best way to go but that 4" crank sends the cost up pretty well.
I didnt do an iron block because of the procharger bracket but also the weight. If you add 100lbs for a front mount turbo or blower and another 100lbs for an iron block things start to get heavy.
i wish i had known
The only reason I went with an iron block was because of price. The LS2 was not out at the time. I am sticking with the iron block though and I will lose the weight somewhere else.. 3240lbs with an iron block is not so bad in my case..
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
i wish i had known
Originally Posted by kp
As soon as I seen a 6L iron block first thing I thought was its missing one of the alt bracket holes (I had a 414 couple years ago). I would just try it and see what happens, done get too stressed about it
just got some silicone couplers on to finish up a neat job along with some t-clamps.... im also going to try wrapping the hot side of the IC piping with header wrap and see if that helps:shrug: insulation is insulation right
hopefully ill have all my fuel fittings by wednesday... mabey it will be tuned by next weekend
