Talk about a long day at the track..
Originally Posted by kp
Honestly for a street driven car most tracks dont even look, you can probably get away with an 8 second car without a cage at a lot of tracks. It sort of limits your actvities though if you like to race a lot, now i can go run the car anywhere without having to worry about getting asked to slow down or get the boot. No big deal at a local track but if you tow 500 miles, make one pass and get thrown out it kinda sucks.
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by LASTLS1
I hear you. I really need a full cage, and want one for my safety! Then I could run at some better tracks. I would LOVE to run at Rt.66. This winter I will finish the cage. I also want to get my license. Your doing it the right way, smart!
Nice runs in the heat Kev!!! I like seeing your dyno numbers because they are thru a non lockup tranny. It just goes to show how JUST the dyno number doesnt tell the whole story. Adding weight sux....I still wonder how my raceweight ever got UP to 3825 (i'm 200#) How much timing do you pull for the heat 90+ degrees vs say 60-70?
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by cablebandit
Nice runs in the heat Kev!!! I like seeing your dyno numbers because they are thru a non lockup tranny. It just goes to show how JUST the dyno number doesnt tell the whole story. Adding weight sux....I still wonder how my raceweight ever got UP to 3825 (i'm 200#) How much timing do you pull for the heat 90+ degrees vs say 60-70?
Thats why I spent a lot of time getting the 60' down in the heat this year, dont have to beat on the engine any harder at all and the car still runs quick. Cant wait to see what happens when the thing pics up 100hp on a 55 degree evening
If you dont mind sharing, what suspension and wheel and tire combo are you running?? I've go the power to get a nice timeslip but getting it to hook is going to be my problem
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by wicked_95z
If you dont mind sharing, what suspension and wheel and tire combo are you running?? I've go the power to get a nice timeslip but getting it to hook is going to be my problem
Thats about everything..
Thanks...seems like you kept it pretty simple but apparently it works well. I was looking at the CE shocks as an alternative to the DA Koni's but havent heard much about them
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by wicked_95z
Thanks...seems like you kept it pretty simple but apparently it works well. I was looking at the CE shocks as an alternative to the DA Koni's but havent heard much about them
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"-2 pinion angle."
That's the toughest one for me to figure out. I'm at +1 with stock radials. Put on the Bogarts and I'm at -2 without touching anything....pinion angle relative to a horizontal line is a crazy concept.
That's the toughest one for me to figure out. I'm at +1 with stock radials. Put on the Bogarts and I'm at -2 without touching anything....pinion angle relative to a horizontal line is a crazy concept.
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by onfire
"-2 pinion angle."
That's the toughest one for me to figure out. I'm at +1 with stock radials. Put on the Bogarts and I'm at -2 without touching anything....pinion angle relative to a horizontal line is a crazy concept.
That's the toughest one for me to figure out. I'm at +1 with stock radials. Put on the Bogarts and I'm at -2 without touching anything....pinion angle relative to a horizontal line is a crazy concept.
OK I'l clarify, -2 DRIVELINE angle. The car can be on its roof and it still measures the same
All I'm worried about is the CL of the trans and rear being parallel under power to use the least amount of power and cause the least amount of stress. I let the chassis 'experts' argue about how it effects traction relative to the angle of the car http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/
read through this, I dont agree with using the driveshaft method of setting driveline angle that some recommend but for the most part that article is OK. IMO thats why a lot of people tear **** out of the bottom of thier car, they measure off the driveshaft and end up with some funky driveline angles..
Last edited by kp; Aug 27, 2006 at 11:24 AM.
Originally Posted by kp
OK I'l clarify, -2 DRIVELINE angle. The car can be on its roof and it still measures the same All I'm worried about is the CL of the trans and rear being parallel under power to use the least amount of power and cause the least amount of stress. I let the chassis 'experts' argue about how it effects traction relative to the angle of the car
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/
read through this, I dont agree with using the driveshaft method of setting driveline angle that some recommend but for the most part that article is OK. IMO thats why a lot of people tear **** out of the bottom of thier car, they measure off the driveshaft and end up with some funky driveline angles..
All I'm worried about is the CL of the trans and rear being parallel under power to use the least amount of power and cause the least amount of stress. I let the chassis 'experts' argue about how it effects traction relative to the angle of the car http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/
read through this, I dont agree with using the driveshaft method of setting driveline angle that some recommend but for the most part that article is OK. IMO thats why a lot of people tear **** out of the bottom of thier car, they measure off the driveshaft and end up with some funky driveline angles..
THANK YOU!!!!
I tried to say this and got flamed for questioning the gurus. I find it funny that these guys seem to think rear tire height affects how thier suspension is adjusted. If you're going to measure pinion angle like that then your pinion angle doesn't matter.
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by DeltaT
Great times, kp! I'd love to see your car run...
Jim
Jim
Originally Posted by kp
IMO thats why a lot of people tear **** out of the bottom of thier car, they measure off the driveshaft and end up with some funky driveline angles..
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by wicked_95z
What two points due you use to set up your driveline angle??