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The Real Price of Forced Induction

Old 11-17-2018, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JP83
The "Real" price of 1076whp.

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...uilds/colorado

About 6 grand including the truck.
Ive followed all Matts builds, but come on man. The truck looked like ***, had no safety equipment, and never ET'd very well. Making a decent dyno number isn't even half the battle.
Old 11-17-2018, 04:19 PM
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How many passes can you get out of a 370ci before you lift the heads as boost starts getting up there? The "real cost" is the cost of a 6 bolt heads setup if reliability is a concern.
Old 11-17-2018, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7stroker
How many passes can you get out of a 370ci before you lift the heads as boost starts getting up there? The "real cost" is the cost of a 6 bolt heads setup if reliability is a concern.
At what power level? You don't need 6 bolt until you're making 4 digit power.
Old 11-18-2018, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
At what power level? You don't need 6 bolt until you're making 4 digit power.
Figure a 370ci making 1000-1150 hp. With that much boost and 4 bolt heads, isn't it just a matter of time before head lift even if you pay mind to it's torque production and at what RPM it occurs? Safest bet is probably not making peak torque until 6000rpm to ease cylinder pressure at lower RPM's and using some ARP CA625 studs.

Last edited by 5.7stroker; 11-18-2018 at 03:33 PM.
Old 11-18-2018, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7stroker
Figure a 370ci making 1000-1150 hp. With that much boost and 4 bolt heads, isn't it just a matter of time before head lift even if you pay mind to it's torque production and at what RPM it occurs? Safest bet is probably not making peak torque until 6000rpm to ease cylinder pressure at lower RPM's and using some ARP CA625 studs.
Yes like I said, 4 digit power is when I'd move to a 6 bolt and yes moving torque to the right will help. Running the best flowing heads and cam will help to keep the boost number as low as possible.
Old 07-01-2019, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by UberTruck
The guys who are like (big man voice) "oh yaaaa I got like 20k in my **** and its the only way to do it or you're STUPID and if you dont do what I say you're STUPID and if you ask me questions you're STUPID!!!" need to swim to the bottom of a deep body of water and inhale.

Kids, adults, whoever asking you a question are the people who look up to you. God forgive you if you own a business and are passing around that kind of attitude!

I have less than 2000 in my WHOLE setup. Its not done yet, nope. And for those guys who are waiting to pummel my ego, theres nothing left of it. You took it a long time ago with your d-baggery. So eat ****.

But for those of you who are like "I want that turbo, and the power, but dont have the money" just read my parts list. You can do it yourself. You can use the cheap stuff, just dont lean on it real hard or be surprised when it seizes, doesnt work properly or goes out. Replace it with the best stuff you can afford AS it breaks.

Personally I'd rather put it together, get it working, drive it until it breaks and upgrade whatever broke each time rather than Refi my house (which is probably what Mr. Megabucks did) to finance his monster.

To Mr. Cool Megabucks: Awesome job. Keep it up. I look up to you.

To Mr. D-bag Megabucks: E.S.a.D. (figure it out)

To Mr. I'm trying to get mine built: me too, we'll figure it out together

To Mr. "I want, how do I...?" Keep working and figuring it out!

Oh, so far heres my total estimated investment for a DIY truck manifold turbo kit.

Have now:

6.0 Turbo Manifolds (LQ4's installed backwards) --- $45 after shipping
TiAL 38mm knockoff Wastegate ------------------ $40 (craigslist)
HKS Super Sequential BOV w/ merge pipe --------- $80 (craigslist)
LQ4 exh manifold stainless flanges x 2 @ 11 ea ---- $ 22 (H.H. Slayton Machine shop)
on3performance chinese 70mm or 76mm turbo ----- $289 or 349 (on3performance)
2 x 2.5" stainless mandrel bends (U) @ 21 ea ------ $60 (after shipping)
1 x 4" stainless mandrel bend --------------------- $36 (after shipping)
1 x 3' of 4" OD section straight stainless exhaust -- $14 (exhaust shop)
t4 flange ---------------------------------------- $19 (after shipping)
Wastegate flange -------------------------------- $21 (after shipping)
Wastegate 2" blowdown tube (90)----------------- $12 (after shipping)
Oil fittings, line, and hardware -------------------- $62 (forcedinductionsolu tions.com)
FMIC (31"x13"x3" alum)--------------------------- $110
FMIC piping kit (2.5")----------------------------- $75
Turbo Screen (DIY)-------------------------------$9 (lowes. lol)
LQ4 copper gaskets (mani to merge tubes)---------$18
t4 gasket-----------------------------------------$9
Fuel system (Racetronix single pump with harness)--$230 (racetronix.biz)
60# injectors (usually go for 200-250 a set)--------$250
Tune --------------------------------------------$250 (after shipping)

Price before fuel system was like 1100'ish.... price after is in the 1600 range...

I left out a few small things like gauges, and welding supplies, vacuum tubing, and turbo wrap and thats about it.

No water/meth, no boost controller at first, and a cheap turbo.

looking for 480-520rwhp on 6psi

I’m with this guy
turbo-600 (vs racing 80mm billet turbo)
6.0 lq9-600
50mm wastegate-80 (knock off tial)
50mm bov-75 (knock off tial)
hotside-300 (eBay)
map sensor-30
dual 450 walbro-175
6an&8an fuel lines-45
fuel regulator-40
210# injectors-235 (knock off bosch)
ls9 gaskets-100
all piping and coupling-125 (eBay turbo piping universal)

Ive left out little cheap things like fittings, gauges, tuning and welding cuz that’s all that depends on who u go tune it with and weld it with, gauges depends what kind u go with, for me I went with all aem gauges like tru boost controller, fuel gauge, a/f and wideband. Boost controller u can get one for like 40 bucks if u go Manuel, and I’ve bought everything little by little, my own budget build. Not no dam crazy 20k build lol plus mines going on a 04 Silverado 4 door


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