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The Real Price of Forced Induction

 
Old 09-12-2013, 02:03 PM
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anyone doing a gear drive air to water setup plan on $20K.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:17 PM
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I got a cam only ls1 with s475 turbo kit made myself, budget supporting mods to get me by. All mods besides injectors and fuel pumps are nearly maxed out. Including turbo which is the budget one for 650 dollars. Still got 7000 in the build that's doing it all myself. Fast is expensive lol. I put down 755rwhp.
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:23 PM
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If I added everything up I'd have six figures into my car over a period. Damn it. I just can't stand crap or breaking **** so have to do it right and have to pay someone to do everything. The good part is car drives like a stocker with a nice but mild rumble, goes like stink, gets great highway mpg, does everything well and is very reliable. That's why it costs - to get the power and reliability and daily driveability. It is also a family sedan and handles the track better than most sports cars, yet is what we use for family holidays/trips. Great result yes, but the cost - too much to do again anytime soon

Next time I'm just gonna save for a C7 and buy a package. I'm over the custom **** for a while, I'd rather do more travel and invest. AT least good packages are sorted and cheap compared to custom.

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Old 10-30-2013, 09:09 PM
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i have $11000 in my car. shell, wheels, tires, paint, motor, tranny, i mean thats counting every nut and bolt.

i got my L33 for $550
built glide used for $1000
used cam $200
magnafuel pump and injectors are about the only new parts on my car.
s&w 8pt bar for $400
summit seat for $60
used bw s475 $550 shipped

just went [email protected] get some
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by S13LSx View Post
i have $11000 in my car. shell, wheels, tires, paint, motor, tranny, i mean thats counting every nut and bolt.

i got my L33 for $550
built glide used for $1000
used cam $200
magnafuel pump and injectors are about the only new parts on my car.
s&w 8pt bar for $400
summit seat for $60
used bw s475 $550 shipped

just went [email protected] get some
This post is a thread killer....

Go build you a car that makes 950chp and does 0-60mph in 1.26 seconds with 100% stock suspension like it came off the show room in 1995 for $11,000!!!!

That's what you get when you put a L33 LSx-T in a stock Nissan 240sx!! I had $6000 in it running on motor with a 1.80 glide and a brake. then about another $5000 in the turbo setup and tune.

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Old 12-18-2013, 02:00 PM
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So what I've gathered from all of this it is more financially feasible to buy someone elses FI car for 1/4 of what they spent on it? haha

I've been seeing it lately; so-and-so is selling the car with $2x,xxx "invested" in it for $2x,xxx; NICE cars too. I'd gladly pay $20k-$30k for a car with that much in it; assuming it was done correctly.
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:36 PM
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Luckily I have some friends that are cool enough to help me with my turbo 5.3 build or I'd be way over my head in shop costs.

Paid $8k for my Z28
So far everything else has added up to about $18k, but I'm not cheap. Everything is new except for the engine. L33 pulled out with 55k miles.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:26 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by 2002/Black/SS View Post
Big thanks to Josh from LASHWAY MOTORSPORTS for all of his help

Many people ask "I have this much money, can i turbo/SC my car?". And there really isnt any place that they can turn for the help they need. So i have put this together to help others out.
Let me first start by saying i originally figured my build would cost around 7,000-7,500 dollars. Well, in the end it came out to 10,500-11,000 dollars. It suprised me but iam not new to turbocharging and i expected this, so i had the additional funds. Well, I have just finished buying everything that i needed:

THE PARTS:

THE TURBO KIT (or supercharger): The average Kits range from $4500-$6500 and most include the needed things like a BOV, wastegate, Intercooler, turbo, SC head unit and piping. Only Vortech and ATI include fueling parts, but when going 500HP+ i would upgrade these parts anyway. REQUIRED

FUEL PUMP: I went with the Racetronix P&P fuel system, it is easy to install and gives the required amount of fuel. They retail for $265. Another addition to this if you are going for alot of power is a BAP that increases the voltage to the pump and they cost around $250. EDIT* My racetronix pump was no were near enough fuel for the 9psi i currently run, so i upgraded to a twin in-tank walbro system put together by my shop/tuner: Masport Speed Shop REQUIRED

INJECTORS: When it came to injectors i figured i might as well get a big size now instead of upgrading later, which always happens anyway. So i went with 60LB motorons injectors which seem to be very popular and cost $425. REQUIRED

6.0L HEADS: The idea of puting these on your ls1 is that they lower your compression normaly about a full point which allows you to safely boost more. They also flow alittle better, like the LS6 heads. I bought them used and assembled for $300, although i didn't use the valvesprings from them. RECOMMENDED

CAMSHAFT: My original plan was to go with a new or low mileage used Z06/LS6 cam. But i then looked around and found other ones that i liked more and i setteled with the Lingenfelter GT-7. although a cam isnt really needed for 450HP, over 500HP it will definetly help. The cam will range between $150 (used) to $380 (brand new GT-7). RECOMMENDED

VALVE SPRINGS: Because your engine will see serious pressure under boost your stock valvesprings will not have enough pressure to seal against the head, and therefore need to be upgraded to 918s at the minimum. I went with the Patriot Dual Valvespring kit, which are a great deal at $245. REQUIRED

TIMING CHAIN: The stock LS1 chain is pretty weak and with those new valve springs it will se alot more pressure and needs to be upgraded. You can buy a hardened single timing chain (like LS2) or a dual. i bought the rollmaster dual timing chain for $110 REQUIRED

PUSHRODS: Because of the new cam/valve springs the pushrods are another weak link that needs to be upgraded. i went with 7.400" manleys for $130 REQUIRED

OIL PUMP: The stock ls1 pumps were never all that great and even though my stock one made almost 60 psi at idle, u can never have to much oil, so i ordered a ported and blueprinted one from Byunspeed for $160 OPTIONAL

HEAD BOLTS: The heads will see alot of pressure from the turbo and should be upgraded to ARP bolts or studs. They should also be upgraded because you are changing your heads. i got the ARP head bolts for $130 REQUIRED

CLUTCH: The stock clutch has pretty much no chance of holding anything near 500RWHP and should be changed. You can go with weaker clutchs and change them every 5,000 miles or you can go with a very good one (for a price) that can last a very very long time. i went with the Textralia for $975. REQUIRED

GAUGE POD: To keep track of everything going on in your new turbo/SC system you are going to need some gauges and a gauge pod to hold them. you can choose between many ways of mounting the gauges. I got the triple pillar pod from autometer for $55 OPTIONAL

BOOST GAUGE: You will need this to see how much your turbo/SC is boosting while you are driving/racing. Also you can use it to see boost spikes and to tell if there is boost leak etc. You can choose between an electric one or a mechanical one. i got the Autometer mechanical 20psi Cobalt boost gauge for $70, the electrical version is 30psi and $180. HIGHLY RECOMMEDED

FUEL GAUGE: You will need this to make sure you have the right amount of fuel pressure for your engine etc. i got the autometer electric 0-100psi Cobalt gauge for $190 HIGHLY RECOMMEDED

WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR: This in my opinion is very important for many reasons. it will let you constintly moniter your engine A/F even at idle, which can alert you to problems very early on. It is also a great tuning device. they range from 250-500. i got the dynotune one for $265 REQUIRED

BOOST CONTROLLER: A boost controller uses the pressure that is made from your turbo system to control the opening of the wastegate. In turn, this causes the wastgate to stay closed more, thus creating more pressure in your exhaust that then spins the turbo faster and creates more psi (boost pressure). They range from mechanical ones for $70 all the way up to electric ones that can actually control boost spikes, they run up to $500. This is the only thing on the list that i didn't buy.... but i will after i get beat for the first time. OPTIONAL

METHANOL INJECTION: i have just recently done research pertaining to meth injection and the more i hear and read about it, the more i like it. when a meth kit is installed it lowers your IAT up to 40 degrees and makes your gas the equivelent of some say 110+ octane. this allows you to run more boost and be alot safer. here is the basic idea of a meth kit, they are standalone pumps with a bottle/container with the meth/water, when they sense boost they spray the meth relative to boost when its needed. there are also safety systems that can be purchased to insure that if the meth dosent flow (i.e it runs out) the car wont boost and cause damage to the engine. Companys like Snow Performance and Alkycontrol sell these kits, they run from $300-$550. a good safety system is around $100. OPTIONAL

GOOD TUNE: This is important on any car, and the same goes for a FI car. they range from doing it yourself (which isnt to easy) to getting it professionly done for around $450. If you are interested in doing it yourself you have a couple choices, here are a few, HP TUNERS, EFIlive, MAFT PRO and LS1edit REQUIRED

RANDOM PARTS & GASKETS: There are always a bunch of these things you need to buy. Here are a couple, new crank bolt (ARP $30), front crank seal ($23), 6.0L head gaskets ($60), valve spring tool (crane $115), Coolant to refill radiator, oil to do oil change, RVT gasket maker, loctite and a couple specialty tools, like torque wench. pulley puller, long and short sockets, ramps, good floor jack, etc. REQUIRED

And you supercharger people, dont forget about headers and exhaust!


In addition to all this, remember all the installation work was done by me, so that didnt cost anything, if you plan on paying someone just imagine the amount of work, so be prepared to pay. Also none of this includes suspension componets or a rear end, which will most likely not last long with 500RWHP+.
Well i hope this helps some people out, and if its good enough it would be cool if it was a sticky!

2002/black/ss
I'm glad I found this. Here within the next couple of weeks I'm starting a twin turbo build. Now I've seen on here where people say "stock motors last a while", I just don't believe it since the ls1 crank is only rated to 600 hp.

My I deal is to go all forged internals(stock size) with ls6 cam, heads and intake. Heads with 918 springs, granetelli MAF and haven't decide which injectors and pump yet. Ive seen TT kits all day for 1000-1500 are they junk? The forged crank is rated to 1100hp rods and pistons to 1000hp. Any ideas to help? I'd like to get it right the first time.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:14 PM
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My blower kit alone retails for 8500. That's intake up but with no fuel parts! When I'm all said and done I will easily be 15 grand deep into my 4.5 whippled, 408 build.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:36 AM
  #170  
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Would like some advice. I have a GM LSX 376 B15 crate motor. Haven't done anything to it yet but, I'm beginning to think I can't reach my goal with it. I'm shooting for 1200-1400hp. And, from what I've been told, the current setup may not take it. I'm being told it would need to be line honed for studs on the crank and heads, better rods and pistons, dry sump and oil squirters. It's going to be a twin turbo with intercooler in an 87 regal street car and race track. Going to tub it, roll cage etc. It's just the motor I'm concerned about that it may not be dependable.
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:27 AM
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It will take it! Look at the post here on this same engine you may be surprised! I'm running same engine in my build. Not done yet but soon.

Originally Posted by LSnewbie383 View Post
Would like some advice. I have a GM LSX 376 B15 crate motor. Haven't done anything to it yet but, I'm beginning to think I can't reach my goal with it. I'm shooting for 1200-1400hp. And, from what I've been told, the current setup may not take it. I'm being told it would need to be line honed for studs on the crank and heads, better rods and pistons, dry sump and oil squirters. It's going to be a twin turbo with intercooler in an 87 regal street car and race track. Going to tub it, roll cage etc. It's just the motor I'm concerned about that it may not be dependable.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:23 AM
  #172  
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any word on the methanol/water kits? i've heard from some that they actually kill an engine, and from others that they help...
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:04 PM
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Default $$$$$

If your looking at parts like id1000 and lsx intake, turbo smart goods. good clutch and master rear end and all supporting mods. ...well than your looking at a lot more than 11k not to mention tune, turbo blanket , better rad/fans,.. gets expensive fast.. I found that out the hard way.. I'd say if you don't have at least 20k dedicated to you car than don't go boost. .. sure it's possible but im just saying have some money prepared incase you find out you need more supporting mods than you expected.. since I was bit by the turbo bug I've been improving the car every chance I get.. so the money never really stops to be honest. .. is this turbo deal a addiction for anyonelse or just me.?
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ws6turbo View Post
If your looking at parts like id1000 and lsx intake, turbo smart goods. good clutch and master rear end and all supporting mods. ...well than your looking at a lot more than 11k not to mention tune, turbo blanket , better rad/fans,.. gets expensive fast.. I found that out the hard way.. I'd say if you don't have at least 20k dedicated to you car than don't go boost. .. sure it's possible but im just saying have some money prepared incase you find out you need more supporting mods than you expected.. since I was bit by the turbo bug I've been improving the car every chance I get.. so the money never really stops to be honest. .. is this turbo deal a addiction for anyonelse or just me.?
I'm an addict and kit still not installed. Like you I am finding out I need this and then that. But determined. You are not alone.
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by S13LSx View Post
i have $11000 in my car. shell, wheels, tires, paint, motor, tranny, i mean thats counting every nut and bolt.

i got my L33 for $550
built glide used for $1000
used cam $200
magnafuel pump and injectors are about the only new parts on my car.
s&w 8pt bar for $400
summit seat for $60
used bw s475 $550 shipped

just went [email protected] get some
awesome!
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:16 PM
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This is the best info for future sc ls3 in my chevelle
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:45 PM
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Default Airborne

Have a '01 WS6 converted to a 434LSX, F-1 procharged, huge Bell Intercooled, 4L80E with 6 spd kit, QA1, Moser 12 with 3.42 for high speed. Pushing for a sustained 200mph on Michelin P2s to handle the speed.
Has anyone tried to do this? Wondering at what point I need to worry about lifting up. I will have splitters installed before attempting this.
The front will be opened up for the intercooler so thinking of putting vents in the hood to help get rid of air out from under the hood and maybe creating some down force.
The trick...keep the car looking basically stock on the outside.
Any advise will be appreciated.
And the cost, well into the $60K without car. The cost of keeping everything else functional as factory made it.

Last edited by onebad427; 07-03-2016 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:15 PM
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The "Real" price of 1076whp.

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...uilds/colorado

About 6 grand including the truck.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JP83 View Post
The "Real" price of 1076whp.

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...uilds/colorado

About 6 grand including the truck.
you gotta love that guy!! You can't beat that. He's my role model 😜
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:09 AM
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Probably add a precautionary note for those with a 98's.

Oil pump is a must because of bad pumps in 98's - so long ago most have probably forgotten..
LS6 manifold upgrade.
Will have to patchwork a 2 bar tune because of the 98 PCM.
A slew of cracked welds on 98 driveshafts - probably the first to break with added rwhp. Again a TSB long forgotten.
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