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A few rear mount questions (and PCV pics)

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Old 09-05-2006, 03:16 PM
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Default A few rear mount questions (and PCV pics)

Edit: Called around and got a good idea about the 4-5 psi tune.

Just had a few technical Q's. Will 3/8" do fine for the return line. (whats on the sts kits?) Ive got a 1/2" hose right now but my pump has 3/8" in/out so I'd like to just downsize. Wondering if anyone has actually had a problem with undersized return tube.

Also probably a dumb question but, my compressor housing doesnt have a nozzle for hooking the wastegate up. Where do I get my reference from on the turbo?:
Mine
Stock 60 trim:


Also, here is the PCV setup i worked out last night:

Then just use a check valve running from the valve cover to the throttle body? The CV then closes when the intake recieves more pressure than the crankcase. And turbo intake side creates vacuum. How does that look?

Last edited by JAvenger007; 09-08-2006 at 02:50 AM.
Old 09-05-2006, 03:29 PM
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I would just wait to mod the car until you can get a tune. If you are not going to be able to use the power why even install parts? Personally from my experience and watching others, I would never drive an untuned car into any sort of boost.

You could use a ZR1 or similiar vac pump to keep the crankcase under vaccuum if you don't want to run a line all the way to the back of the car for the vac under boost.
Old 09-05-2006, 04:47 PM
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I have already been pulled over for illegal exhaust. I put a turn down off of the open ypipe today, but its barely secure. I cant travel with the car like this, but with the turbo installed its usable. I also dont have the money or time to run the car to the dyno by next monday.

I would never drive an untuned car into any sort of boost.
so my question is could I bleed off all the boost to at least run the car. I have this kit laying here, I can't possibly transport all of it with me in boxes. The most feasible option here is to install this kit, but make the car run like it is N/A temporarily.

took note of the ZR1 pump idea. Ill try to get my hands on one and see how it works.

Last edited by JAvenger007; 09-05-2006 at 04:52 PM.
Old 09-05-2006, 05:15 PM
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You will be okay just running the car normally. Just go light throttle and you will stay out of boost and in vacuum. And by all means, DO NOT BOOST! You will kiss that motor goodby with no tune and a stock fuel system in a second. For best results you will need to get the car professionaly dyno tuned.

Not sure about the PCV set-up. I'm using engine vacuum running the pcv hoses to a catch can then to the vacuum port on the intake manifold with a check valve. When under boost, the crankcase pressure is bled through an oil cap breather. I'm not all thrilled on this method so I'm still looking at ways to make it work better.
Old 09-05-2006, 06:13 PM
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Not sure about the PCV set-up. I'm using engine vacuum running the pcv hoses to a catch can then to the vacuum port on the intake manifold with a check valve. When under boost, the crankcase pressure is bled through an oil cap breather. I'm not all thrilled on this method so I'm still looking at ways to make it work better.
Any pictures? How long have you been running this setup?

I got a 3.63 psi spring for the wastegate. Ill stick with that. Couldn't I also just leave a hole in the charge piping and let the extra boosted air vent to the atmos. This is mainly just to get the car on the highway so that I can transport it down south.
Old 09-05-2006, 06:41 PM
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just install everything and leave the charge pipe disconnected lol...that might work...orrr like u said set the blow off valve to open at all times with any given pressure build up so it bleeds it off into the engine bay..that might work too...whatever u do even if u do run it all complete, do not let it boost into the motor while its untuned, it will grenade..or seriously hurt something...like u said better safe than sorry
Old 09-05-2006, 07:30 PM
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I've been buttoning up loose ends for nearly 5 months now without being tuned into boost. First of all, as I'm sure you got the clue, NEVER run it into boost without being FULLY tuned. Second, I have an E-boost2 boost controller and I set it to not allow the car to get into boost. If i floor it, maybe I'll get up to 1.5 psi but I don't do that, and if it happens I'm paying attention and let off. I've also finished my fuel system and been tuned up to .5 psi so I'm not as worried. Your car is totally driveable everyday without going into boost so don't worry about it. Ask some of the sponsors who tune or listen to the members, people drive their cars hundreds of miles wihtout a tune to get to a tuner. The key is just that they don't step on it and get into boost. Just be patient, and understand how amazing it will be when its done and you've not blown up your engine by getting greedy.
Old 09-05-2006, 07:53 PM
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uh...what program is that to generate a pic like that?
Old 09-05-2006, 07:55 PM
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as you can see...its a little better than mine...


Old 09-05-2006, 07:55 PM
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Second, I have an E-boost2 boost controller and I set it to not allow the car to get into boost.
Im considering adding a manual boost controller (cheapy $20 one from ebay) just to keep the car at 1psi or less. I'll adjust the BOV as well.
I'm not in a hurry to get this car into boost, just get the turbo on and start working out the kinks of the rear mount setup while driving the car safely.

I should be fine revving the car, correct? As my other concern is making sure the turbo functions properly before i spend money on a dyno (if it burns up or malfunctions i'd just get a 67 or gt70).
Any more input? thanks guys.

Last edited by JAvenger007; 09-05-2006 at 08:01 PM.
Old 09-05-2006, 08:00 PM
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uh...what program is that to generate a pic like that?
Its a variety of different 3d apps. I do 3d animation for my ad company, so I just yanked one of the old truck motors that I modeled a year or two ago for a commercial and put the PCV stuff in.
In case your wondering on the price...lets just say the software with a fully commercial licensed machine cost more than my car.
Old 09-05-2006, 08:30 PM
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Your running the risk of messing somthing up. My turbo went out on the dyno and I drove home from arlington with a mock intake system I suggest moutn everything but the turbo and oil pump. You can still use your stock intake as far as the flange for the turbo your car will sound a little funny but you will be cool and not haveing to worry about boosting. Also your putting more strain on the trubo just by bleeding boost allthe time. And you can damage your waste gate by running it like that.
Old 09-05-2006, 08:42 PM
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outlawz not following you here. Just have the exhaust fabbed back up, leave the intake piping mounted in place but dont put the turbo or pump on? My problem with that situation is transporting the turbo, lines, pump, and other misc parts back home with me. I dont have the room.

Can you elaborate on this too, seems like something i should be concerned with:
Also your putting more strain on the trubo just by bleeding boost allthe time. And you can damage your waste gate by running it like that.
thanks for the input. What happened with your turbo on the dyno?
Old 09-06-2006, 04:04 PM
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up top. Any more input? I got a 3.6 psi spring and ill turn it down even more with a boost controller. Am I good to go?
Old 09-06-2006, 04:32 PM
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yea. just be sure you have a boost gauge hooked up and watch it. Your car can rev just fine to an extent. Boost isn't directly variant on revs alone, its load on the turbo. Just drive it carefully, don't step on it hard, have a boost gauge and watch it, and when its done take it to the dyno.
Old 09-08-2006, 02:49 AM
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ttt with some new questions. Namely need to know that wastegate reference hookup



Quick Reply: A few rear mount questions (and PCV pics)



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