Howdy all,

I am starting to lay out a plan for supercharging my car. I've got some questions that I'd like some additional info on, if you guys would be willing.

Before I list out the questions, the car is a stock 346 bottom end with stock heads. I've got a TR230/236 cam in it right now with a full exhaust and cutouts (for track use only, of course). I want to get the SC kit first, and then, after saving some more money, get a forged 408 or bigger with better flowing heads. The cam can be replaced at that point as well. I'm hoping to get around 700 RWHP before it's all said and done. This is a street/strip car and not my daily driver, so I'm willing to get fairly crazy with it if need be.

So, here are my questions...

1) Are there any roots or twin screw SCs that will fit on the F-bodies? I'm guessing not, but I thought I'd ask. I would only be willing to do minor modifications. I don't want a big hole in my dash, but I might do a cowl hood if it was necessary.
2) I was looking at the specs on the P-1SC and D-1SC, and they appear to be fairly limiting on HP. The D-1SC claims that the maximum supercharged HP is 925. After figuring in drivetrain loss and the tendancy for marketers to fudge the numbers, that doesn't look too good for my 700HP goal. Are there any D-1SC cars out there putting down 700+HP?
3) Can you put any of the bigger ATI SC's on F-bodies? It looks like the F1 is pretty similar to the others in terms of size but is capable of putting out more power.
4) Is there any reason to consider a Vortec SC over ATI? It sounds like the air-to-water cooling is inferior for auto applications and works better for boating.
5) Any other insites or suggestions besides "go turbo?" (I just don't like turbos for some reason... I guess I associate them with imports subconsciously.)


Thanks in advance!

 

Are there any roots or twin screw SCs that will fit on the F-bodies? I'm guessing not, but I thought I'd ask. I would only be willing to do minor modifications. I don't want a big hole in my dash, but I might do a cowl hood if it was necessary.

No, not without cutting out the cowl.

I was looking at the specs on the P-1SC and D-1SC, and they appear to be fairly limiting on HP. The D-1SC claims that the maximum supercharged HP is 925. After figuring in drivetrain loss and the tendancy for marketers to fudge the numbers, that doesn't look too good for my 700HP goal. Are there any D-1SC cars out there putting down 700+HP?

We have gone over 700 rwhp with the D-1SC on 346 ci engines with forged rods and pistons. Here is a link to several.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=27
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=40

Can you put any of the bigger ATI SC's on F-bodies? It looks like the F1 is pretty similar to the others in terms of size but is capable of putting out more power.

Yes, the F1 fits if you move the bottom of the radiator forward. I recommend the F1 for cubic inch engines over 400 ci.

Is there any reason to consider a Vortec SC over ATI? It sounds like the air-to-water cooling is inferior for auto applications and works better for boating.

No, there is not. You are correct, once the water gets hot, it stays hot.

Any other insites or suggestions besides "go turbo?" (I just don't like turbos for some reason... I guess I associate them with imports subconsciously.)

Check out my website! lol Bob

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...php?service=66
Check this list out, it may help answer some questions.

 

Thanks, Bob. I've found a lot of your posts to be quite helpful already.

Can you provide any more info on what's involved with moving the bottom of the radiator forward? Also, can you get the F1 in a kit like the D-1SC?

 

Thanks, I try. If you lose the a.c. condensor, the radiator can move into the condensor location. If the a.c. is to be kept, the lower radiator/condensor sheetmetal to frame bracket needs to be relocated forward.

With moving the radiator forward, the F1 will fit using the stock brackets. Bob

 

Will the D-1SC fit without moving the radiator forward?

Can you get the F1 with the kit, or do you have to buy the D-1SC kit and then buy the F1?

 

Add aftermarket head studs and a customized fuel system to your ATI tuner kit to hit 700rwhp.

 

Yeah, I fully plan on both of those. I'm going to get the SC kit first and run it on my stock motor putting down hopefully in the realm of 550 RWHP and then build a 408 (or bigger) for the SC and put down 700 or more. Those are my goals, anyway.

 

Yes the D-1SC fits right in without moving the radiator. The F1 can be substituted for the D-1SC when the initial order is placed. Bob

 

Someone asked: If air to water is inferior for cooling then why do all the fastest car in nmca and nmra all run air to water cooling.

All the fastest drag cars in the world use air to water. water is superior than air to air. remember when your car aint moving your iat's spike up.

Very true, if you have a means to cool the air to water intercoolers in between rounds, then the air to water intercoolers are going to keep the inlet air temps lower than an air to air intercooler.
When we run a Ford Lightning or an '03-'04 Cobra on my dyno, we lose 50 rwhp after the first run. Repeated runs with an ATI ProCharger with the air to air intercoolers don't drop more than 18 rwhp. Bob

From ATI
Air vs Water
Accessible Technologies manufactures both air-to-air and air-to-water intercooler systems, and the guidelines for their usage are fairly straightforward.

For automotive street applications, air-to-air technology is easy to install, highly effective, extremely reliable since it has no moving parts, and requires no maintenance. Air-to-water intercooler systems, on the other hand, are much more difficult to install as they contain an intercooler, a separate radiator to cool the water, a water tank, and a pump. But probably the biggest drawback to air-to-water on the street is that this technology requires the addition of ice to match the efficiency of air-to-air technology. Additionally, the requirement of ice and the possibility of pump failure or leakage means that air-to-water is also inherently less reliable.

For race-only applications, air-to-water works well since the need to add ice at the track prior to each run is not a big drawback. The other issues are the same as listed above for street applications, and efficiency will be comparable with the use of ice.

For marine applications, air-to-water is the preferred technology, for three primary reasons. First, the installation of a pump and radiator are no longer required (the lake or ocean is the radiator, and boats already have a water pickup/pump). Second, ice is not required, given the availability of massive amounts of cool lake or ocean water into which heat can be transferred. And finally, since boat engines are typically situated in the rear rather than in the front (like most automobiles), it would be very difficult to find adequate airflow for an air-to-air intercooler in the back of the boat.

 

I have some more questions now...

1) Are there any issues with engines overheating due to the addition of the intercooler? Does this prevent the radiator from working efficiently enough?
2) Does anyone have an installation guide for a D-1SC kit? I think it would answer a lot of my other questions.

 

T T T