Installed Ling. MAF and 60lb injectors
Originally Posted by Louis
There is more to it than that. I spent 3 days strait, almost 40 hours on the dyno with it. It makes the same power as a NA SD tune with out the driveability issues related to a MAF.
Yes the PCM is limited, but its 4" in Diameter. The Measured Hz went down by a significant amount, thus raising the roof, however not totally removing the handicap of the MAF.
Yes the PCM is limited, but its 4" in Diameter. The Measured Hz went down by a significant amount, thus raising the roof, however not totally removing the handicap of the MAF.
the Right way to do this for you would be to partern up with HPT or EFI guys, and sell your big MAF, alongside with a custom OS extension where every cell for MAF calibration would be extended 2 bits, which would give you a limit of 2048g/sec, which is more than 99.9% on this border needs (more than a 408 on 40+psi). They've extended the VE table, why not extend MAF?
Originally Posted by onfire
There is no fine tuning above 512g/s....just RPM vs PE....and it better be conservative or pop goes the weasel.
Its great for Big Inch NA cars that are never worked on (like vettes) and mild FI cars where that ceiling is never reached. There is still nothing like a SD 3 bar, this is just another avenue 
Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
exactly right. by being conservative you're just competely missing the potential--what's the point then, if there's alternatives that dont have this problem? not only that but it's dangerous too. what if temp/altitude/pressure changes enough that you build more boost at the same rpm as before, but because you're not accounting for map (cause it's maxed out) you dont give it enough fuel? i spent a lot of time working on getting MAF useful back in the days (2yrs ago) when everyone was tossing them into the garbage as 'uncalibratable', and it has it uses, but FI is just not one of them.
You don't have to have 0.1 AF control resolution in a FI car....it would be nice...but so would $1,000,000.
If you max out the turbo's, and tune on a cool day you're good to go as long as you know what you're doing. I fine tune with fuel pressure only on cooler/hotter temps...works like a charm.
Definitely not the BEST, SAFE way to do it, but it works at 700rwhp and drives/idles like a pure stock fbod until BOOST.
sorry to interrupt this thread but it's the only one i can find about the maf. my car hesitates at part throttle. wot seems fine. i unplugged the maf and it runs like a stock car. plug it back in and it runs like ****. swapped it out with another maf and same thing. i also didn't pop any codes when i had it unplugged. the maf is stock by the way. does that mean it's maxing out? should i find a tuner that knows what he's doing or just go SD?
i would like to figure out the problem before i take it and get it tuned again because i've already spent thousands on tunes. my buddy is waiting on efi live version 2 so thats why i havent bought any yet. have you ever heard of this happening with another car? anyone know what this might mean before i take to it ecs. not a big fan of cartek. thanks for helping guys.
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
....the Right way to do this for you would be to partern up with HPT or EFI guys, and sell your big MAF, alongside with a custom OS extension where every cell for MAF calibration would be extended 2 bits, which would give you a limit of 2048g/sec, which is more than 99.9% on this border needs (more than a 408 on 40+psi). They've extended the VE table, why not extend MAF?
Like "onfire" alluded to, lots of us tune these ourselves, and HP is a good tool! But when you are beyond the metrology of the car, you're doing it blind & taking risks, so the smart guys end up NOT getting all the HP they probably could.
I view SD tuning as a bandaid. If you have a lot of time, $ for dyno time, and knowledge, you might make it better, but it still won't be "right". And you usually end up plugging the MAF back in to make it driveable in town.
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
I view SD tuning as a bandaid. If you have a lot of time, $ for dyno time, and knowledge, you might make it better, but it still won't be "right". And you usually end up plugging the MAF back in to make it driveable in town.
and from paractice, there were few cars that i could not figure out how to get them going well in MAF, but ran smooth in SD. my own car even, in SD runs perfect, but with MAF on, it runs well, but the moment you come to a stop, all trims go -12 rich. to me, SD can account for more situations, it's more descriptive, and as such, it is more flexible. I've been doing a lot of research lately on SD, so if you'd like more info, let's not muddy up this thread anymore, just PM me or something
