Argggh, my car is eating belts
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Argggh, my car is eating belts
Well, my car has eaten 2 belts in 2 days now and I am looking for some ideas. Since I swapped back to a stock crank pulley my serpentine belts are biting the dust at a rapid pace. They appeard to somehow get pushed up onto the front lip of the power steering pulley, which then proceeds to effeciently slice 1 rib off. The first one I thought was due to the belt being a little too long and having very little tension on it.
Well tonight belt #2 died, and it was the correct length. I am not sure what is going on. Comparing my crank pulley to the PS pulley it appears the crank pulley is 1/16" farther rearward (ie the PS pulley is 1/16" farther towards the)front of the car). Is that enough to be destroying my belts? The other thing is that I did not have this issue with the asp underdrive pulley that was on there.
Well tonight belt #2 died, and it was the correct length. I am not sure what is going on. Comparing my crank pulley to the PS pulley it appears the crank pulley is 1/16" farther rearward (ie the PS pulley is 1/16" farther towards the)front of the car). Is that enough to be destroying my belts? The other thing is that I did not have this issue with the asp underdrive pulley that was on there.
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That 1/16" is about the same as 1 rib on the belt. To answer your question, Yes that is enough. It's hard to tell acuratley by your pics but it seems that in the 4th pic that your crank pulley is the culprit. It's too far back. Look at the marks on your WP pulley and line them up with the groove in your PS pulley to see how far off it is. If all you changed was the crank pulley then it's a given there lies your problem.
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OK, if the crank pulley is the culprit got any recommendations for a fix? New crank pulley?
I am just baffled that if the crank pulley is too far rearward that the belt will jump forward on the PS pulley. I would expect the opposite to happen.
I am just baffled that if the crank pulley is too far rearward that the belt will jump forward on the PS pulley. I would expect the opposite to happen.
Last edited by bowtieman81; 09-19-2006 at 10:58 PM.
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Originally Posted by WestSide
Like I said in the previous thread, I have that problem as well as a few others here. I've ran with the 5rib for over 1000 miles, so far so good.
Did not know you had that problem, just knew you had a squealin issue. By the way, a new belt cured my squealing FWIW.
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#9
how well is your altinator pully lined up?????
i know on my tti kit the bracket was a good bit back had to add soem washers behind it to make ity prefectly stright on..
i know on my tti kit the bracket was a good bit back had to add soem washers behind it to make ity prefectly stright on..
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I changed pulleys because I was having a fuel pressure drop, and I was worried about overheating the engine. So back on with the stock pulley.
I installed the pulley per GM instructions. They tell you to install with a used bolt, torque to 240 ftlb and check to see if the pulley falls in a certain distance off the crank. That distance is 2-5mm if I remember right, and mine was right in the range. Then you put the new bolt in and do the torque/turn. So, I am thinking the crank pulley is in the right spot.
My alternator is lined up well with the tensioner pulley, but both of them appear to be about 1/16"-1/8" too far forward compared to the crank pulley. But, there is no way to move them back. Plus, I have not moved the alternator/tensioner since the ASP pulley came off.
I guess I either have the crank pulley in the wrong spot, or maybe my tensioner is not doing the job. Sure seems that my crank pulley is located correctly, and I would think that if the tensioner was not good enough I would have seen this belt problem with the asp pulley too.
I installed the pulley per GM instructions. They tell you to install with a used bolt, torque to 240 ftlb and check to see if the pulley falls in a certain distance off the crank. That distance is 2-5mm if I remember right, and mine was right in the range. Then you put the new bolt in and do the torque/turn. So, I am thinking the crank pulley is in the right spot.
My alternator is lined up well with the tensioner pulley, but both of them appear to be about 1/16"-1/8" too far forward compared to the crank pulley. But, there is no way to move them back. Plus, I have not moved the alternator/tensioner since the ASP pulley came off.
I guess I either have the crank pulley in the wrong spot, or maybe my tensioner is not doing the job. Sure seems that my crank pulley is located correctly, and I would think that if the tensioner was not good enough I would have seen this belt problem with the asp pulley too.
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you have the tti alternator relocation bracket right?
id just try and line all your pulleys upto the same level and see if that works, as others stated its probably the crank pulley thats the culprit. try that first, then work on shiming the others if taht one cant get to the right adjestment.
id just try and line all your pulleys upto the same level and see if that works, as others stated its probably the crank pulley thats the culprit. try that first, then work on shiming the others if taht one cant get to the right adjestment.
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OK, I guess I will put a pulling tool on the crank pulley and move it forward so it lines up with the PS pulley and see what that does.
I don't think there is anything I can do to move the alternator rearward, it is in the design of the bracket. It is supposed to be the TTi alternator bracket, but who knows for sure.
I don't think there is anything I can do to move the alternator rearward, it is in the design of the bracket. It is supposed to be the TTi alternator bracket, but who knows for sure.
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Originally Posted by bowtieman81
Did not know you had that problem, just knew you had a squealin issue. By the way, a new belt cured my squealing FWIW.
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
Won't you run into the same problem once you torque down the crank bolt?
The only reason I can think of that the UD pulley worked is because it is smaller and spins the stuff slower. Maybe that fact was enough to stop the belt from jumping off.
Westside, does your belt normally jump off the front or back of the PS pulley?
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Again it's hard to tell by the pic but it sure looks like that crank pulley is made for a 7 rib belt. Your PS pulley looks like a 6 rib belt. Is this your original crank pulley or did it come with the underdrive pulley and you bought this one in order to go back stock? Might sound silly but it looks like it has an extra rib on it.
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Originally Posted by bowtieman81
Westside, does your belt normally jump off the front or back of the PS pulley?
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Bird of prey, it is a 6 rib pulley; count the grooves in the pulley.
Also, FWIW this stock pulley is the same one I used when I was naturally aspirated. Revved to 6600 and never had any belt issues.
Also, FWIW this stock pulley is the same one I used when I was naturally aspirated. Revved to 6600 and never had any belt issues.
#20
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Might want to look into a high flanged idler pulley, we used to use those five years ago when belts would walk off.
I currently run a manual tensioner with my new setup. I ran the same kind of thing with the blower setup too.
I currently run a manual tensioner with my new setup. I ran the same kind of thing with the blower setup too.